Frame connector question

[truckinman466]

  I just ordered a U S. Car tool frame connector set. Can I welding these in while my car is on the rotisserie?

[jimynick]

I did. They take a bit of fooling around with to fit, but it's doable and much easier than trying it when the cars on jackstands, I can tell you! 

[70 Challenger Lover]

I got a set for my car as well. According to their instructions, they advise the car should be level and loaded with weight. Kinda hard to do without a lift though. What I plan to do when I'm ready is support the car up nice and high (and ultra secured) and try it on my back. Probably gonna be a miserable job but I really want them right. I have a buddy who plans to build a shop soon and install a lift. I'm crossing my fingers it's ready when I am.

You might be able to do it without the car loaded down with an engine and suspension but I'd really be afraid of doing it on a rotisserie for fear of the car twisting or bowing slightly and me locking that in with frame stiffeners. Especially these since they lock the floor down as well.

[anlauto]

Why do you guys feel these things are necessary ? Are you putting huge torque engines in your cars or plan on doing a lot of drag racing with slicks ? I don't get it ?

[Chryco Psycho]

 
Hmmm 50 year old stressed chassis , better tire tech than these cars were ever designed for , Much better power output from virtually engine built today .
Seems like a no brainer to me unless it is a 100 point resto

[Brads70]

If you don't the whole car becomes a torsion bar. 

[70 Challenger Lover]

I'm doing the whole kit, not just the frame connectors. The company has a video showing the benefit of the braces for the inner fender wall to cowl. The braces reduce the front end twist dramatically. Considering these older cars corner like pigs, it was an easy decision for a car that wasn't highly valuable and collectible.

As far as the torque boxes, the factory added them on hemi cars so why not put them on my car which will see the same kind of power with a different cam and other minor modifications?

The frame fails might be overkill but I figure why not just do the whole kit and see how it feels.

On my R/T, which has meaningful collector value compared to the non R/T, I wouldn't alter it like this.

I once thought the same way as you though. I appreciated originality so much that I just couldn't think of changing anything. I even used the original grind camshafts. Now I'm trying to find a halfway point where it looks mostly original but performs a bit better.

[RUNCHARGER]

What's all that bracing add for weight? I am guessing around 100lbs for all the steel and mig wire?

[Brads70]

What's all that bracing add for weight? I am guessing around 100lbs for all the steel and mig wire?

I never measured but I'd guess half that at best, maybe 50lbs? But I used 1x2 square tubing for the sfc. I have added  the sfc, torque boxes, US Cartool cowl braces and made my own " monte carlo" bar
made a huge difference to the car. I can jack up at the rear frame rail or at the front torsion bar crossmember and the whole side of the car comes up at once. Bigger torsion bars are now more effective as the whole chassis is not taking the flex. 

[Slotts]

Hey Brad,

  Is it possible to get a stiff drink at the Torsion Bar? 

Jim

[jimynick]

Hey Brad,

  Is it possible to get a stiff drink at the Torsion Bar? 

Jim

It is Jim, but you have to be careful you don't get twisted! 

[dodj]

Why do you guys feel these things are necessary ? Are you putting huge torque engines in your cars or plan on doing a lot of drag racing with slicks ? I don't get it ?

A friend of mine put a 383 in his '73 'cuda. M/T street tires. Lumpy cam 383 - don't remember how 'built' it was. We were like 19, 20 years old so it was done for cheap. Anyway, he let 'r' go late one night after the bars closed, and his doors never closed right again. It doesn't take a lot of engine to twist these cars.
You can really tell the difference driving an ebody that has been reinforced when compared to a stock configuration one.
Plus the connectors make them squeak a lot less.

To the OP, I hear they take a lot of fitting before you are set to weld, but they are better than the ones that just bolt on front and rear.

[HP2]

I got a set for my car as well. According to their instructions, they advise the car should be level and loaded with weight. Kinda hard to do without a lift though. What I plan to do when I'm ready is support the car up nice and high (and ultra secured) and try it on my back. Probably gonna be a miserable job but I really want them right. I have a buddy who plans to build a shop soon and install a lift. I'm crossing my fingers it's ready when I am.

You might be able to do it without the car loaded down with an engine and suspension but I'd really be afraid of doing it on a rotisserie for fear of the car twisting or bowing slightly and me locking that in with frame stiffeners. Especially these since they lock the floor down as well.

IMO, two schools of thought here...if your car is apart and going through the whole restoration process, you can install these kits and then realign panels and pieces to fit properly. If you car is together, you want to install the kits with a simulated load it sees on the road so you DO NOT alter panel fit and alignment and create problems with doors closing, windows not sealing, etc.

Competition cars are built on a frame jig to ensure they are level, square and plumb. The more effort you  put into getting the uni-body into this state, then the better the end results may be. Will everyone be able to notice the minute differences between a jigged caar and one with just reinforcment, probably not. A solid car is a solid car, and even if some dimensions are out a small percentage, they can usually be adjusted for with other components to eliminate the difference.

Why do you guys feel these things are necessary ? Are you putting huge torque engines in your cars or plan on doing a lot of drag racing with slicks ? I don't get it ?

Well, that's the obvious reason, but it actually is much broader than that. If the uni-body flexes, it is an active participant in the suspension equation, and a highly unpredictable one at that. Shoring up this flex allows the suspension to better accomplish its job, which often results in ride improvements, even if larger rate are not utilized. Additional benefits to this work is that panels gaps will hold more consistently over time. Reduced flex means windows seals will not be compromised which will help keep water and noise out of the  passenger compartment. There also is usually a reduction in squeaks and rattles that come along with it as well because the body isn't moving around and changing assembly tolerances.

[Jocigar]

Just a friendly reminder to slot out for the e-brake when you install.

[YellowThumper]

If your car remains mostly assembled. You can raise it on all fours. Fit and then partially weld in the pieces. Then finish weld once it is torn down and you have better access. The added benefit of better access is cleaner welding that requires less cleanup after.