HELP! Sheet Metal Repair Advice Needed

[Deezel]

I did an AMD roof skin years ago and I was amazed it fit like a glove. No extra fitting just set it on and welded it up. This was 15 years ago so not sure if anything has changed.

I just had one put on my 73 and the bodyshop said the same thing, it fit like a glove.

Their deck lids are another story....

[dodj]

Must have been done by the same guy that worked on mine.

That guy worked all over the USA and Canada...

[dodj]

@70_440-6Cuda
If it were me I'd go the replacement route.

[ec_co]

Must have been done by the same guy that worked on mine.

That guy worked all over the USA and Canada...

all over the world

[70_440-6Cuda]

HAHAH!  That's funny - I needed that one!

T @tparker can you share a bit more about the rain gutters?  I want to discuss with the fabricator - I am sure he knows, but want to make sure to discuss just in case

[B5fourspeed]

I would cut out most of the bad metal and have the car sand blasted and epoxy primed just to find out how bad the rust is.

[tparker]

I ripped everything apart and then tried to figure out how it all goes back together. If recall right, there was the roof and two drip rail components that stack on top of each other. It wasn't clear how it all worked. I guessed to what looked the best and I think I got it correct. If I recall correctly the two rain gutter pieces stack on top of each other and go under the roof top. I could be mis-remembering some of this. I will look to see if I have a pic. Not sure if I have one from this angle. The key thing, is to either have a reference vehicle, or take some pics. 

These are the pics I have. Lots on the tear down but not much for what would be useful to you. In one you can get a sense of how many spot welds need to be drilled out. Also you can see the layers. The roof, the gutter, then the roof structure. The next one shows the roof structure and if you look real carefully you can see just make out part of the gutter still attached to the roof. It's hard too see. Then I just had to post the one of me. I spent a LOT of time drilling out the spot welds. Again, get a good cutter, not a cheap one. Theyy work better and last longer

[Mopar5]

I did an AMD roof skin years ago and I was amazed it fit like a glove. No extra fitting just set it on and welded it up. This was 15 years ago so not sure if anything has changed.

I agree every panel I have gotten from AMD has been great. With the exception of 1 time I got a trunk panel the was sheared to short, which AMD replaced with a good one.

[70_440-6Cuda]

I would cut out most of the bad metal and have the car sand blasted and epoxy primed just to find out how bad the rust is.

There isnt much left to sandblast!

Everything is stripped or visible at this point.  Everything from the cowl forward has been addressed, and everything from the back of the doors back.  The onmly thing unknown is door skins, but I will leave those until later - I don't want to know!

As for AMD, I will keep everyone posted on what panels I used and how it all goes, and put up some pictures.  The only thing is I was NOT impressed with the front fenders - they were super thin in comparison to the originals; even the weight difference was way noticeable, but I wonder if undercoating makes that much difference?

I spent SO much time sourcing all original sheet metal for the front clip - fenders, hood, header panel, valence, grille, valence insert etc etc because I thought the car would end up all Mopar sheet metal with the exception of the trunk floor - so much for that!  well, at this point I suppose I just need to get to a point where I have SOMETHING to put together

[70_440-6Cuda]

Some small progress....

[larry4406]

HAHAH!  That's funny - I needed that one!

T @tparker can you share a bit more about the rain gutters?  I want to discuss with the fabricator - I am sure he knows, but want to make sure to discuss just in case

Is this link helpful?
https://forum.e-bodies.org/body-shop/5/question-on-drip-rail-alignment/26545/;topicseen

[torredcuda]

That's a mess, new roof skin is the way to go. Mine was fine until the sandblaster warped the crap out of it with his firehouse size blaster after I explicitly told him NOT TO! I had to find a used one which was double the work as new ones were not available back then.

[340Challman]

Wow! Whoever mounted your shocks doesn't know much about suspension geometry. At that angle I'd be surprised if you got even 1" of compression in the shock from airborne to fully bottomed out. 
I'm assuming you are going back to factory shock mounting location. Never cease to be amazed at the things people do to our beloved cars. On my car, someone obviously couldn't make up their mind where they wanted the mirrors mounted. there were four different locations including on the fenders. Crazy!

[7E-Bodies]

Just now got home and catching up here. I'll address the quarter where it meets the roof skin since you've got further discovery to perform on the roof. As a perfectionist that has done 4 e body quarter panels (and not the type that leaves a chunk of the old quarter under the roof joint    ). I HATE that and would only do that on a convertible where I was cutting a hard top quarter to suffice. I have slid all 4 of my quarter installs up under the roof skin. Don't let anyone tell you that that can't be done. Also, don't be afraid of lead jointing the roof to the quarter instead of using filler. No more tough that sweating copper plumbing. I once replaced a B pillar from AMD that @MoparDave got for me and it fit like a glove so don't worry about those either.