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What causes orange peel finish in painting?

Started by 70 Challenger Lover, September 19, 2019, 08:20:20 PM

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Rich G.

Ahh that fine line between orange peel and runs! Hell I'm still trying to figure out what air pressure to set the regulator at when they all say 5psi at the cap and no way to check that without a cap gauge that nobody has! LOL

Cuda Cody

More paint (or clear) = more orange peel. But it also gives you more material to cut and buff.   :bigthumb:  If you cut and buff to soon it will pinch up on you later.  Wait at least 1 month and I prefer much longer before I cut and buff.   :alan2cents:

js27

If your looking for an original finish then you want Orange Peel. That is how Mopars came form the factory.  If you look at any original paint car that hasn't been buffed to the limits you will see plenty of orange peel. Then again if you want a nice smooth finish--Cut and Buff.
JS27


70 Challenger Lover

Just looking to improve my technique in the event I try and paint a car again down the road.

70 Challenger Lover

Here's a closeup of the worst area. Hopefully the lower resolution still shows some detail. I'm still happy with it overall though. Just wanting to learn for future projects. I painted my Vette a few years back and the clear had this level of orange peel. I was able to cut and buff it though it was a lot of extra work. Looking back, I should have left the Vette alone but it was all a learning experience.

RUNCHARGER

You're doing great. I understand trying to lay it down like glass though. This was my first paint job 28 years ago. I taught myself with no one around and it was single stage and it was metallic oh and it was just a Hemi GTX. I sure learned a lot on that one.
Sheldon

chargerdon

Paint quality, and proper blocking before putting on the color and clear make all the difference.  Equipment also can make a difference.  I tried painting my 66 Charger myself, in my garage, using cheap Kirker brand paint.   It looked like 80 grit sandpaper!   

Had to sand it all off, and start over.   This time brought it to a professional...   He used BASF expensive paint, and block sanded the "sealer coat" of primer with 600 grit paper...like glass..   Very, very little orange peel, tho a few runs to fix...   However, it had a different problem... it shrank, enough so that around on the Charger that had a lot of heavy curves like on the door mirrors both sides when it shrank it lifted at the bottom..  Since then over years, a few more small lifts have occured.  Not happy. 

On my 74 Challenger, used a professional painter that had me block the PPG 2K primer with 500 grit paper.   Then he did the color and clear coats.   Kept the car for 2 weeks and then did some cut and buff where needed.   Beautiful glass like finish.   However, that's when i learned that the quality of the paint makes a huge difference...the GOOD STUFF (he used Sherwin Williams, best paint which i think is made by PPG) flows much much better than cheap paint...the better the flow the less likely orange peel.  The flow is another reason to do a good job blocking the primer with 500-600 grit paper.   

Before having him paint the entire car, he gave me some of the paint that he bought for the car, and i used it to shoot the door jams, under hood, under rear deck, and the engine compartment.   All came out great with no or very little orange peel.   I did have some dirt contamination but i just ignored it.   (Difference from in garage, vs in professional paint booth).  I used the el cheapo paint gun from Harbour Freight.   Biggest differences between good guns, and the El CHeapo is that the El CHeapo comes with one non-changeable tip.   Also, they tend to deteriorate when you clean them...but..for $9.95 use it once or twice and throw away.   


70 Challenger Lover

A few years ago, I tried my very first paint job on my 64 Vette. I studied everything, watched videos, talked with pros., used decent paint, etc. The base came out flawless but the clear was a real mess. Lots of orange peel and lots of runs. It took me weeks to cut and buff it afterward. And of course I broke through at spots. It was a real bummer. Looking back, I wish I had just left the orange peel and runs.

I would still like to try painting another car but if I do, I'm going to do two things. Buy one of those blow up paint booths, and hire a pro to advise me while I paint. I know of a couple guys who will come to your house and squirt a car for a couple hundred bucks using your materials, tools, garage, etc. I would simply have them help mix, set up gun, watch and point out flaws in technique, that sort of thing. Having some on site professional advice and a helper mixing would definitely be worth a couple hundred bucks.