Painting the underside

[nsmall]

But wait  I still have more questions

I have other questions that are unanswered....

IS DP74LF more expensive vs black?

Will DP74LF be easier to keep clean vs black primer? 

As for the wheel wells, Not sure what to do.  Alan makes a good point of it wont take long for undercoating to look like crap so should I have the entire wheel well area where you can see behind the wheels painted body color and hope it doesnt get all dinged up and scratched?  Im assuming there will be left over paint that I could use to freshen it up down the road.

As for the fenders and quarters I am assuming its a good idea to use undercoating on the INSIDE of them (by inside I mean inside the of the panel) to prevent rocks for messing up my new paint job?

Someone suggested using a "stimulate in the primer"...Would that help the primer last longer?

Should I ask the media blaster coat the underside with at least two coats of PPG primer (but add a stimulate?) for the underside of the car to increase my chances of the underside looking decent down the road?   

Thanks!!!!

[Cuda Cody]

If you want to put clear over the primer it should work fine.  It really doesn't matter what color primer you use as the car is going to be sand, worked, primed and sealed many times.  But lets not get distracted by the painting of the car and leave that to your painter.  He'll know what to do.  Lets just focus on the underside right now....

So you're leaning towards putting it in epoxy primer and then putting a clear over.  Okay, good.  Lets think about this.  We know that the color of primer you pick is pretty much up to you.  It's all going to work.  I like the red if you plan to paint over it as it's kinda the same color shade as the orange and will be easy to cover in 1 or 2 coats.  But you're not going to paint the underside, so how about this idea....  use the gray epoxy to spray the whole car when it's done being blasted.  Then use a good 2 part rattle car clear for the bottom.  And when you painter paints the car and gets a little over spray on the bottom it will look somewhat like a factory paint job!     Kinda the best of what you are looking for.  Keeps the cost down and has a factory look.

As for rattle car clears, you'll be better off using a 2 part rattle can.  That way you get really good strong clear out of a rattle can.  They make it in gloss, semi gloss and flat.  So take you pick....

https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY

For the record, I think it is cool when can share our opinions and disagree with each other.  Nothing wrong with that.  As long as we aren't being rude, its great.

I am not hung up on OE, I am brand new to lets call it "refreshing the car" I'm the liberty guy, not restoring to original guy.

I am trying to make the best decisions and at times I probably overthink my work.  That being said, I need some advice...

Cuda Cody said..."Clear and Single stage paint are about the same price, so just paint it with a single stage paint.  You have a set period of "open" time that the primer and paint will bond with a chemical reaction (about 3 to 7 days after the epoxy has been applied, depending on the Epoxy).  After that time you will need to sand / scuff the epoxy with 320 or red scotch brite to get a good bite.  So talk with your painted ahead of time and have your plan worked out."

Assuming I dont want to spray bed liner or another type of undercoating over the DP74LF, can I just coat it with a few layers of clear?  I dont want the cars body color underneath, but I want to protect the primer if over time the primer will fall off/deteriorate.

When I say clear, can I get it in a rattle can?  I'm thinking I can do this before I send the car off to paint.   Im thinking whatever overspray hits the underside that is covered with DP74LF and the clear will be okay with me.

As for the "3-7 day" window after the DP74LF is sprayed, what if it takes like 20 days for my car to get touched by the painter?  Will the whole car need to be sanded or have a red scotch brite pad go over the car?

My media blaster is busy so his plan is to take a week or two to blast and prime the car in sections as he blasts it.  I may also install and weld the sub frame connectors after media blasting and my painter may be busy so it may take some time before the painter gets to my car.

Thanks.

[Cuda Cody]

Look for the term "2K" on the rattle can.  That should indicate that it is a 2 part clear.  The normal cheap rattle can clears you find at the local hardware store will not work very well.

[Cudakiller70]

May have missed it in this thread, but they make a tintable bed liner. Another option.
https://www.amazon.com/U-POL-Tintable-TRUCK-LINER-COATING-Bedliner/dp/B002M0S9AE

Also some Bedliners you can brush and roller.