Proper paint prep

[kawahonda]

You do not block sand epoxy. Epoxy doesn't sand well. After the epoxy goes on you will see the imperfections. Epoxy primer has some sheen.

Epoxy is a base that stays on. You scuff it when adding filler (I use 80 grit). When adding high build primer you simply use a scotchbrite pad if you are out of the "window" to scuff it up.

Once then high build is on, then you proceed to block sanding.

I am trained with the old school way. My process is:

1) metal work
2) epoxy
3) filler obvious imperfections and sand, finish filler work with 180.
4) Re apply epoxy only where needed since you probably sanded through a couple spots. Then high build within window
5) block With 180
6) this is where I skimcoat most areas depending on what type of panel I'm working on.. others may use primer filler. Block filler with 80 then finish with 180
7) high build
block with 180
9) a couple light coats of high build, typically reduced since you don't need the "build" at this point.
10) wet sand 600-800

Send off to painter. Proper paint process is to shoot a reduced coat of epoxy for conformity, then BC/CC.

Show car perfection every time.

Obviously for panels that didn't need skimming you don't need to reblock again if you know what you're doing.

[RUNCHARGER]

I agree Shane knows his stuff: Back when these cars were 10 years old and with the old materials we could paint over original paint that was well bonded. The cars (and original paint) are way older now so it just isn't viable.

[fireguyfire]

Great advice gents; thanks[emoji106]

[fireguyfire]

Another painting question;I see that a lot of painters recommend removing the doors from the stripped body, prepping and painting the inside and edges of the doors, as well as the door jambs. Then they remount the doors, and paint the outside of the doors with the body of the car.
Do any of you body and paint gurus have an opinion on whether to paint the doors on or off of the car?

[RUNCHARGER]

IMO: I like them on. If it is a metallic colour then on for sure.

[fireguyfire]

It's non metallic single stage 1973 brite red paint

[Shane Kelley]

Solid colors I prefer to paint apart. That makes for cleaner jambs and no tape lines. Just be sure you have plenty of paint to do the whole job and always keep it mixed well. Another thing to remember is make sure your foundation color is the same on everything and the amount of coats you apply are the same throughout the job.

[torredcuda]

Some guys can spray metallic separately and have them match but I only paint together, solid colors no problem. The other option is to tape/mask so you can still open doors, hood and trunk to spray jambs at the same time.

Shane and others - I keep hearing primer/base color will affect final color but in all my years of seeing/doing it I have never seen a problem because of it. Unless you are using a candy or other type of transparent paint if you get correct coverage the underneath should not ever show thru. Any of you guys actually see that as an issue?

[JS29]

Use mixing cups to insure the amount of additives, wright down air pressure, lower for base, higher for clear or single stage. and the distance between the panel and the gun can make a difference.   

[HEMICUDA]

We will always paint the doors off the car.  Once the body is perfectly straight and gapped, we take all the panels off the car except the doors.  We "pre-load" the doors up 3/16" to compensate for the sag when the door is loaded with glass and all associated pieces parts.  We remove the upper bolt in the top hinge then knock out the hinge pins so 1/2 of the hinge is on the door and the other is left on the body.  That way you absolutely know the door is right back where it was when removed which sets the rest of the panels.  The bottom hinge pin is pretty easy to install, we use a long drift to install the upper pin (little tougher to do).

When painting an entire car, we'll have 3 gallons mixed so you'll have at least 1/2 a gallon or more for down the road "just in case".  Since paint is mixed 1 gallon at a time, we mix all three gallons in a new 5 gallon bucket to absolutely make sure there isn't any variance between any of the cans.

[Shane Kelley]

We will always paint the doors off the car.  Once the body is perfectly straight and gapped, we take all the panels off the car except the doors.  We "pre-load" the doors up 3/16" to compensate for the sag when the door is loaded with glass and all associated pieces parts.  We remove the upper bolt in the top hinge then knock out the hinge pins so 1/2 of the hinge is on the door and the other is left on the body.  That way you absolutely know the door is right back where it was when removed which sets the rest of the panels.  The bottom hinge pin is pretty easy to install, we use a long drift to install the upper pin (little tougher to do).

When painting an entire car, we'll have 3 gallons mixed so you'll have at least 1/2 a gallon or more for down the road "just in case".  Since paint is mixed 1 gallon at a time, we mix all three gallons in a new 5 gallon bucket to absolutely make sure there isn't any variance between any of the cans.

  Paint is expensive but you want to have plenty. Last thing you want is running out while your spraying and as Mike mentioned you need some left over for the just in case situation. Doing jambs and interior I usually go through 4 gallons of color. If your shooting yellow plan on more.

[HEMICUDA]

After the 1:1 mix, 6 gallons works for us with left overs if we're not painting the bottom.

We just finished painting the top of a fender for a local guy on his 65 Plymouth that a tent fell on at the Norwalk MOPAR show, the ding was way to sharp and deep for my PDR guy to work out perfectly.  Fortunately, he had an extra quart of single stage paint from when it was painted over 10 years ago, matched perfectly.

[fireguyfire]

One more painting question regarding areas that need no body work, and will not be being blocked down such as the underside of the hood and inside the truck, engine bay, etc.
I see online people spraying colour directly onto the epoxy primer/sealer on these areas; is this wise?
I was thinking of epoxy, then high build, then colour but if you can go directly onto the epoxy in these areas it would save a step.
Opinions from the paint gurus?

[JS29]

@fireguyfire   If you are not blocking the area, than hi build primer is not necessary. Epoxy primer can be used as a sealer. read all instructions, Epoxy has a window of days that you can apply a top coat over it with out sanding. on the other side of the coin, it must flash off a minimum amount of time.      

[YellowThumper]

Wow a tone of good information here.