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Replace entire floor pan or patch?

Started by Swamp Donkey, November 28, 2021, 04:35:34 PM

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Swamp Donkey

I was wondering if I should replace the complete floor pan, or just patch in what needs replacing and keep as much original sheet metal intact as possible. 

Here are a few pictures of what I'm dealing with after media blasting and primer.   The picture with the blue ratchet strap is approximately what I would probably like to replace if cutting up and only replacing what is needed.  A smaller piece would be on the passenger side of things.   

There is also a dents on both sides where the main floor pan meets with the back passenger pans.   I'm just trying to weigh out pro's and cons and get some advice. 

Pro use patches

- keep lots of original sheet metal. 
- Might be less labor.  (I'm going to do it so my time is free!
- Car is only on jack stands so less chance of car getting tweaked while floor is out.

Con use of patches

- won't be an all new floor
- Not as strong as a full floor

Pro use new floor

- new floor!
- Get in on torsion bar frame and other frame areas to clean and primer

Cons of new floor

- might tweak car with no Jig because car is on jack stands
- Might not fit as good as original
- Maybe not as strong with plug welds.

Like I said, I'm not worried about the actual labor, it's me doing it.  Car is not going to be a show car, I do fully intend on driving it.  But I am also spending a ton of money on it, so I do want to do it right.

Thanks!
1973 Cuda. 340 4 speed.

Swamp Donkey

Here is a picture with a light pointing up towards the floor with the lights out in the shop.  And there is a decent layer of primer on the car.
1973 Cuda. 340 4 speed.

jimynick

I think you've answered your own question, haven't you? I had exactly the same situation for my trunk floor and have never regretted installing the whole enchilada. If that section is a constellation, how far are the rest of it from going the same way? Then, ask yourself why you'd cut up a full panel to achieve a half arsed repair. Put the whole new panel in and forget about it, as Tony might've said.  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"


Dmod1974

One thing I'll say is plug welding is a helluva lot stronger than any 70's spot welding ever was.  A lot of my factory spot welds separated with a chisel or just from drilling the 1/8" spot weld cutter pilot holes without actually using the cutter.....  Try drilling out and separating your typical 3/8" plug weld!  Not fun...

Also, I think a lot of this comes down to how good you are at butt welding sheet metal and cutting the patch section out to have perfect gaps to weld up.  I personally think that is much more difficult than removing and replacing a panel.  My trans tunnel sheet metal was absolute hell to weld to new replacement metal since it was so much thinner.  That said, if the patch is small enough and you have the skill, it may be quicker for you than complete panel replacement.

The car shouldn't shift if you have it supported properly and are only removing the floor pan assuming you don't have other rust issues.  You're still going to have the torsion bar crossmember, rockers, rear floor/rear rails boxing everything in.

anlauto

 :iagree: with these guys, Just do the whole panel, it will be less welding and give you a better finished job. :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

FE5CUDA

If you can research leading, I would never take the original metal floor pan out, it doesn't look that bad.  If you can't make that happen, I would cut the foot well out and seam weld new metal in especially if the rest of the floor is good.

Filthy Filbert

I have front left and right pans that I'll sell for less than market value.    I bought them because it was the only thing in stock.  But I won't be using them because the shop I'm looking at won't touch them.   Full floor only for them.  The added labor to pay them to patch in the left and right pieces are cost prohibitive vs just replacing the whole floor. 


anlauto

Quote from: Filthy Filbert on December 02, 2021, 09:56:12 AM
I have front left and right pans that I'll sell for less than market value.    I bought them because it was the only thing in stock.  But I won't be using them because the shop I'm looking at won't touch them.   Full floor only for them.  The added labor to pay them to patch in the left and right pieces are cost prohibitive vs just replacing the whole floor.

That's usually what it boils down to if you're paying a shop to do it, but as the original poster mentioned...he's doing it himself, so if he wants to create more work for himself .... :dunno: ...I just think a one piece panel is better all around  :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration

Filthy Filbert

Correct.   When I started buying panels 4 months ago, my plan was to do the work myself.  The halves were all that were in stock, and covered the problem areas in my floor.  With me doing the work, it made no difference to me and patching in the halves would be just as strong as the one piece stamped parts, if welded properly.   

Then I learned about the AMD center in Georgia; they would do a much nicer job than I could if I attempted to do it myself.  Speaking with them, they said they won't use the halves, and they didn't want them back as trade/credit towards a full size floor pan.   

Roseville didn't want them as credit towards a full pan either haha.

so...They're for sale if anyone wants!

dodj

If it were me, that would be getting patched. For the most part, thats a pretty decent floor.
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill