Main Menu

Roof skin install questions

Started by truckinman466, December 26, 2018, 05:47:44 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

jimynick

There are quite a few oem manufacturers who bond on roof skins these days and you can bet your bottom dollar that if there were even a slight chance of the roof coming off their cars, they sure as hell wouldn't be doing it. Having said that, I'd use a blended system. Bond the skin on and leave a few prepped holes to put in those few spot welds. That's what many collision shops are doing today. Have your cake and eat it too.  :cheers:
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

JS29

Quote from: jimynick on December 27, 2018, 09:02:04 PM
There are quite a few oem manufacturers who bond on roof skins these days and you can bet your bottom dollar that if there were even a slight chance of the roof coming off their cars, they sure as hell wouldn't be doing it. Having said that, I'd use a blended system. Bond the skin on and leave a few prepped holes to put in those few spot welds. That's what many collision shops are doing today. Have your cake and eat it too.  :cheers:
:iagree: Ben there done that! I use 3M panel bond.

RUNCHARGER

The real panel bond stuff is pretty permanent.
Sheldon


jimynick

Quote from: JS29 on December 28, 2018, 05:45:13 AM
Quote from: jimynick on December 27, 2018, 09:02:04 PM
There are quite a few oem manufacturers who bond on roof skins these days and you can bet your bottom dollar that if there were even a slight chance of the roof coming off their cars, they sure as hell wouldn't be doing it. Having said that, I'd use a blended system. Bond the skin on and leave a few prepped holes to put in those few spot welds. That's what many collision shops are doing today. Have your cake and eat it too.  :cheers:
:iagree: Ben there done that! I use 3M panel bond.
The 3M is generally considered to be the gold standard for bonding material, but I've also used Dominion Sure Seal and Lord Fusor with no issues to date. I actually used the 3M also as a seam sealant when I put in the new floors. I didn't want any BS down the road and even though it IS pretty dear, I feel it was worth it. As the Brits would say- bit of a sticky wicket, what?  :D
In the immortal words of Jimmy Scott- "pace yourself!"

aussiemark

I did a 1970 Barracuda AMD roof skin and used a spot welder every where it was the best way minimal heat, zero distortion and no grinding plug welds after. I did have a problem with the centre brace it was pushing the skin up in 1 spot and there was a dent there, I had to drill the spot welds and remove the brace as soon as it was removed the dent disappeared so I tweaked the brace and applied normal seam sealer to it and plug welded it back in. It was perfect and the seam sealer is very strong while still being flexible. There is an excellent video on you tube if you google 1973 challenger roof skin you will find it was posted by jamesfreddys I watched it a few time before I started.

70 Challenger Lover

Hope this thread isn't so old that no one responds to it anymore....I spot welded my new roof skin on yesterday and it came out perfect. I used a flexible sealer across the middle support and I think that's going to work out great.

My question now is what seam sealer would be a good choice to apply to the side rails on top to cover all the spot welds and make everything nice and smooth? The sealer I used on the middle support is far too thick to use for this. I was hoping for a product that has a thin consistently so I can smear it into the nooks and crannies. It would need to be sandable and paintable. The factory had something in there before and I remember digging it all out. Any specific product suggestions?

70 Challenger Lover

I went ahead and ordered up some Lord Fusor 122 ez. It is supposed to be a self leveling seam sealer designed for roof rails. Plus I already have the correct gun.


JS29

Grease and wax remover, the stuff one would use to wipe down a surface before paint will keep seam sealer ply able. so you can work it, and it also thins it. I also use an acid brush, masking tape, and lint free shop towels. after it sets up you can give it a good couple of coats of urethane primer to finish finessing to perfection.  :alan2cents:   

Rdchallenger

Quote from: JS29 on May 19, 2019, 12:12:55 PM
Grease and wax remover, the stuff one would use to wipe down a surface before paint will keep seam sealer ply able. so you can work it, and it also thins it. I also use an acid brush, masking tape, and lint free shop towels. after it sets up you can give it a good couple of coats of urethane primer to finish finessing to perfection.  :alan2cents:

What if it's the seam sealer you apply using a caulking gun?

JS29

@Rdchallenger The same, as long as it's urethane seam sealer and paint-able you will be fine.  :bigthumb:

shawge

#25
122ez is great, used it on my drip rails. It may start to creep down on the quarter window slope so tape/paper off where you don't want drips or over application. Use a gloved finger dipped in W/G remover to smooth out as mentioned by JS29.  :alan2cents:
1970 Challenger, 451 MS3Pro EFI
Colored wiring diagrams
Wheel spreadsheet


70 Challenger Lover

Quote from: shawge on May 20, 2019, 09:32:46 AM
122ez is great, used it on my drip rails. It may start to creep down on the quarter window slope so tape/paper off where you don't want drips or over application. Use a gloved finger dipped in W/G remover to smooth out as mentioned by Rdchallenger.  :alan2cents:

Glad to hear it. Thanks for the feedback on this! I should have the stuff by next week so I'll give it a try.