Torsion Bar Crossmember repair

[pflug]

What's the consensus in repairing the following rust damage?  The rest of the crossmember seems solid- just rotted in this area on the passenger side.  I've got a repro crossmember- looking at the following options-  Replace entire crossmember, replace outboard section with piece cut out from either new crossmember or shop for a donor piece, or fabricate the smallest necessary parches from new metal. 

Rust damage on this car seems to be mostly from sitting- probably hasn't been on the road since the 80's

[Rich G.]

That's a tough call. Cosmetically it can easily be plated and painted over. The real problem is the rest of the crossmember is probably rusted on the inside and getting thin. The bigger problem is your probably opening up a whole can of worms if you try to replace the whole crossmember. I've been there! If the floors were rotted that would be a no brainer.

[anlauto]

Have it sandblasted first

[RUNCHARGER]

I agree: I think I would get violent with a pick or punch and try to punch some holes in it to verify the integrity in other places, I probably would also cut through the floor inside the spotwelds to access the top of these pieces. They will have to be cleaned up anyway and coated in the end.
Then you can decide the best course of action, if that really is all the damage I would fab up repair pieces, weld them in and polish the welds so you wouldn't be able to tell.

[jimynick]

Have it sandblasted first

Good advice, and then if you don't have shrinker/stretchers, I'd get some 16 to 14 gauge steel, make some cardboard templates and make a two piece patch. You can peen the edges over the ends of the jaws on a vice and make a rounded corner that once welded and ground and rustproofed, will look close as DAMN to the original. As mentioned, take a small ball peen hammer and give the whole thing a good tapping- not pounding, to check for integrity of the rest of the panel.