Windshield/Rear glass install tips

[Aar1064]

Thinking of doing this myself and was hoping for some tips from the experts. I purchased ECS dated windshield and will be using my original rear glass. The ECS windshield is thinner than the original windshield so I'm assuming that butyl will need to be bigger.

Is butyl the way to go?

[Cuda Cody]

This is one of the things I just have someone else do.  I don't think it's that hard, but we have a local mobile guy and his son that will come to your house and do it all for a few hundred bucks.  I figure just let someone that knows what they are doing do it.  If I mess up one windshield or piece of glass it would not be worth it.

With that said, I don't think it's all that hard.  You want to do some test fitting to make sure you know where the glass needs to sit.  Use spacers at the bottom and underneath to get it where you want before you use the sealant.  Test fit all the trim too.  Good luck and let us know how it goes!

[RUNCHARGER]

Butyls the way to go and it comes in two different thicknesses. I always do my own for convenience and get my wife to help me but you don't save much money. I think the shops around here charge about $100 for each so that isn't a big deal. Like I say though I like the convenience of doing it when I want to. I guess I also take pride in doing pretty much everything myself, I am not crazy about doing the gasket ones on the older cars and pickups though.

[screamindriver]

You'll want to use the 3/8 thickness for a new windshield that's a touch thinner than the original.... Use the 5/16 for the original rear glass {if the windshield was original you'd want the 5/16 for both}...Here's what I do in addition to the butyl tape... After the glass is set I run a bead of urethane around the outside of the butyl tape...This locks the glass in place and seals any imperfections/potential trouble spots that may be present...I'm not talking about filling the channel just sealing the glass along the edges as well as the bottom of the butyl ribbon so water can't get under the ribbon at any point in the future...

    Some are now suggesting using just urethane {without any ribbon} but if you ever need to get the glass out it probably won't be possible without damaging the vehicle or the glass...

[RUNCHARGER]

You can visually see if the butyl contacts and seals to the glass except through the upper shaded part on the windshield, I agree you can gun some urethane anywhere it needs it.

[nsmall]

Not to hijack this thread, but what's a fair price to have someone take out the front and rear glass assuming the trim is removed? How about the cost of installing front and rear glass?

Thanks

[headejm]

I took out my windshield and SE back glass using a guitar string and two wooden dowels as handles. I had never done it before and although I wouldn't say it was easy, it was quite rewarding when I was finished. Getting all of the old butyl/sealer out of the channel was a major PITA. After I was finished, I was glad I did it. Here is an excellent article about installing glass. I'll be doing this next!

[cataclysm80]

I prefer butyl over urethane.
Before installing the trim, I check the seal with compressed air, one person in the car with air and one person outside.

[Aar1064]

@RUNCHARGER @screamindriver Is the butyl flat? Should I expect to push down to get the height needed so trim fits correctly or just press down enough to seal? I assume that if the latter is the way to go, the trim will lay as it should.

What brand of butyl should I get?

[cataclysm80]

Butyl is round, but pliable.

[screamindriver]

Yes I agree about using butyl ribbon also...After you urethane the glass in it's there to stay most will break the glass trying to get it back out...Not only that but you can "see" the urethane at some point around the windows and it just looks unnatural for the application...

    Another point to make is you may need to search for someone willing to use the butyl tape if you're paying an automotive glass company to install it...They all seem to want to take the easy way out and just shoot it with urethane....

    And if anyone does a butyl ribbon install  yourself the room temps as well as all the components need to be warm.... Don't try to install them in a cold shop it won't set the glass correctly...  EDIIT: Here's a link to some install tips...Evidently this shop does the same as I was suggesting...http://www.route66restorations.com/Install.html     Another tip that should be added is : If the shop is warm enough you should be able to use the palm of your hand and press the glass down into the butyl ribbon...Work your way around the perimeter of the glass...As RUNCHARGER has pointed out you should be able to see the seal between the glass and the ribbon as you work the glass into position...After that add the urethane as suggested....

[70chall440]

Most places don't like to us Butyl because it is said to be unsafe by modern standards. I purchased a new windshield from a local shop and some Butyl tape. Even though they sold me the tape, they were very adamant that it was unsafe and I would fly out of the car if involved in an accident. I didn't have the heart to tell them that I was going to stack it so I can flush mount the glass... 

As far as getting a window put in, look around locally and see if you can find a small enterprising shop that is hungry for business. When I did my Challenger, I had a guy deliver it and install it for like $130 (this included the glass); took him like 10 minutes. Unfortunately I didn't have the trim clips in and ended up breaking the glass trying to put them in, so another $100 (he cut me a deal) later and it was done.

[screamindriver]

And that's the typical response you'll get from a glass installer I was referring to...Funny, I don't remember ever seeing a windshield laying out on the road back in the day...      In any case if you add the urethane to lock the glass in position you'll have the best situation possible...A chance to get the glass back out if need be,factory appearing from the inside, and the urethane seal to lock the glass in position as well as keep the water moving out of the area...

Besides, In a front end collision driving an Ebody I'd be more worried about the hood shearing off and acting like a guilotine coming THROUGH the windshield....It's an ugly truth with these cars... Don't bet your life on those later year hood crumple zones working as expected every time...Just duck when you get to the crash...

[70chall440]

Someone once told me that if you use Urethane only, the glass sits too low and the trim won't sit right. I don't know if this is right but thought I would put it out there.

[RUNCHARGER]

Yup: I suppose you could adjust the urethane and maybe let it tack up just a bit before lowering the glass? I have always used Butyl. Urethane is necessary with new cars of course because they utilize the glass  as a structural component.
I've cut glass out by using a utility knife but it's a little awkward. Windshield doesn't matter but back windows can be hard to replace.
I pat the new glass all the way around to make sure it bonds, generally I hold a work light in one hand as I work my way around. Don't use hard pressure but moderately firm so as not to break the glass. The blowing of air is a good idea although I haven't done it. Pretty much the inside is bonded as long as you used pinchweld primer and you can see the outside so it's fairly easy to see if you've got it.
You have to make some spacer blocks so the glass doesn't end up sitting too low in the openings. I cut them out of dried butyl or rubber whatever if I have some lying around. I carefully lay the glass in dry with my helper and note the gaps all around before the final drop-in. Once my helper and I know the gap around the perimeter I lay in the butyl and we bring the glass near and then one at a time reach one hand through the door window opening to support that side of the glass with the other hand on the outside of course. I let the helper bring their side say within 4 inches, level all around and I watch the bottom corner and bring it down and lightly stick it. Then I rush around to the other side to watch the helper bring it down (again watching the lower corner). You only get one shot so you have to be careful but it's totally doable. I think the perimeter gap is 3/8" or maybe 1/4" but I've never measured it, just make sure it is equal all around. I glue the blocks in the bottom so that gap is set and the glass can't slide down. The side gap I judge. I'm not a pro by any means and there may be things I do wrong or better techniques but this works for me. I like to make sure the butyl in the bottom channel goes right to the bottom so it seals any water out as well.