Bare metal suspension parts - THIS THREAD IS OFFICALLY OVER

[HEMICUDA]

Awesome!

So, in conclusion, this effort shows that you have been thinking inside the box!   

Jim

You're a funny guy Jimmy.

[HEMICUDA]

Awesome!

So, in conclusion, this effort shows that you have been thinking inside the box!   

Jim
             Or inside the hot box! 

WOW!!  Gunna have to go home and play in the box the kids came in.

[HEMICUDA]

If you choose to step up and powder coat your parts, one thing that is very important to understand is the "Faraday Cage Effect".  Attached is a video explaining this situation.  The one piece of advice I can give you, do those areas first.  When you initially charge the part, make sure you have the voltage on the lowest setting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Im52XJTx0v4

This front hanger was also in the flower bed, notice there's no rust on the outside of the part and where there is rust on the inside.  Do your homework about the Faraday Cage issue, all powder coaters have to deal with it.  It's not an issue if handled properly.

[JS29]

The path of lest resistance, That makes sense.  Good to know. 

[pink aar]

I've been doing the Mike Ross metal test thing and here's a example from me. It's dead nuts. The tie rod is straight out of the box ( new ) next to a drag link I did .

[HEMICUDA]

I've been doing the Mike Ross metal test thing and here's a example from me. It's dead nuts. The tie rod is straight out of the box ( new ) next to a drag link I did .

See Jay, I told you, that wasn't so difficult. 

Everything worked so well, I'm stepping it up a little.  The new oven can do every bare metal part in one bake with an inside dimension of 44" x 44" x 72" high.  The second bake will be all the semi-gloss black parts like the rear end housing, trans cross member, torsion bars, k-member and front sway bar brackets.  I will also be doing all the seat frames, garnish moldings and dash frame (correct black finishes of course).  I also picked up an industrial powder coating gun.

I will always have the little oven for misc. small parts I might need coated.  I don't have a piece of equipment in my shop that's not on wheels, I made the rack and the cart to load/unload it.

[Chryco Psycho]

Good to understand how things work & the problems that come up

[HEMICUDA]

Many years ago I to was a trained amateur restorer jingle can master. 

[Cuda Cody]

Looks great!    Nicely done.

I've been doing the Mike Ross metal test thing and here's a example from me. It's dead nuts. The tie rod is straight out of the box ( new ) next to a drag link I did .

[HEMICUDA]

A few finger prints, that's OK, it's powder coated.  Unlike a jingle can paint, this stuff is super hard to hurt.  All these parts will be going on a customers pink AAR we are restoring.  With permission from the customer, I may start a restoration thread so the average hobbyist can see how the higher end shops restore cars so they can understand the difference between a real shop and the "Mr. Jingling's" of the world.   There's a really good reason why quality shops rarely if ever use rattle can paints on anything.

[dodj]

There's a really good reason why quality shops rarely if ever use rattle can paints on anything.

I'm beginning to get the idea that you are not keen on spray can paint.... 


I have been told spray can paint is less durable than paint you mix and spray yourself, but what makes the spray bomb stuff less durable?  Not being a smart ass, I just don't know?

[Cuda Cody]

Single part paints (which is most common in rattle cans) do not have a catalyst so there's not a 2nd part to chemically react and harden the paint.  The paint dries when the paint comes in contact with the air.  Since the paint does not change chemically, after it dries it can still be chemically softened if it comes in contact with harsh chemicals like paint thinner.

Powder coating uses a dry powder that is attracted to the part by an electrical charge.  After it's evenly on the part the part is baked and the dry powder paint melts evenly on the part.  Sometime the powder paint will contain a catalyst that will add durability.  The dry powder can also include in the mix an additive to produce a satin or matte finish.  Powder coating is very durable, but can also be very brittle so it is not indestructible and even a properly applied finish can scratch or chip if it is impacted with enough force or is exposed to sharp objects.

2 Part paints (the ones that are now used to paint the outside of cars) have a catalyst added to the paint at time of use so they chemical change when they dry.  It a similar chemical reaction that concrete has when it hardens.  Think about how hard it would be to change concrete back to a cement after it has cured (impossible to do).  The same thing happens when you add an isocyanate catalyst to a paint.  It chemically changes the paint when dry and it is super durable and holds up extremely well to harsh chemicals and abuse.  This is why most high end car paint jobs use 2 part paints.

Powder coating used to be expensive and only for high end shops to do, but that as changed a lot recently and now you can get very high quality powders and do the same quality job in your garage at home with a small investment in equipment.  Also, rattle cans have advanced so they can use the 2 part paints.  Now it's possible to have the advance high end quality paints in a rattle can.  The cost is much higher than single part rattle can paint (not to be confused with single stage paint).  Most single part rattle can paints will run a couple bucks up to maybe $10 or so.  2 part rattle cans that have a catalyst (called 2K aerosol rattle can paint) start at about $25 a can and they can only be used for a day or two after they have been activated.

Hopes that helps.

I have been told spray can paint is less durable than paint you mix and spray yourself, but what makes the spray bomb stuff less durable?  Not being a smart ass, I just don't know?

[dodj]

 
Thanks very much Cody!

Now I know why some are so much more expensive. I thought it was just branding?

I've actually had some really good long lasting results with spray bombs. Call me Mr. Jingling I guess? lol

[HEMICUDA]

Single part paints (which is most common in rattle cans) do not have a catalyst so there's not a 2nd part to chemically react and harden the paint.  The paint dries when the paint comes in contact with the air.  Since the paint does not change chemically, after it dries it can still be chemically softened if it comes in contact with harsh chemicals like paint thinner.

Powder coating uses a dry powder that is attracted to the part by an electrical charge.  After it's evenly on the part the part is baked and the dry powder paint melts evenly on the part.  Sometime the powder paint will contain a catalyst that will add durability.  The dry powder can also include in the mix an additive to produce a satin or matte finish.  Powder coating is very durable, but can also be very brittle so it is not indestructible and even a properly applied finish can scratch or chip if it is impacted with enough force or is exposed to sharp objects.

2 Part paints (the ones that are now used to paint the outside of cars) have a catalyst added to the paint at time of use so they chemical change when they dry.  It a similar chemical reaction that concrete has when it hardens.  Think about how hard it would be to change concrete back to a cement after it has cured (impossible to do).  The same thing happens when you add an isocyanate catalyst to a paint.  It chemically changes the paint when dry and it is super durable and holds up extremely well to harsh chemicals and abuse.  This is why most high end car paint jobs use 2 part paints.

Powder coating used to be expensive and only for high end shops to do, but that as changed a lot recently and now you can get very high quality powders and do the same quality job in your garage at home with a small investment in equipment.  Also, rattle cans have advanced so they can use the 2 part paints.  Now it's possible to have the advance high end quality paints in a rattle can.  The cost is much higher than single part rattle can paint (not to be confused with single stage paint).  Most single part rattle can paints will run a couple bucks up to maybe $10 or so.  2 part rattle cans that have a catalyst (called 2K aerosol rattle can paint) start at about $25 a can and they can only be used for a day or two after they have been activated.

Hopes that helps.

I have been told spray can paint is less durable than paint you mix and spray yourself, but what makes the spray bomb stuff less durable?  Not being a smart ass, I just don't know?

You are absolutely correct Cody, however, lets qualify your comparison.  I'm not talking about un-catalyzed paint, it has NO business in any durability discussion, you can scratch it off with your finger nail for goodness sakes.   I would equate a catalyzed painted part as a peanut shell and a powder coated part a walnut shell.  Sure, you can crush both with a hammer, difference is, a powder coated part needs a far larger hammer to accomplish the same result.  A painted part shouldn't even be in the same discussion as a powder coated part with respect to durability, there's NO comparison.  I have a 6bbl Cuda I restored 20 years ago, absolutely every single part, inside and out, was powder coated and I mean everything, it looks just as good today as it did the day I finished the car.  Nope, not a single chip and I can "quick detail" everything without a single scratch.

In reference to catalyzed jingle can paint, I'm only familiar with the Spray Max brand (Eastwood brand is made by Spray Max), I've used their 2K primer as a base on smaller parts.  Since my usage was so limited and the "pot" life so short, I quit using it and mix all my 2K and spray it out of a gun.  Spray Max also offers 2K paint with a limited color selection.  For the "average" enthusiast, if painting is the way you're going without the use of a spray gun, I absolutely recommend the 2 part jingle can.

So, in a nut shell, if painting, use 2 part catalyzed, refrain from "single stage" jingle can paint, especially on exterior parts.  (Seymour doesn't make 2 part jingle can paint that I'm aware of)

Your average enthusiast, generally speaking, will not have access to all the equipment that a "true" professional shop has.  I don't know of any "higher end" restorer that uses single stage jingle can paint on anything.

[Shane Kelley]

There is a big bonus to power coat over paint no one has mentioned besides the durability. No small dirt specs in the finish.