Bare metal suspension parts - THIS THREAD IS OFFICALLY OVER

[HEMICUDA]

Total "actual" labor time after blasting is 15 minutes.

[dodj]

With all the huge  advantages to powder coating over paint, the best part is, I don't have to charge the customer any extra for it.

As I have been following this thread with interest, I was wondering how much more a customer would be charged for the "powder coat everything" option.
Surprised to learn that you charge the same for paint or powder. Impressive. I would have thought the extra prep time and cost of running the oven would have some financial impact for the business.

[Shane Kelley]

This doesn't pertain to this thread, but i have better results using painters plastic over paper as well. It keeps the over spray clung to it, resulting in cleaner jobs. 

Since you posted it, I will give you my

What you're saying is counter intuitive, you're correct, it's the static build up in the plastic and car body the develops from spraying that attracts the over spay for sure.  However, any professional painter will tell you that's a bad thing, every tiny piece of anything floating in the air as well as over spray, will not only be attracted to the plastic, will also be attracted to your top coats.  It's no different than rubbing an air  balloon on you hair and stick it on the wall, not good.

We also use a bunch of plastic when bagging up car bodies for paint, we don't have an overspray problem with our down draft heated paint booth.  As mentioned earlier in this thread, grounding the body to prevent static build up is very important for clean top coats.

I prefer liquid spray mask. Hands down provides the cleanest paint jobs. It grabs and holds any dust and you don't have to worry about any over spray creeping under the plastic or paper. It's come a long way it the last few years. Use to need special equipment and gun to apply but now you can spray it right out of a paint gun. De solves with water from a hose.   

[Gary]

Mike, so what gun are you using now.  Did you start with an Eastwood or something like it and move up. If so. could you share the advantages of what you are using now over the cheaper hobby guns.

[1 Wild R/T]

I have used "real" cosmoline on my personal cars in the past, these lower control arms are done with a Krylon Battery Protector spray.  The color is super close and the way it runs when sprayed is very close to cosmoline except that it dries to the touch so you won't have to worry about everything sticking to it.

If you notice, the dip line is parallel to the floor in relation to how they were hung.  The dip lines were at different heights back in the day based on how much cosmoline was left in the tank, these were done based on the rust line.

I love the fact that the Kylon Battery protector spray is still the best option for quasi Cosmoline.. I first used it back in 95... I'd tried the Eastwood Cosmoline, I'd tried the cosmoline product being sold by Roger Gibson's shop... I didn't like either.. I tried a number of other products & techniques... I was looking for a better option & remembered using Kyrlon on battery & the color was pretty close, especially if you lay it on heavy... It would develop runs like true cosmoline...  I gave it a shot & was pleased with the results...

While showing my car I got a few compliments about the LCA's then around 2003 Troy Bray was doing his T/A & posted on Moparts about his testing for a substitute of cosmoline... I posted about the Kylon, he tried it & agreed it was the best thing he'd tried....   Sixteen years later Mike still gives it the thumbs up...  Cool!

[HEMICUDA]

With all the huge  advantages to powder coating over paint, the best part is, I don't have to charge the customer any extra for it.

As I have been following this thread with interest, I was wondering how much more a customer would be charged for the "powder coat everything" option.
Surprised to learn that you charge the same for paint or powder. Impressive. I would have thought the extra prep time and cost of running the oven would have some financial impact for the business.

Actually, there's less prep if you start with a decent part to begin with.  I'm taking the piece right out of the blasting cabinet when the part is as clean as it's going to get, blowing it off and hanging it for powder coating, that's it. Keep in mind, you're blasting weather powder coating or painting, that's where the differences start.  If you're one of the "better" shops, you'll be using a catalyzed epoxy/paint and your solvents as opposed to going right to powder.  Your material expense alone, unless using a cheap single stage jingle can like some "so called" experts do , offsets the powder, oven and the ancillaries you'll need to powder coat.  Also, the inherent durability and corrosion protection if offers has a ton of "added value" as far as I'm concerned.  The other benefit afforded to me, I can literally have a part blasted, coated and ready for assembly in 60 minutes of less depending on the part.  Unless you're using a single stage jingle can, you'll be waiting on drying time.

As a shop, I'm kicking myself in the a$$ for not doing this sooner on all my bare metal or painted parts.  I'll be pulling apart my black AAR I finished last year to get it ready for Carlisle 2020 where everyone can check it out as a comparison to Eric's purple convertible done elsewhere that will be coming here for body/paint work along with a laundry list of other things that need addressed and fixed after Carlisle.  That way, the average enthusiast can educate themselves and know the difference between a "true" quality restoration and someone selling snake oil for the same monies.   Come see me, I love talking cars and sharing information and secrets.

In reference to the gun, I'm using the Redline EZ 100 for now, I'm still using the small oven and Eastwood gun on the smaller parts.  The Redline is a much better gun for getting into all the nooks and crannies where you may experience the "Faraday Cage Effect" like inside and around the k-member.  If you're going to only do the parts that fit into a conventional oven, the Eastwood gun may be all you need.  I'll be doing tie rod ends this morning, along with a couple other parts, and that's exactly what I will be using.

If anyone wants to talk shop, call me anytime, love to chat with you if I can help you out.

[HEMICUDA]

I have used "real" cosmoline on my personal cars in the past, these lower control arms are done with a Krylon Battery Protector spray.  The color is super close and the way it runs when sprayed is very close to cosmoline except that it dries to the touch so you won't have to worry about everything sticking to it.

If you notice, the dip line is parallel to the floor in relation to how they were hung.  The dip lines were at different heights back in the day based on how much cosmoline was left in the tank, these were done based on the rust line.

I love the fact that the Kylon Battery protector spray is still the best option for quasi Cosmoline.. I first used it back in 95... I'd tried the Eastwood Cosmoline, I'd tried the cosmoline product being sold by Roger Gibson's shop... I didn't like either.. I tried a number of other products & techniques... I was looking for a better option & remembered using Kyrlon on battery & the color was pretty close, especially if you lay it on heavy... It would develop runs like true cosmoline...  I gave it a shot & was pleased with the results...

While showing my car I got a few compliments about the LCA's then around 2003 Troy Bray was doing his T/A & posted on Moparts about his testing for a substitute of cosmoline... I posted about the Kylon, he tried it & agreed it was the best thing he'd tried....   Sixteen years later Mike still gives it the thumbs up...  Cool!

I have a friend that has a 30 gallon drum of real cosmoline I dipped my lower control arms in Randy, I refuse to use it anymore.  You're absolutely correct about the Krylon, I always wanted to be absolutely correct and used cosmoline, no more.

[HEMICUDA]

This doesn't pertain to this thread, but i have better results using painters plastic over paper as well. It keeps the over spray clung to it, resulting in cleaner jobs. 

Since you posted it, I will give you my

What you're saying is counter intuitive, you're correct, it's the static build up in the plastic and car body the develops from spraying that attracts the over spay for sure.  However, any professional painter will tell you that's a bad thing, every tiny piece of anything floating in the air as well as over spray, will not only be attracted to the plastic, will also be attracted to your top coats.  It's no different than rubbing an air  balloon on you hair and stick it on the wall, not good.

We also use a bunch of plastic when bagging up car bodies for paint, we don't have an overspray problem with our down draft heated paint booth.  As mentioned earlier in this thread, grounding the body to prevent static build up is very important for clean top coats.

I prefer liquid spray mask. Hands down provides the cleanest paint jobs. It grabs and holds any dust and you don't have to worry about any over spray creeping under the plastic or paper. It's come a long way it the last few years. Use to need special equipment and gun to apply but now you can spray it right out of a paint gun. De solves with water from a hose.

I've used it on collision jobs where you're panel painting, not sure where to use it on a restoration?  We are bagging the body when it's in primer to grey/green epoxy the bottom, re-bagging the bottom to paint the rest of the shell.

[pink aar]

I don't know if I'm passing the test here or not. MIKE   

[HEMICUDA]

The first picture is the upper control arm right out of the blasting cabinet.  The second is the arm after a 1/2 second dip in my super deluded black oxide, hot water wash and blow dry.  The third picture is what the part looks like after the 0000 steel wool polish.

The last picture is straight out of the "easy bake" oven.

[HEMICUDA]

I don't know if I'm passing the test here or not. MIKE   

Looks great Jay and you'll never have to worry about your parts rusting with one of the toughest coating available.   I have to ask, is it as easy as I said it would be?

[76orangewagon]

I might have you re-do some of my suspension parts before the Cuda leaves your shop...that stuff looks fantastic !!!

[6Pack70]

Wow!  That looks incredible Mike!  This thread is just getting better and better.   I appreciate you letting all of us know how your techniques and answering questions.  I was begining to think powdercoating parts that are raw metal was not possible.  You make it look easy buddy.  Thank you 

[HEMICUDA]

I might have you re-do some of my suspension parts before the Cuda leaves your shop...that stuff looks fantastic !!!

You mean the "Seymour" is coming off?

You want something like this?   Blast what ever you want done and drag it over here.  It will cost you breakfast down the street while your parts are cooking.

[HEMICUDA]

Wow!  That looks incredible Mike!  This thread is just getting better and better.   I appreciate you letting all of us know how your techniques and answering questions.  I was begining to think powdercoating parts that are raw metal was not possible.  You make it look easy buddy.  Thank you 

You have got to be kidding me brother, I owe you big time Eddy, thx for the "correct" calipers for the pink AAR we're restoring.   I'm still down one driver side for the sweet blue on blue 4-speed AAR in the shop.