differential cover ink stamping = help needed

[manycj]

Hi Guys, long time no post.   It's been a while since I posted here as I moved on to restoring a 1970 FM3 Satellite Conv to go with my 1970 FM3 Challenger.  I've been posting the Satellite project over at forbbodiesonly.com.

The reason for my post here today, is that I am getting ready to sandblast the rear end for the car and can't make out the writing, which is highlighted in red below.  The writing is stamped on it in yellow. Looks more like a word and not a part number. I've tried a few things, but can't seem to identify what it says. I know I have seen pictures of another rear ends with similar writing, probably here, but I can't seem to find any. I was hoping that maybe one you guys might be able to point me in the right direction. the guys at forbbodiesonly.com are really no help.

thanks
-Chris

[Burdar]

Hold off on the blasting. 

Build a box out of plywood and line it with plastic.  Then fill the box with EvapoRust.  It will remove the rust and leave all the paint (and paint markings) on the axle.  You'll be shocked at how much paint is still on the rear end.  It may not look like it now but there is still a lot of paint on that thing.  I'd bet there are a lot of other hidden markings that will be uncovered.

Build the box as small as possible so there is very little extra room.  You'll use less EvapoRust that way.  I bought (3) 3.5 gallon containers of EvapoRust online through Walmart for $150 last year.  Prices have probably gone way up but search for the best prices.

If you aren't interested in doing that, you could at least remove the cover and soak it in EvapoRust. 

[anlauto]

Even spraying that area with WD40 may make the letters show up more  , but I like the whole dipping idea

[johnshotrods]

Hold off on the blasting. 

Build a box out of plywood and line it with plastic.  Then fill the box with EvapoRust.  It will remove the rust and leave all the paint (and paint markings) on the axle.  You'll be shocked at how much paint is still on the rear end.  It may not look like it now but there is still a lot of paint on that thing.  I'd bet there are a lot of other hidden markings that will be uncovered.

Build the box as small as possible so there is very little extra room.  You'll use less EvapoRust that way.  I bought (3) 3.5 gallon containers of EvapoRust online through Walmart for $150 last year.  Prices have probably gone way up but search for the best prices.

If you aren't interested in doing that, you could at least remove the cover and soak it in EvapoRust. 

I agree hold off on the blasting and get some Evaporust . I was skeptical about this stuff at first , seemed to good to be true. but i was doing a restoration on one of my cars and was at the same point you are at , i wanted to know what the letters/numbers were so i could put them back on . Heres a few photos of a trans case before and after the evaporust bath .
Stuff works AMAZING

[cuda hunter]

Heres a few photos of a trans case before and after the evaporust bath .
Stuff works AMAZING

Wow!!  What a difference. 

[MoparLeo]

Probably should be completely serviced any way. Disassemble and then dip the cover.

[RacerX]

Ordinary vinegar works just as good as the evaporust at a fraction of the cost...

The shock plates in the picture are fresh out of the bath and all looked like the other picture before a swim
in the pickle juice...

[cudamadd]

Wow that's incredible you guys have some great little tricks awesome.

[Bullitt-]

  I'm just wondering what kind of rear end that is & is it correct for a '70 B-body? 

Looks more like the 8.25 used in later B-bodies

[7E-Bodies]

@johnshotrods that is stunning! I may be putting a few gallons of that on my shelves for future use.

[johnshotrods]

@johnshotrods that is stunning! I may be putting a few gallons of that on my shelves for future use.

Kevin , I was really impressed how well it worked and the nice thing about it is its really safe to work with . I let the case soak for 24 hours submerged in a tub and when i pulled it out i did not expect to see anything but it only removes rust not paint . Then i was able to make stencils to duplicate the original paint markings .  The stuff is a little costly so i may try the vinegar to see how that works also . Plus i don't really care for the texture that sandblasting leaves the steel .

[Katfish]

Ordinary vinegar works just as good as the evaporust at a fraction of the cost...

More info on this please,  just ordinary white vinegar?
Completely immerse?
How long?

[Burdar]

Ordinary vinegar works just as good as the evaporust at a fraction of the cost...

Well, yes...and no.  Vinegar will remove rust.  It's an acid so it does eat into the good metal....just not very fast.  You'd have to soak a part for a long time for it to erode in vinegar.  It is however, harder on the parts then EvapoRust.  Both have their place.  You can soak galvanized parts in EvapoRust for 20 minutes or so and it will clean the part and brighten the galvanizing.  I don't think I'd dip that same part in vinegar.  It will probably remove the galvanizing fairly quickly.(EvapoRust will remove the galvanizing too if you leave it in too long)

I've also found that vinegar will remove underlying paint markings much easier then EvapoRust.  Vinegar turns heavy rust into a loose sludge but you kind of have to scrub it off.  It doesn't usually just rinse away when you hose it down.  EvapoRust dissolves the rust and leaves paint markings intact.  If you leave a part in EvapoRust too long the paint markings can loosen up and will wipe away.  However it's much more forgiving then vinegar.  Check the parts often and only soak them long enough to uncover the paint markings for documentation.

In my opinion, save the vinegar for heavily rusted parts that you aren't concerned about removing any possible paint markings.(not everyone is concerned about that stuff)  Use the EvapoRust for more delicate parts and pieces where you want to preserve the original finish. 

One final thought...
Parts will immediately flash rust when they come out of a vinegar bath.  That doesn't happen with EvapoRust.  You can hose off a part soaked in EvapoRust and air blow it dry.  It will stay clean with no flash rust for a long time.(depending on the conditions it's kept in) I've had parts sitting on a kitchen counter for weeks and no flash rust has formed.  I've also used vinegar to derust the bulk of heavy rust on parts, then dip the parts in EvapoRust at the end to prevent any flash rust when they are removed.  Both have their place. 

[7E-Bodies]

@Burdar that was an amazing, well backed and thought out reply that I have definitely learned from. You got me thinking of the exhaust heat shields from my 440 RT that I still have to deal with. They're the originals, with no rot and no dents, but just showing their age, fade and road tar. I will definitely give evaporust a go. Wondering how long they should be allowed to soak. I'd of course check them periodically during the process, but just curious if you recommend a certain time interval and if the stuff is used straight from the jug or diluted. Thanks again for a well written reply.

[manycj]

thanks for the suggestion. It sounded like a really good way to do it, but alas it didn't work for me.