Headers and Stainless steel Exhaust

[tdwnilla1]

HI everyone,

I have been struggling to decide what to get for headers and an exhaust on my 1973 Cuda. I am looking at Pypes for my exhaust system and Doug's for my headers. I have been doing a bunch of research and found that there is a D453 and D4477 part number that both say they will fit my car. I was going to get the D453 which is a short tube header and like $700.00 but then I saw the D4477 for like $570.00 I feel like the only difference between the D453 and the D4477 is the length with the D4477 being longer but I am not sure. I don"t know enough to know if the length will be an issue with anything like the transmission and I am afraid to pull the trigger and be stuck trying to make everything work. Hoping one of you with a Cuda has a similar setup and can educate me or provide suggestions before I drop over a grand on my exhaust and headers.

Thanks, Todd

[Bullitt-]

  I went in search of info on the D4477 and see their for a GENIII HEMI...
Summit listed these under '73 Cuda but not the D453.. Found more under Challenger
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/headers/product-line/dougs-headers/make/dodge/model/challenger
  D453 shows as a Long Tube header for the original small block, ie 318/340CI
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dou-d453

   Which Engine do you have?

[tdwnilla1]

Yes, I looked at it again and it is indeed for the Hemi. I have a 340, looks as though I will need the D453. I am still looking to find out about fitment from anyone who may have these headers with the Pypes stainless steel exhaust system. I am also curious if anyone was able to utilize the factory starter with no or minor issues. I have a relatively new starter in the car and justify writing it off yet.

[MoparLeo]

How about more info on what you have.You only said it was a 73 Cuda. No engine/transmission info.......

[tdwnilla1]

340, 727 torqueflite

[Bullitt-]

  I can't speak to the Doug's fitment other than to say most I read they do pretty good.
Here's the only instructions I see for them
https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/447D453.pdf

I have the Pypes 2.5" exhaust with a cheap set of Hooker headers. I think you will see about the same challenges connecting any header to the Pypes exhaust.. Where the exhaust kit ends is offset from the headers by a few inches on either side.. I had to purchase a J-bend & slice & weld it to create S-curve to connect the two... I used Pypes collector extensions. .... This is probably what any exhaust kit would require.

https://i.postimg.cc/x8KCcYwR/P1010024.jpg

[chargerdon]

For what it is worth.   I have a 74 challenger with 360LA engine.    When i bought it it came with a new Patriot brand long header which was not installed. 

I installed the Patriot long tube header with little fuss.   It fit on each side rather easily from the bottom.    On the drivers side I did have to disconnect the steering link bar as it goes thru the tube on the driver side.  This was the only difficult part of the installation, nothing else needed to be done.   I did NOT have to remove the starter, and after installation i was able to remove the starter without moving the header.    I think its a factory original starter but not sure.    On top the #5 spark plug is a tight fit, and the #7 spark plug an even tighter fit...in fact i had to shorten a spark plug wrench to fit it in and then use an open end 13/16 wrench on the plug wrench to remove or install that plug.   It came with the 12 pt 3/8 bolts for installation, and again the two bolts by #5 and #7 have to be installed with a plain 3/8 wrench and you cannot get a socket on them.    Torque for the bolts is 25 ft lbs, so for those two had to guess, i used anti-seize and had no problem removing them later.   I did find that starting the one bolt was very difficult as its a tight fit, but, i solved that issue by cutting a grove in the head of the bolts so that i could start using a screw driver.   

Another negative of the long tube Patriot header, is that the bolt for the engine mount on the drivers side cannot be removed as it is 4 1/2 inches long and will hit the header...so to change the mount i have to remove the header bolts at the exhaust manifold and swing it out of the way.    Next time i have to replace the engine mount i will cut off the welded nut on the front side of the engine mount and reweld it to the firewall side of the engine mount, so that the bolt would then come out towards the front of the engine where there is room and not towards the firewall.   

PS...the Patriot steel headers PTE-H8206 run $268 at summit and the ceramic coated PTE-H8206-1 run $446.    I have the ceramic coated and they are holding up very nicely after 2 years of spirited driving.   Following the instructions, i have never had to retighten them after the installation and they have never leaked.   

[tdwnilla1]

For what it is worth.   I have a 74 challenger with 360LA engine.    When i bought it it came with a new Patriot brand long header which was not installed. 

I installed the Patriot long tube header with little fuss.   It fit on each side rather easily from the bottom.    On the drivers side I did have to disconnect the steering link bar as it goes thru the tube on the driver side.  This was the only difficult part of the installation, nothing else needed to be done.   I did NOT have to remove the starter, and after installation i was able to remove the starter without moving the header.    I think its a factory original starter but not sure.    On top the #5 spark plug is a tight fit, and the #7 spark plug an even tighter fit...in fact i had to shorten a spark plug wrench to fit it in and then use an open end 13/16 wrench on the plug wrench to remove or install that plug.   It came with the 12 pt 3/8 bolts for installation, and again the two bolts by #5 and #7 have to be installed with a plain 3/8 wrench and you cannot get a socket on them.    Torque for the bolts is 25 ft lbs, so for those two had to guess, i used anti-seize and had no problem removing them later.   I did find that starting the one bolt was very difficult as its a tight fit, but, i solved that issue by cutting a grove in the head of the bolts so that i could start using a screw driver.   

Another negative of the long tube Patriot header, is that the bolt for the engine mount on the drivers side cannot be removed as it is 4 1/2 inches long and will hit the header...so to change the mount i have to remove the header bolts at the exhaust manifold and swing it out of the way.    Next time i have to replace the engine mount i will cut off the welded nut on the front side of the engine mount and reweld it to the firewall side of the engine mount, so that the bolt would then come out towards the front of the engine where there is room and not towards the firewall.   

PS...the Patriot steel headers PTE-H8206 run $268 at summit and the ceramic coated PTE-H8206-1 run $446.    I have the ceramic coated and they are holding up very nicely after 2 years of spirited driving.   Following the instructions, i have never had to retighten them after the installation and they have never leaked.

Thank you for your response and detailed information. I am sure it will help me in my decision making process. I am actually looking to install Doug's Headers (D453) and not Patriot. Pertronix sells both and I believe Patriot is their staple. My father has a 64 Ford Falcon with a 302 that we installed Patriot Headers on and had similar issues like you are describing. Although they are a pretty nice header, I have heard from some others that Doug's is one of the best. Hopefully somebody with them will chime in and let me know what they think as well. What do you have behind the Headers for an exhaust system?