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Instrument panel switches

Started by superwrench, April 01, 2018, 05:39:09 PM

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Slotts

Quote from: Morty426 on April 06, 2018, 06:05:04 AM
I figured that but I am looking for place the ohm meter at this place and this place and turn the knob and it should do yada yada

The 2947713 E body dash dimmer switch circuit measured across the I and R terminals should read between 0 Ohms resistance (full bright lights) to approximately -15 Ohms of resistance (dimmest setting before lights off). The dome light circuit D terminal and switch frame should read 0 Ohms. Any amount of resistance will dim the brightness of the overhead light.

Corrosion and broken resistor coils, as Neil mentioned, are the silent killers of these switches. Each E or B body dash dimmer switch sent in has the scorched resistor coil replaced with a 302 stainless steel resistor coil. No amount of scratching, filing or Gumout will remove all of the corrosion that you see being sold on Ebay as "rebuilt", will make the switch work like new.  :rolleyes:

This is a typical 2947713 sent in for restoration... Oh, and stay away from the Chinese repops.  :stop:
Any of that electrical repop parts being imported are junk. I did a review of the E body repop somewhere on this forum that will tell the story.





























Jim
Be careful. Don't get caught drinking the Kool-Aid or believing the hype.

Caparco

Here to verify and review for jim@ JSRestorations. The pictures posted a spot on. He is passionate and talented in this field. Completely restored. We are not talkin cleaned up and sent back. Time Machine new. A fair price and fast friendly service. It's true what they say this dimmer switch kills all dash lights. It should be the first thing to look at when problems arise.
  Jim ~ thanks again for all your hard work. And great service. Everything's up and working perfectly.
It's Amazing what we can accomplish~

With just a little bit of hard work.

And a whole LOT of complaining!!... lol

moreparts

I did mine years ago.  I wish I could remember the steps, but as I recall servicing it wasn't that difficult.  What was key as I recall was getting some lubricant on the spring in there.  I think I used something like a spark plug lube.  It's been in service for at least 10 or 15 years since then and it always dims and illuminates perfectly.  A lot of people redo theirs so it's always on max, but I like a working dimming feature.  I had a spare at the time so I had some confidence going in, but I think if you're careful you should be fine.


plymth70

I got mine done at JS. he does great work.