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Most cost effective method to increaswe vacuum for power brakes

Started by 70RTSE383, June 15, 2017, 11:40:54 AM

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70RTSE383

I am considering installing a Whiplash cam to give my low compression 383 some poop. I currently have 4 wheel drums which will be upgraded in the future. I understand that this cam has very low vacuum at idle so PB won't work well under stop and go traffic. Do any of you have experience with either a vacuum reservoir, auxiliary vac pump or hydro-boost. I have a NOS Mustang hydro-boost I am considering but it will not work with front drums. It would also need some adaptation that cost $ to make it work. Just looking for something cheap and effective for the short term.

John
70' Challenger R/T SE in progress
66' Mustang fastback GT350 clone
Factory Five Cobra
70' Kawasaki H1
70' Honda CT 70

Burdar

Not sure how large of a reservoir you'd need but, I've got a 92 Dakota that had a small round reservoir on the firewall from the factory.  I wonder if that would do much of anything?  It's about the size of a softball.

https://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/FXAAAOSwKytZLhqK/s-l225.jpg

Shane Kelley

Any one of these from Summit Racing will do the trick. I just installed one this year on a big cam 383 with power brakes. The quality looks very nice and comes with all the hardware to mount.


303 Mopar

I installed a vacuum pump in my '71 Challenger because of the cam in a 408 stroker and hated it.  The only benefit was it was so loud you couldn't hear the fuel pump.  I would go with a canister, or hydraulic but that is way more expensive.   :takemymoney:

Shane Kelley

The canister works great for the money. There is a downside. If you are in slow traffic pumping the brake off and on you will run out of vacuum. You have to be cruising to build it up. Average driving it works fine. You get about 3 pumps and then your done. I guess the size of the booster could effect how many times at a stop you would get also. 

Cudakiller70

Just throwing it out there, if the vacuum cans don't work maybe convert to manual? Some prefer them.

Shane Kelley

Quote from: Cudakiller70 on June 15, 2017, 03:39:06 PM
Just throwing it out there, if the vacuum cans don't work maybe convert to manual? Some prefer them.
:iagree:  That's why I run manual brakes on my Cuda. Also don't have the big booster and master cylinder hanging out there in your way while working on the engine. Most important feature with a BB. Less clutter under the hood also.


Cudakiller70


Shane Kelley


Cudakiller70

Not brands necessarily. If you were to build a car and wanted manual brakes and it previously had power, was wondering if you knew of or have a goto list of parts or is it as simple as looking at rockauto and ordering the manual brake components?

Quote from: Shane Kelley on June 16, 2017, 09:41:42 AM
Quote from: Cudakiller70 on June 16, 2017, 08:08:10 AM
Do you @Shane Kelley have a perfered setup?
As far as what brand of brake set up?


70RTSE383

Ultimately want to have the big "mopar" brake setup specked out by a guy on another forum. Can't think of his name.
70' Challenger R/T SE in progress
66' Mustang fastback GT350 clone
Factory Five Cobra
70' Kawasaki H1
70' Honda CT 70


Burdar

Dr Diff has several brake kits available that are a great bang for your buck.  He also sells an aluminum master cylinder with a 15/16" bore for use with 4-wheel disc brakes.

70RTSE383

The cans are very cheap but have limited ability according to posts. At least some of the pumps are noisy. Are any quiet other than the MB $600 pump? For that amount I will just wait and do a Hydroboost.
Downside is it is not stock looking. Manual brakes are something I don't want to go back to.
Thinking about this I remember my first car when I was 17. 66' New Yorker 440. Going down very curvy road with steep drop-off . Motor stalls due to being out of gas. I still remember trying to stop/steer it by standing on the brakes with both feet while pulling up on the steering wheel and trying to steer. Very uncomfortable experience. If I have power brakes they must maintain power.

John
70' Challenger R/T SE in progress
66' Mustang fastback GT350 clone
Factory Five Cobra
70' Kawasaki H1
70' Honda CT 70

Shane Kelley

Quote from: Cudakiller70 on June 16, 2017, 11:14:40 AM
Not brands necessarily. If you were to build a car and wanted manual brakes and it previously had power, was wondering if you knew of or have a goto list of parts or is it as simple as looking at rockauto and ordering the manual brake components?

Quote from: Shane Kelley on June 16, 2017, 09:41:42 AM
Quote from: Cudakiller70 on June 16, 2017, 08:08:10 AM
Do you @Shane Kelley have a perfered setup?
As far as what brand of brake set up?
I think all you need is the correct rod that goes from your pedal to master cylinder. The brake lines from MS to proportioning valve will be shorter. Master cylinders are the same. I'm not sure about the support plate on the firewall. I know manuals have them but not sure about power brake booster cars. It's really pretty simple. This is the plate in question. Look and see if you have one on yours. Top pic. Bottom pic shows brake push rod for manual brakes.

Burdar

Power brake cars have that plate on the back of the booster.