Opinions Wanted: 100% Restoration vs. Modified

[B5BlueGC]

It is YOUR car, build it the way you want it.

I have a 1970 Barracuda Gran Coupe that I plan on driving and showing locally. It will not be perfect or 100% correct. The original 318 was locked up, so I decided to put in a 72 340 block with J heads and 71 exhaust manifolds, TTI exhaust, Accurate Air (original A/C car), front disk brake conversion, front sway bar, 8-3/4 rear with 3.23 gears instead of the 7-/14 with 2.73. Original steel wheel car but I went with Magnum 500 Rallye wheels. I will be changing out the flat hood for a Rallye hood in the future. Make it your own so you DRIVE it.

If you want a garage/trailer queen, go 100% stock.

[70_440-6Cuda]

Lots of good stuff here, thanks again!  I know it is totally up to me to do whatever I want but appreciate the honesty feedback.  From what I have learned over the last couple of years is I was very lucky to find the broadcast sheet, and by chance ended up with a car that has some pretty desirable options.  That being said, I believe the car will continue to appreciate over time even without the original engine IF it is built right and original.  Being non #s matching, the ending mods won't make much difference, and everything is a bolt in swap if I ever decide to go 100 point restoration.

To answer the high HP question, for me I know how I will use the car- weekend runs with the kids, maybe an occasional drive to work, local cars and coffee shows. Thing is, I absolutely LOVE the sound of a proper built engine loping through a parking lot like it is going to shake out of the engine compartment- you can tell the difference between a legit built engine and a mild cam and headers.  Reminds me of the high school drags, and the guys that would show up with their father's 10 second Camaro.  Will I ever run it the drags - maybe, if there were a track for just messing around.  Bragging rights, nah, I just want that nasty sound of a muscle car taken up a notch, will I use it - probably only enough to lite up the tires and make my kids gein stop light to stop light, but who cares, it's just for the fun of it.

@autoxcuda thanks for the details, i am definitely decided on an engine build, if you have any recommendations for a builder in SoCal let me know, would love to find someone with 3x2 carb experience so it will actually run properly 

[autoxcuda]

Lots of good stuff here, thanks again!  I know it is totally up to me to do whatever I want but appreciate the honesty feedback.  From what I have learned over the last couple of years is I was very lucky to find the broadcast sheet, and by chance ended up with a car that has some pretty desirable options.  That being said, I believe the car will continue to appreciate over time even without the original engine IF it is built right and original.  Being non #s matching, the ending mods won't make much difference, and everything is a bolt in swap if I ever decide to go 100 point restoration.

To answer the high HP question, for me I know how I will use the car- weekend runs with the kids, maybe an occasional drive to work, local cars and coffee shows. Thing is, I absolutely LOVE the sound of a proper built engine loping through a parking lot like it is going to shake out of the engine compartment- you can tell the difference between a legit built engine and a mild cam and headers.  Reminds me of the high school drags, and the guys that would show up with their father's 10 second Camaro.  Will I ever run it the drags - maybe, if there were a track for just messing around.  Bragging rights, nah, I just want that nasty sound of a muscle car taken up a notch, will I use it - probably only enough to lite up the tires and make my kids gein stop light to stop light, but who cares, it's just for the fun of it.

@autoxcuda thanks for the details, i am definitely decided on an engine build, if you have any recommendations for a builder in SoCal let me know, would love to find someone with 3x2 carb experience so it will actually run properly 

Brian and IMM Engine in Indio. He understands how to design it to run reliably on the street.

[7212Mopar]

This post was started two years ago and we still have not see any pictures on the build. I add my two cents here to help you make up your mind.

If you want the shaking sound in the parking lot, adding exhaust cutouts will help get you there mostly. Brian at IMM Engines built my stroked 340 like five plus years ago and it has been running great and strong. You can build the engine and keep everything else stock to retain the car's value if that is what you care about. The engine can also be dressed to appear stock looking. But if you want that hot and loopy cam, consider fuel injection to tune and running the engine smoothly.

[70_440-6Cuda]

@7212Mopar I have a thread here with the build progress - got slowed down a little bit due to discovery of more panels needing to be replaced so waiting on parts, everything arriving this week and will be going again hopefully next week.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/your-restoration-project-roseville-moparts/10/1970-v-code-cuda-resto/27821/

Thank you for the reference- I actually spoke to IMM and they are definitely on the list for consideration, just a bit of a trek for me, but if that's what it takes that is ok

[7212Mopar]

Thanks. Got it. You are really gutting up the fish.

[70_440-6Cuda]

Well, to be fair I only thought I was replacing the trunk floor because the car was in CA since at least 1980 and was "rust free" 

That was sort of why I gambled on it in the first place - I didnt want a basket case.  But seems that is what I got anyway, and I can't bring myself to just patch it together and cover up the already shoddy work

In the end I want to preserve the history of the car, and still make it mine.  Great feedback here to sort of confirm my plan is sound, although it seems to take on a new twist every week!

So, plan is everything as original as possible with exception of engine, trans and exhaust, and going to try to keep an original "look" there as well.  Should be a fun cruiser, sound mean and get up and go when I want it to.  I hope to get to enjoy it sooner than later but funds are running out fast with the body issues - and we havn't even got to the front half yet although found some ugly areas at the bottom of the windshield

Body man said just stop taking the paint off and I wont find any other issues

[BRNTRBR]

I am in the same dilemma with my 70 V code 'Cuda. the original motor and trans are long gone, so i've decided to do a factory appearing stroker, but where I am having real issues are deciding whether or not to keep the dual racing mirrors, an original front rubber bumper (car was a standard mirror/bumper car) and using an original set of louvers i've got for the car. oh and building a dana 60 i've got as well. The car is an original FC7, black top and shaker hood car, but its lacking those couple of options that I already have the parts to put on if i decide to do so... LA built car so no buildsheet but i do have the fender tag...

[70_440-6Cuda]

Yeah, I am worrying less and less about date codes and that type of stuff and am looking at an accurate restoration to the build sheet with the correct parts / factory appearance.  As long as it can be unbolted and the "correct parts installed then I am good with it.  The unfortunate part for me is all the metal fab I was hoping would not be needed

the mirror is sort of an irreversible add on - but still a factory option so does it really matter that much?  Those are small inconsistencies that will mean less on our cars that lack the original drivetrain.

The thing that sort of keeps me guessing on which way to go is when a car for sale gets posted on here and then the comments start about what is wrong with the car - but I think that has more to do with the asking prices and the number of items that are incorrect rather than disparaging the car itself.

I believe if I restore the car well, document everything and don't try to claim it is something it is not I am pretty safe

 

[BRNTRBR]

Exactly with the mirror, and without it the rubber bumper would be incorrect as well (painted mirrors mandatory with the bumper)...

I obviously cant share any advice because I'm in the same boat< but I can offer sympathy  haha

[HP2]

The thing that sort of keeps me guessing on which way to go is when a car for sale gets posted on here and then the comments start about what is wrong with the car - but I think that has more to do with the asking prices and the number of items that are incorrect rather than disparaging the car itself.

I believe if I restore the car well, document everything and don't try to claim it is something it is not I am pretty safe

 

Yes, the disparity you see if the difference between what it is vs what people are asking. At the extreme high end of the scale are date code restorations and extreme custom jobs done by recognized builders. When you see a solid restoration without date code correct parts and maybe a few day 2 items on it and they are asking for high end restoration prices, then yea, people will pick it apart. Teh flip side is sometimes I've seen people point out some deficiencies and then turn around and say, for a reasonable asking price, its worth buying and driving teh tires off it.

[Chryco Psycho]

WhAt I did with mine was 512 stroker 6 pack , ported heads factory 915s for the closed chamber , ported intake & exhaust manifolds + I used the Direct Connection all manual 6 pack mechanical outboards with accelerator pumps on every carb for faster response , but hey it "looks stock"

[7E-Bodies]

As I continue on with my 70 RT, I stay as close as possible to original and correct due to the oddity of the way the car was ordered. That being said, a few items were missing/not original. The typical core charge items that few cared about in the 70's and after. I ended up paying $1,000 for the correct alternator, $500 for my original distributor rebuild (Joe's Distributor's is fantastic), $500 for my original carb rebuild/restoration, on and on and on. And until I find a correct 70 starter, the restored 73 unit is fine. Same with the water pump. In short, I've resolved that "if it bolts on, don't get hung up on it". Move on and deal with it later.