POR 15

cuda hunter · December 28, 2019, 12:09:04 PM

opinions on POR 15 please.

Mostly asking as on another forum someone else is considering putting por15 on under everything.
I've had por experiences with the stuff. Rust came through the por15. The surface was definitely clean and prepped properly. Painted immediately after prep.

What do you guys think? Good for underbody? engine bay? floors? under main paint?

RUNCHARGER · December 28, 2019, 12:28:21 PM

Honestly I hate that stuff or any other miracle coatings. I've had two cars that had that stuff applied by previous owners and I sold them both because of it.

Rich G. · December 28, 2019, 12:42:04 PM

I've used it on a corvette frame that I had blasted. It's probably good for bumper brackets , K frame and stuff like that. I wouldn't use it on any body panels. Definitely needs to be prepped properly or it will peel right off.

Brads70 · December 28, 2019, 12:53:50 PM

I haven't had positive experiences with it either.....

edison1970 · December 28, 2019, 02:11:42 PM

I coated my floors with it. I don't think it's as good as it was 30 years ago. I remember buying some at the Englishtown Swap meet back in the 80's. You could coat a piece of metal with and wack it wit a hammer and it wouldn't come off.

Lodicub · December 28, 2019, 07:36:26 PM

What is a good durable and chemical resistant paint for chassis and suspension components?

Topcat · December 28, 2019, 09:13:20 PM

Quote from: Lodicub on December 28, 2019, 07:36:26 PM
What is a good durable and chemical resistant paint for chassis and suspension components?

Rust Bullet is a Silverish/Grey.

Sands a little easier as well to top coat with regular paint. .

Dakota · December 29, 2019, 03:22:13 AM

I used POR 15 on my interior floors. I did one coat initially which looked great for the first year or so. With time, the surface started to get rough (rust underneath?). I ended up scuffing it, applying their primer, and putting a 2nd coat on it. The second coat has held up well.

Since POR 15, as I understand it, doesn't hold up well when exposed to sunlight, I used Rust Bullet on the underside of the car - silver first then a black top coat. It was a bear to apply by brush without a rotisserie, but it seems to have held up well. Once a can of Rust Bullet is opened, it will keep reacting with moisture in the air and will solidify if you don't purge the vapor space in the can with Bloxygen or something similar (don't ask me how I know).

As with any paint product, following the surface prep instructions is critical. I put a 2nd coat of the Rust Bullet black topcoat on outside of the recoat time guidelines without scuffing. The 2nd coat separated and peeled off like a shredded plastic grocery bag. That happened a year ago and as recently as last week I found another fragment in the carpet in our house - not good.

chargerdon · December 29, 2019, 05:34:20 AM

its funny stuff... I used it on my 66 Charger... anywhere there was rust (except not on any exterior panels), trunk floor, interior floor, etc. Didnt sand the surfaces clean, just knocked off the rust and it worked... I.e stayed on and have not seen any rust come back !

So, i thought this stuff is great... when i put in a new floor on drivers side, i then painted it with POR 15... Mistake...it peeled off in places...apparently the stuff works best covering up rust, but, on new surface it doesn't stick properly..

I hate the stuff otherwise, definitely wear a good pair of rubber gloves, as if you get in on your skin...you almost have to let it wear off as nothing removes it without tons of scrubbing..

I also have used a product called Chassis Saver...with similar results...i.e works best over a rusty surface...

392 Cuda · December 29, 2019, 08:54:07 AM

I've used POR 15 a few places, including 2 gas tanks. I just pulled the tank off my a-body after ~20 years and it held up well. I had also done the bottom of the car in the tank area, and it still looks like I just painted it.

It is nasty stuff, though. I decided not to use on my 74 as I'm afraid it won't come off when it's time for paint in a few years. Hopefully the rustoleum holds up for a few years and can be sandblasted off without taking the metal.

BIGSHCLUNK · December 29, 2019, 09:06:48 AM

I've used it on a few things years ago, it's holding up very well. Prep is the thing. BUT I will say I've seen a few things that were to far gone an people used it anyway.... praying for a miracle I guess

MEK-Dangerous · December 29, 2019, 09:55:12 AM

My only experience with POR 15 was painting an engine block. So, I guess you aren't talking about paint, but some coating?

I'll just tell you, the paint is awesome. It takes 2 coats, but you really do need to do the prep work first. After degreasing, they gave some kind of acid wash.

greentween · December 30, 2019, 07:55:25 AM

It has worked well for me. I did the complete underside 15yrs ago. I did sandblast it first. Metal needs tooth in it for it to stick permanent plus the acid wash. I've used it by brush and also spraying. Both work well. Multiple coats need to be timed correctly if you don't want to sand in between the coats.

Topcat · January 01, 2020, 05:09:06 PM

Rust Bullet sprayed out well.

Like what was said earlier; it doesn't store well to use later.

Main location I used it on was the inside portion of the roof.

kawahonda · January 01, 2020, 06:07:46 PM

I do not like POR 15. It's a mess. It's a pain in the ass to remove. I never liked like the idea of "painting over" rust.

What I (and many) do now is use a rust converter. Piclex 20 is a good product I've used in the past. Rust Mort is another popular product which I use now. These products are basically phosphoric acid. Rusted areas act like a "wick". You basically apply it on with a paintbrush in a very light film, let it soak, then wash it off. They turn the rusted areas black and leaves a zinc coating. That is basically the "conversion" process. Once treated properly, these areas can be painted over with any normal method of paintwork and will last. In-fact, it turns the area "harder" than it was before.

This is a much more preferable and acceptable process than just slabbing POR 15 on stuff. Por 15 basically has phosphoric acid in the paint, so it kinda acts as an "all in one" type thing. Well, that would be great in theory, but you can't see if it works, and the paint is too thick and messy for my liking. Seems to me like a good product to use on outside farm equipment though.

As always, flakey, rusty stuff should always be removed. But sometimes, it doesn't make sense to cut out a piece that has some light surface pitting. I wire-wheel as much as I can, then use a rust converter. It makes for a grade-A repair.