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Rear Sway bar bushings

Started by Rbob, October 30, 2020, 10:43:57 AM

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Rbob

Getting these bushings out suck, any pros here?  The circled one:


Burdar

Drill out the two spot welds that hold the strap to the frame bracket. 

Rich G.

Does anyone reproduce those bushings anymore?


7212Mopar

If you don't need it factory correct, poly will be cheaper and better performing alternative. Don't think they have the back reproduced.
1973 Challenger Rallye, 416 AT
2012 Challenger SRT8 6 speed Yellow Jacket

76orangewagon

What Burder said is the best way....Drill out the Spot Welds, from the back side of the strap so it's easier to grind the welds down later and still look original from the outside. I soaked my bushings in BP Blaster for a day and they were very soft and pliable like new. Don't soak them to long or they will swell up too big and not be tight on the bar once reassembled.

Rbob


76orangewagon

Heres some pictures I took during the process I described above....also repaired the rot and now it looks new and still shows has that Pentastar and part number.


Mrbill426


Rbob


Mrbill426

I may have to attempt to do mine because there does not seem to be a OE type repo of these rear bar setups.  Mine appears to be twisted though as the ends where the links attach are not on the same plain.  :huh: UNLESS.. one (OE) link is longer than the other?  :dunno:  My old links are long gone to the trash. 



Quote from: Rbob on October 30, 2020, 10:43:57 AM
Getting these bushings out suck, any pros here?  The circled one:

Jay Bee

By no means am I a pro but I have separated the bushing from the bracket. It's been a while ago that I originally did these, here's what I remember.

All the rust between the rubber and steel had to be broken/softened/removed whatever. I don't really know how to explain that. I used various flat blade screwdrivers to work WD40 (and any lubricant I had on hand) in between the bushing and bracket from both sides. Eventually the rubber broke free from the steel and a combination of pushing and pulling got it out of the bracket. By "pulling" I mean I used the flat blade screwdrivers like a lever. You can see the minor damage this caused on the top of the bushing. For fun I went downstairs and just removed one for the pictures.

There's some great info in the following thread if you haven't seen it.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/rear-sway-bar-bushings/10579/


Mrbill426

@Jay Bee  Interesting... I might have to give that a whirl if my bar turns out to not actually be bent.




Quote from: Jay Bee on October 31, 2020, 07:08:16 AM
By no means am I a pro but I have separated the bushing from the bracket. It's been a while ago that I originally did these, here's what I remember.

All the rust between the rubber and steel had to be broken/softened/removed whatever. I don't really know how to explain that. I used various flat blade screwdrivers to work WD40 (and any lubricant I had on hand) in between the bushing and bracket from both sides. Eventually the rubber broke free from the steel and a combination of pushing and pulling got it out of the bracket. By "pulling" I mean I used the flat blade screwdrivers like a lever. You can see the minor damage this caused on the top of the bushing. For fun I went downstairs and just removed one for the pictures.

There's some great info in the following thread if you haven't seen it.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/rear-sway-bar-bushings/10579/

Rbob

After Blasting I drilled out one weld, that will allow re-install of oem bushing. Thanks for the tip!