Restoration Guidance - OEM vs Aftermarket & Maintaining Value

[70_440-6Cuda]

Having recently purchased my first MOPAR in many years and with the crazy prices over the last several years I am looking to this group for some advice for my restoration.  Working on a '70 'Cuda numbers matching 440-6 barrel that needs some attention to bring it back to original specs.  I have the broadcast sheet, although the fender tag is gone.  Totally rust free with what appears to be original sheet metal except front fenders and hood (they are 'glass).  Also, aside from the front buckets, the interior also looks to be fairly unmolested.  I intend to keep this car to pass on to my kids and have no intention of selling it.  I intend to make the car as original as I can and will be doing all of the work myself - this is not going to be a $250K, 100 point trailer queen restoration.  That being said, I want to maintain the integrity of the car and add to the value wherever I can for long term investment.

Regarding parts selection is there a point of diminishing returns searching for original Chrysler parts vs. aftermarket?  There are many members here that are sticklers for originality so when are aftermarket parts appropriate instead of NOS or used, restored parts?  For example, am I wasting my time restoring the original '70 seat tracks I hunted down when I can just buy a set of re-pops?  Will original, correct date coded wheels make that much difference in value as opposed to aftermarket?  What about unseen parts such as window regulators, wiring, seat stops and latches etc?  I actually enjoy hunting down the correct date coded parts and learning all the details that make my car "correct" but as you all know, original parts are stupid expensive and if it does not add any real value I would prefer to put the money into other areas of the car. 

I am trying to understand what makes some of these cars so valuable vs. others aside from the original Hemi's etc.  I have seen links on this site to many cars for sale and comments re: the asking price being too high considering the many "discrepancies" from original.  I understand that these cars are worth what someone is willing to pay and all that - I am looking for an education on what adds value as well as what makes little to no difference when using quality aftermarket parts, or does none of it make any difference as long as you have a desirable original engine combination, broadcast sheet and a clean well done restoration?  I am hoping some of you can give some insight as it seems many members here have been following these cars, and the market, for a long time.

[autoxcuda]

Having recently purchased my first MOPAR in many years and with the crazy prices over the last several years I am looking to this group for some advice for my restoration.  Working on a '70 'Cuda numbers matching 440-6 barrel that needs some attention to bring it back to original specs.  I have the broadcast sheet, although the fender tag is gone.  The car is an N95 CA car, totally rust free with what appears to be original sheet metal except front fenders and hood (they are 'glass).  Also, aside from the front buckets, the interior also looks to be fairly unmolested.  I intend to keep this car to pass on to my kids and have no intention of selling it.  I intend to make the car as original as I can and will be doing all of the work myself - this is not going to be a $250K, 100 point trailer queen restoration.  That being said, I want to maintain the integrity of the car and add to the value wherever I can for long term investment.

Regarding parts selection is there a point of diminishing returns searching for original Chrysler parts vs. aftermarket?  There are many members here that are sticklers for originality so when are aftermarket parts appropriate instead of NOS or used, restored parts?  For example, am I wasting my time restoring the original '70 seat tracks I hunted down when I can just buy a set of re-pops?  Will original, correct date coded wheels make that much difference in value as opposed to aftermarket?  What about unseen parts such as window regulators, wiring, seat stops and latches etc?  I actually enjoy hunting down the correct date coded parts and learning all the details that make my car "correct" but as you all know, original parts are stupid expensive and if it does not add any real value I would prefer to put the money into other areas of the car. 

I am trying to understand what makes some of these cars so valuable vs. others aside from the original Hemi's etc.  I have seen links on this site to many cars for sale and comments re: the asking price being too high considering the many "discrepancies" from original.  I understand that these cars are worth what someone is willing to pay and all that - I am looking for an education on what adds value as well as what makes little to no difference when using quality aftermarket parts, or does none of it make any difference as long as you have a desirable original engine combination, broadcast sheet and a clean well done restoration?  I am hoping some of you can give some insight as it seems many members here have been following these cars, and the market, for a long time.

Very good question.

I think a lot has to do what the overall you are looking for out of this car as an overall finished product. Another is understanding consistency and being consistent. Also, understanding the part quality differences themselves: NOS, repro, used, refurbished used.

Is this car going to have a complete resto? Are you changing the hood and fenders then having the whole car just repainted?

I get this idea that you are doing as "as you go" type restoration/refurbish?? IMHO you pick you battles and go for area with most impact. Original seat tracks vs repro: not much visual impact. Just make sure the repros function properly, look close to original, and will last.  M&H wiring repo harnesses are very good quality, but you need to determine if you can fix your existing or just refurbish/rejuvenate it. Window regulators: investigate if just need maintenance, check if repros are good quality.

Repro fenders. Do your homework. Some are not as good as others. Even side to side quality can very. I think it's Challenger that one side is worse than other?

From the sounds of it, I think you can get to where I think you headed with mostly good used and repro parts. Maybe NOS when carefully bought near the same price a restoring your old part or buying the part used and then restoring it.

If you want good quality used parts, you need to hit he local shows with swap meets. We just had Mopars In May in Ontario, next up is Fall Fling in Van Nuys. I'd suggest going a local club and get connected and start networking.

[70_440-6Cuda]

Great advice on the networking - thank you. 

As for overall finished product I want the car to be "correct" - I found the right '70 seats, but they need to be reconditioned and I don't want to go down a rabbit hole on every detail.  I also bought a a set of original marker lights for when the time comes.  Again, not building a 100 point show car, but do want to maximize the car's value where it makes sense.  Sounds like a common sense approach and doing your homework is key - Some of the bigger questions are aftermarket vs. reconditioned original door panels, things like that. 

Thank you for the feedback - I will try to hit Van Nuys and see what I can find - any club recommendations in SoCal anyone?

[Mr Cuda]

Repowered 318 barracuda,  or top dog Cuda.  I love these cars for what they are.
However,  now it's become apparent that the fender tag is where the value is at.
  I wouldn't put aftermarket parts on unless I had to.  Obviously,  qtr panels,  floor plans and such leave you with no choice.  But I would rather patch a door, repair a fender, glue a grill than buy reproduction.
To be fair, we have gotten to the 2-3rd interations of repro parts, and some are quite good.
Having a 6bbl with build sheet would have me leaning towards factory parts.
  Seat track are probably a non issue, rugs, upholstery are standard in everyone's cars. Door panels have become  decent.  But aftermarket metal still has issues.

[autoxcuda]

Great advice on the networking - thank you. 

As for overall finished product I want the car to be "correct" - I found the right '70 seats, but they need to be reconditioned and I don't want to go down a rabbit hole on every detail.  I also bought a a set of original marker lights for when the time comes.  Again, not building a 100 point show car, but do want to maximize the car's value where it makes sense.  Sounds like a common sense approach and doing your homework is key - Some of the bigger questions are aftermarket vs. reconditioned original door panels, things like that. 

Thank you for the feedback - I will try to hit Van Nuys and see what I can find - any club recommendations in SoCal anyone?

Where are you located:

For North Orange county and LA basin, I would suggest South Bay Mopars http://www.southbaymopars.com/

For Inland Empire: https://inlandmopars.org/

For San Gabriel Valley, San Fernando Valley, Santa Clarita, Ventura CO I'd recommend our club: www.cpwclub.com

[autoxcuda]

Great advice on the networking - thank you. 

As for overall finished product I want the car to be "correct" - I found the right '70 seats, but they need to be reconditioned and I don't want to go down a rabbit hole on every detail.  I also bought a a set of original marker lights for when the time comes.  Again, not building a 100 point show car, but do want to maximize the car's value where it makes sense.  Sounds like a common sense approach and doing your homework is key - Some of the bigger questions are aftermarket vs. reconditioned original door panels, things like that. 

Thank you for the feedback - I will try to hit Van Nuys and see what I can find - any club recommendations in SoCal anyone?

IMHO, if you not doing a 100 point show car. Then just buy Repro 450 15x7 rims. But if even if you are buying repro to be consistent you've gotta have repro F60-15 Polyglass tires.

Are you door panel just faded? Caulked up?... if just faded paint them SEM Landau black. They will have the crispness of originals and fit correctly.

I can see in another post you are looking for an original E-body Dana. Again, without a full resto breaking the car down to a basic shell I don't see this maximizing value.


Have you done an "End Game" analysis on this car. Like if it was very nicely restored but not completely Gold OE standard... What would it be worth today?

IIRC the basics of your 70 Cuda is: 440-6, auto?, TX9, super track pack 4.10, has buildsheet, no fender tag, cowl and rad support #'s match, #'s matching motor, ?#s matching trans?

[anlauto]

  I think you have a cool car, but I don't think it's worth throwing away money at it to use all correct original parts, unless it's completely numbers matching, not messed with numbers wise, and your plan is a 1000 point OE Gold resto...if it's not, then you're wasting money hunting down $4000 date coded 450 rims...$5000 dana, etc...Just put it together, back to original, the most economical way you can, and enjoy it...it will never be a top dollar car...There's a lot of better 70 V code Cudas out there

[autoxcuda]

I think you have a cool car, but I don't think it's worth throwing away money at it to use all correct original parts, unless it's completely numbers matching, not messed with numbers wise, and your plan is a 1000 point OE Gold resto...if it's not, then you're wasting money hunting down $4000 date coded 450 rims...$5000 dana, etc...Just put it together, back to original, the most economical way you can, and enjoy it...it will never be a top dollar car...There's a lot of better 70 V code Cudas out there

It sounds all numbers matching except for fender tag (a big deal) and transmission #'s TBD?

Now, a black V-code cuda, leather, with Dana is pretty cool. I'm V-code 4spds w/ shakers and/or rubber bumpers also with very good color would trump it. They made 902 4-spd hardtops

So, what's a top dollar V-code 70 Cuda hardtop bring nowadays?  Same, more, or less than a top dollar 70 AAR?

[anlauto]

I would say a non-shaker black V-code 70 Cuda will still pull six figures, but in order to do so, in my opinion, would require a full ground up restoration, which would cost six figures

[RUNCHARGER]

The fender tag isn't a big deal at all, you have a build sheet and the sheet trumps a tag any day.
Aftermarket parts can cost the same as original parts, one thing though, they generally don't fit.
No need for NOS, I prefer using good, original parts when I can find them.
If your car is supposed to have a Dana you can spend $3k on a wrong one or maybe $500-$1000 more for the right one. It IS a big deal.
Door panels, they make good repros, just check with guys here and go with their recommendation. You won't find NOS ones and most of the used door panels are scuffed up so in this case I think good repros (not Palco) are the way to go.
So, as you can see it can be a case by case issue.
Personally I hate seeing people spend good money to make a rare (your's is) and desirable car wrong. However I personally will run a set of radials over repop Polyglas GT's anyday as these cars drive so much better with radials. Fenders for your car though, I would at least try to find some nice fitting originals.
I fairly recently restored 2 Challengers, I ordered quite a few repro parts and after waiting months for them a lot of them ended up in the garbage and I cleaned up, finished and installed used parts I had or acquired instead.
I also worked selling repro parts fairly recently, I've dealt with these cars for 50 years now and I cringed sending some of the repro junk out, a lot of guys don't know better though and are happy with a shiny new part.

[70_440-6Cuda]

I will eventually break the car down to a shell and have it painted correctly in the original color.  In the meantime, I want to collect the right parts and prefer the OEM stuff to repro if I can get it.  To be honest, I have ZERO idea what the car is worth because the prices I see are all over the place - clones and non #s matching cars with price tags in the $150K range - are they getting it is another story and did they spend $300K to get there?

I do have a broadcast sheet so I was pretty excited about that, but how much does the missing fender tag affect the value?  I think right now, the plan is some repro 450s and Dana, new carpet, seat upholstery, seat belts, dash pad and send out my steering wheel to D. Lepak.  Make the inside clean, update the rear end to be correct, new wheels and tires and drop a stock hood I have on the car, painted black, until I decide to take it down to the shell and redo everything.

I truly appreciate all of the feedback, guidance and input - very helpful in keeping me on the rails! @autoxcuda you are correct, 440-6 auto, Super Trak Pack 4.10 Dana, TX9, #'s matching engine, trans TBD, Rallye dash, overhead console, power front discs, broadcast sheet, no fender tag, body #s all match (cowl / radiator).

So, the big question is, what should I expect it to be worth painted the correct color and accurately restored (combination original / repro parts)?

Also, who do you recommend for the 450s and the Dana?  I saw Tonys has the wheels, any feedback?

[autoxcuda]

The fender tag isn't a big deal at all, you have a build sheet and the sheet trumps a tag any day.
Aftermarket parts can cost the same as original parts, one thing though, they generally don't fit.
No need for NOS, I prefer using good, original parts when I can find them.
If your car is supposed to have a Dana you can spend $3k on a wrong one or maybe $500-$1000 more for the right one. It IS a big deal.
Door panels, they make good repros, just check with guys here and go with their recommendation. You won't find NOS ones and most of the used door panels are scuffed up so in this case I think good repros (not Palco) are the way to go.
So, as you can see it can be a case by case issue.
Personally I hate seeing people spend good money to make a rare (your's is) and desirable car wrong. However I personally will run a set of radials over repop Polyglas GT's anyday as these cars drive so much better with radials. Fenders for your car though, I would at least try to find some nice fitting originals.
I fairly recently restored 2 Challengers, I ordered quite a few repro parts and after waiting months for them a lot of them ended up in the garbage and I cleaned up, finished and installed used parts I had or acquired instead.
I also worked selling repro parts fairly recently, I've dealt with these cars for 50 years now and I cringed sending some of the repro junk out, a lot of guys don't know better though and are happy with a shiny new part.

If it's only 500-1000 more for a E-body Dana vs a 68-70 B-body Dana, yes I would buy the right one. But someone mentioned $10K for an E-body Dana. Well, at $10K I'd think I'd buy a $3K 68-70 one.

Need to evaluate what condition the current door panels are in. I've seen people replace originals when they just needed some restoration and skill.

Well, I don't see spending big bucks money for original 450 rims and then putting radials. Maybe repro 450's.

Yes, some repro fenders aren't great. But I think some are worse than others. I thought the Challenger AMD's were worse than the Cuda AMD's?? And one side was worse than others??  Alan, I bet has put on many of all kinds. Alan how are Cuda repro fenders?

Being this Cuda is complete going by some of the description. I get the impression there's some good bones to it. Just been Hot Rodded and things fixed up to a quality level common to 30 years ago.

[anlauto]

TONY's Parts is the ones having the 450's made, so no reason to go anywhere else.

[70_440-6Cuda]

@autoxcuda and @RUNCHARGER thanks for the info; I think the car has great bones, and totally agree I am not the "shiny new part" guy - I like originality over shiny and my impression is exactly that - hot rodded in the style of 30 years ago.  And my title was misleading originally, I meant OEM, not NOS.  I think the 450s are probably not worth the cost for originals, if they can even be found.  The Dana I would spend a few bucks extra for the right one, but not $10k.  And while I love the look of the Polyglas tires, I do want to drive it so probably will go  with some radials but we will see.

Any idea what the car should be worth if it was correct color and accurately redone?  Obviously that is subjective, but helps in planning where I spend my money

[RUNCHARGER]

It sounds like you're pointed in exactly the direction I would be. I've seen E-body Dana's for $3k and up, you don't need it right now so I'd have the cash available to pounce on a well priced one when it comes up, it might be 2 years from now and that's okay. I too would go the repro 450 wheels from Tony's, Originals are just too much $$$ and from what I've heard Tony's look fine especially if you're not wasting time looking for date coded Polyglas GT's.
Value? It will be different by the time you get it painted so it's almost irrelevent. Lately I've seen a few V-Code 70 Cuda's that look pretty amateurish for $100k and up. I think you will finish this car better than amateurish so maybe easily sellable for $110k in todays market?
If you have the buildsheet you can get a repro fender tag made but if you do this I would get a real expert on tags to help you with the layout and if you ever get into a discussion about the tag you've always got the sheet for the final say.