So now that the FISH is out of the bag... :)

[Bullitt-]

Think this is it. Reference is for a 318 & I believe the carb to be a Holley  ..
You see the flat bar on yours is all wrong as well as spring setup.. Hing should be straight up & down at rest.

Maybe use the Lokar set up? 

Probably easier than tracking down the missing components & would work on any upgrades in the future..

[PLY474]

1974 2bbl setup.  Not sure if this helps or not.

[ViperMan]

1974 2bbl setup.  Not sure if this helps or not.

It does!!!  Thank you!  That looks just like mine.  So yeah whatever boob went and put the new carb on (not the previous owner) didn't pay attention to what he/she took apart.

So I'm missing the clip on the end of the pin that holds the two brackets together.  Is there an easy source to get these?  I really don't remember seeing the groove to hold the clip - I sure hope it isn't sheered or cut off or something...

[Chryco Psycho]

Clip is no problem , parts stores should have them

[Spikedog08]

Clip is no problem , parts stores should have them

I was going to say that I think my local hardware store has clips like that . . . 

[ViperMan]

Okay so I should be able to sort that stuff out this weekend.

Next question - the charging system.  I know that, since the charging system runs through the ammeter, I believe that's what causes the brightening and dimming of lights when at idle.  Isn't there some way to "fix" that?  Because this has a bigger cam, I know it's going to lop at least a little bit at idle (once I have that set correctly) so I'd like for my lights to not sit there and flicker when I'm at a red light or something...

[Cudajason]

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Try this!!!

[Chryco Psycho]

the lights dimming is just alt speed , nothing to do with the ammeter

[chargerdon]

the lights dimming is just alt speed , nothing to do with the ammeter

True...its the alternator not putting out full power at idle...  BUT THAT is what a battery is for !!   I.e. to power everything when alternator isn't putting out full power at idle.    Your battery may either be getting ready to die, or is of low capacity...or possibly the regulator isnt allowing the alternator to fully charge the battery when running well. 

[MEK-Dangerous]

Another option might be installing a bigger pulley on the alternator. That way, it's turning faster at idle.

I have never done this myself, so I don't know if there is a down side to doing this. I don't see one myself.

[Chryco Psycho]

I believe yo mean a smaller pulley

[blown motor]

 

[ViperMan]

Both of those make sense - fresh battery (there's some corrosion on my terminals so it is probably pretty old) and possibly a smaller alternator pulley.

OH MAN isn't this fun, talking e-body shop again?!?! 

[Spikedog08]

You are too funny . . Time to change your name to Cudadork!   

[YellowThumper]

Yes there are many 74 specific changes.
Small in the scheme of things but many.
The shoulder belts yes are 74 only. As is the connected ratcheting mechanism. And where they come out of the rear seat side panel. The seatbelts are fairly rare because of only the 1/2 year production when Mopar killed it.

The 2 knobs in center of dash are fresh air levers. Tje non air cars get fresh air openings on both sides. Air conditioning cars did not get the drivers side opening.
Let me know if there is anything I can help with. Challenger but is a 74.
I also concur with above noted hydroboost conversion. That is route I went.
Definately check alternator output at idle. If you have the lopy idle it can vary output enough at idle to increase and decrease light output. Suggest also changing them to be run with relays instead of thru on off switch as that is also susceptible to issues.

Details details details...
Mike.