T/A freshening

[Arctoad]

This winter I'm hoping to pull the motor and trans out of my car and deal with the Engine bay and a few other things.
Since I've been a member here, I have learn't quite a few processes that have saved time but most of all the methods that give the best results for a great product!
I'm reaching out to all of you Mopar Father's in hopes that there may be a video of a drive train extraction.
Cody you spend so much of your time I'm sure, creating awesome videos. I have a pretty good idea of the process, but I know there's an easy way to do things, and for the inexperienced, the "knuckle head" way to do things.
Thanks all,

[anlauto]

Is your plan to get into the front suspension as well, or just the engine and transmission ?
Reason I ask, is because it's a lot simpler to go out the bottom.

[Arctoad]

Thanks for asking, this is why I've thrown this out there. Is it more efficient to drop the "K" member down with the motor, or pull the motor first and then the suspension?
To be honest, I am planning on Posting the car for sale in the Spring to Summer.. The front Suspension has been worked on, I'm guessing a few years ago. This is a good driver condition car but not sure if I can bring the car up to a level of intermediate show quality.

[anlauto]

It's more involved obviously to drop the K Frame out at the same time, but if your intentions were to clean/restore the suspension at the same time, then it's a no brainer to go out the bottom in my opinion.

[RUNCHARGER]

Yes: Drop it out the bottom. I assume you are going to refinish everything including the K-member and suspension? I would pull the front fenders first with the idea of refinishing the front aprons inside and out as well if it were mine. Not sure how complete a job you're going for though.

[Arctoad]

Yes, in fact I was thinking of replacing inner fenders.
So on the decision of dropping out the bottom, do I lift the front of the body up? say with an Engine hoist?

[Katfish]

Following along, assume going out bottom is best option for a Gen3 swap.
I'd like to know the steps too

[Chryco Psycho]

Very simple really , remove the steering column I usually split the lower ball joint / unbolt them , & remove throttle cable & wiring , remove rad & hoses slide the torsion bars back , remove driveshaft , undo the k frame , good to use a dolly  to sit the k frame & engine on & if you use axle stands under the front of the leaf springs the nose of the car can be lifted by hand , using your legs ,while you roll out the k frame & engine trans assy , can be done in 90 mins easily

[Arctoad]

 

[anlauto]

Yes, in fact I was thinking of replacing inner fenders.
So on the decision of dropping out the bottom, do I lift the front of the body up? say with an Engine hoist?

Sounds like a big SNOWBALL coming....

[anlauto]

I agree with Mr. Psycho and want to add that the exhaust can be a pain too. Seeing how you have a T/A you can remove the complete exhaust as two pieces  pretty easily first.

[Arctoad]

Kinda what I was hoping

[ClarkWGrizwald]

Very simple really , remove the steering column I usually split the lower ball joint / unbolt them , & remove throttle cable & wiring , remove rad & hoses slide the torsion bars back , remove driveshaft , undo the k frame , good to use a dolly  to sit the k frame & engine on & if you use axle stands under the front of the leaf springs the nose of the car can be lifted by hand , using your legs ,while you roll out the k frame & engine trans assy , can be done in 90 mins easily

Lifted by hand?? Really? I expected it to be heavier than that.  I assume you chalk the rear wheels?  If it's that light, then making a temporary support out of 2x4s or something isn't out of the question.

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

[Burdar]

& if you use axle stands under the front of the leaf springs the nose of the car can be lifted by hand

This is the main point from his post.  He is saying that you have to use jack stands under the front spring eye to get enough leverage to lift the front by hand.  You can not do it by hand with the rear tires on the ground. 

The jack stands made me nervous.  I was afraid the car would slide off of them.  The only way I felt comfortable was with the wheels on the ground and an engine hoist to lift the front.  I used an old set of bumper brackets to mount the chain to on my Challenger.  On my Dart, I just used some 1/4" angle iron mounted to the bumper bracket holes.

[anlauto]

I agree with Darren, rear wheels on the ground is the safest