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A couple wiring questions for the experts/experienced

Started by DodgeGuy, April 21, 2018, 10:34:22 AM

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DodgeGuy

Long story short:

I had charging system issues.  As part of this as a stopgap measure I decided to do the modification recommended here of bypassing the bulkhead connector/ammeter.  So, I ran a 10 gauge wire from the alternator stud directly to the positive connector on the starter relay.

I also put both wires from the ammeter onto one of the ammeter studs.

So, to my questions:

1. What do I do with the old alternator stud wire that feeds into the bulkhead connector?  Would that not be a "hot wire" since it's technically still hooked into the circuit?  I thought I read here somewhere that someone suggested actually connecting it into the hot wire that comes off the starter relay and hooks into the ammeter.


I also ordered a complete new engine wiring harness , forward lamp harness, and am going to order the dash harness that includes the new bulkhead connectors with updated fuse panel/box. 

These are the "plug and play" harnesses that come from YearOne that M&H Wiring manufacture (after my research here and elsewhere, they seemed like an excellent choice) to duplicate the OEM factory harnesses.  So, my 2nd question:

If I install these to replace the old wiring that's already there, can I eliminate the ammeter bypass" that I just did, which would allow the factory ammeter to be usable again?  With all of this new wiring, new fusebox, and new bulkhead connectors, would this still be a "weakpoint" susceptible to failure and/or fires/meltdowns?

Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.  As I said, this board is an absolute goldmine.  I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge and the willingness for the people here to take the time to offer their expertise and advice.  I'm hoping as I get back into all of this after 20+ years away, I will eventually be able to help others as well.  (I've learned/re-learned a TON in the last week alone!)
1974 Dodge Challenger Rallye
360 4Barrel HP
Factory 4-Speed

1 Wild R/T

The original alternator wire will still be feeding the loads, leave it, you could eliminate it but then all the loads would be fed only from the fusible link at the starter relay stud.... Spreading the loads means less draw through a single terminal at the bulkhead connector....

With the new harnesses you could go back to how Chrysler originally intended but honestly it was a poor design from the start... All the current from the alternator has to pass through the bulkhead in to be measured by the ammeter then back out too the battery.... Each connection adds resistance  which creates heat......


If I were you I'd replace the ammeter with a voltmeter and leave the bypass in place....  I would also add relays for the headlights...

Chryco Psycho

I agree with Wild
Leave the bypass in place & leave the hot wire feed into the car connected as well even with the new harness .
You can switch to a voltmeter or you can connect across the ammeter again as the load is minimal but the needle will still deflect slightly .


DodgeGuy

Thanks guys!!  That makes sense.

I'm starting the "tear down" of the old wiring, making sure I label everything and take notes on things, so when it all goes back together I hopefully have it all covered.


Wish me luck!!

The trick here is that I ordered the factory OEM harness, but with the aftermarket mods I'm going to have to "blend them" the way they are now, the big difference being it will be all new wiring, and no "cob jobs" as my Grandpa always used to call them.  I have to shake my head that the people before me who had some a nice, classic car did such a poor job with the wiring. :pullinghair:
1974 Dodge Challenger Rallye
360 4Barrel HP
Factory 4-Speed