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Alternator died... Any low cost upgrades?

Started by FSHTAIL, August 18, 2017, 11:15:49 PM

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FSHTAIL

My alternator died on me tonight and ran me down to candle light status on the ride home..
I was highbeamed a few times so I pulled off the freeway to a gas station..   
I noticed all my lights were super dim..      I go to kick it over and its tapped..
I push started it and popped the clutch and drove the remaining 2 city blocks home.. 
There was next to nothing in her by the time I got it into the garage..

I have plans for electrical cooling fans and other things of that nature in the future and my headlights were already flickering at idle.

Is there something that can be swapped in to kick it up to 100+ amps that's internally regulated?

A friend of mine mentioned swapping in a Nippendenso into his Lil Red maybe a decade ago, but couldn't remember specifics other than the alt being from a early 90's Toyota pickup but has long since sold it..

I'm not too worried about originality, purely function..

Google didn't send me in a solid direction of using this or this..   

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.. 

1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

1 Wild R/T

AR Engineering makes brackets to mount a Denso, Andy suggests using a specific 60 amp unit but there's a 120 amp available in the same frame.... However if your gonna use it you NEED to upgrade the wiring....

http://arengineering.com/products/denso-60-amp-kit-for-small-blocks/

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR-Fits-TOYOTA-T-100-PICKUP-4RUNNER-3-0L-V6-1993-1995-120AMP/251195938420?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

FSHTAIL

Oh wow.     
Upgrade the wiring from the ALT to the battery?     Thicker gauge?

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)


FSHTAIL

Or upgrade all of the wiring in the car?

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

1 Wild R/T

Currently your alternator doesn't connect directly to the battery... It feeds through the bulkhead connector to the ammeter, through the ammeter, back through the bulkhead connector then through the fusible link & finally to the battery....Each connection adds resistance & heat.....

Swap the Ammeter for a volt meter, run a direct lead from the alternator to the starter relay battery connection....  Now, fix some of the other common issues... Add headlight relays.... Add a high blower relay... If you add electric fans they need to be on relays too....   

Most of the wiring if it's in good shape can stay.....

Brads70

1 Wild R/T has great advice and is likely the best solution for you. If you are adding a bunch of electrical add ons  and need more than the 120 amps, I went with this alternator in the 250 amp version. It's not cheap but I had thoughts of someday upgrading to FI and along with my various other electrical add ons figured I'd bite the bullet and do it once. It's been on the car 4-5 years now with no issues, I'm happy with it. I DID modify the electrical as suggested. Removed the amp gauge etc....
http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=557

Cudalbs



You mentioned affordable, so you might like this option. I used a 90 amp delco remy which are very affordable and very easy to replace. I have electric fan, electric fuel pump, after market stereo with power amp. Had it in for about a year and a half with absolutely no more problems. Used to run my battery dead in about two weeks  with the stock one, I think it was about 40 amps. If you are interested and want more info, let me know. I also did all of the electrical updates mentioned. Not as intimidating as they sound. Good luck! Mike


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"Love those round taillight cars"


FSHTAIL

Any info you would be willing to share with me will greatly increase getting pumped up to do this.      Electrical stuff is not my fortay...   

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

Katfish

The 87 Diplomat/truck 78A unit is a direct bolt in.
Only $45 from RockAuto

Brads70


Cudalbs

http://madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

This is the link to a great site, it is where I got much of the info to do the fixes on my electrical. Their are some good reads on alternators in here. I didn't quite follow his amp bypass because I didn't want to be drill hole threw my brand new bulkhead connector. Good luck and keep us updated. Mike


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"Love those round taillight cars"


1 Wild R/T

Quote from: Cudalbs on August 20, 2017, 10:10:11 AM
http://madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

This is the link to a great site, it is where I got much of the info to do the fixes on my electrical. Their are some good reads on alternators in here. I didn't quite follow his amp bypass because I didn't want to be drill hole threw my brand new bulkhead connector. Good luck and keep us updated. Mike


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There are plenty of "Fixes" he suggests that I don't care for.... Functional yes, fine for the old farm truck, yes... Would I do it to a restored car? No!


Cudalbs

I probably didn't explain correctly but I didn't use his methods.....just the info as to the electrical connections an then carried them out the way I saw fit. As in I didn't drill through my bulkhead connector. Just used it to figure out what I needed to hook up to what to make things happen that I wanted to have happen. Relays, amp bypass, alternator......etc,etc

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"Love those round taillight cars"

FSHTAIL

I bought the nippendenso bracket from Mancini Racing. 
Internally regulated seemed like the way to go.   

So I'll have to wire it for that setup.   

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

FSHTAIL

Is there a step by step setup for the rewiring of the ALT gauge and doing a larger internally regulated amp wiring setup?

My electrical confidence is pretty low.  😕

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1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)