Electric upgrades while the dash is out?

[ec_co]

I've finally just about completed the dash reassembly. I had the frame powder coated, redid the dash myself, which isn't anywhere close to great, but it's good enough. Tested all my gauges and replaced the alt meter with new. ENG IVR3. All new M&H wiring. What upgrades or changes should I do while everything is out?

 I've seen the MAD write up (not sure if I completely understand it, I'm not the brightest when it comes to electrical), but would like to keep the alt gauge working if possible.

The only editions I've made so far is a grounding wire from the buzzer over to the gauge cluster and another to the light bar to make sure I was getting decent grounding because of the powder coated frame.

[MoparLeo]

Do the ammeter conversion to a voltmeter like modern cars have. You want to eliminate the full power from the alternator coming in directly to the firewall bulkhead into the dashes ammeter. This is where loose or bad connections eventually lead to overheating of the wiring and dash fires.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml
https://www.allpar.com/threads/taking-charge-tips-and-tweaks-to-keep-your-mopar-current.237043/?post_id=1085245456&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1085245456
https://www.allpar.com/threads/get-engauged-so-you-think-your-oil-pressure-doesnt-fluctuate.237019/?post_id=1085245432&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-1085245432

[dodj]

I would strongly recommend disconnecting the ammeter and running an alt bypass wire personally, but if you want to keep the alt, ensure the connections on the ammeter are clean and tight and same with the bulkhead connector. Do not buy a bigger than stock alternator and don't add electrical loads to the stock system like fans and pumps etc. The factory wiring is barely sufficient to support the loads of a bone stock car but if connectors/connections are kept clean and tight, chances of a meltdown will be kept to a minimum.

[mtull]

redid the dash myself, which isn't anywhere close to great

Your workmanship in the pics looks great!  IF you don't mind me asking, what fell short of your expectations/original goals?   
  

[YellowThumper]

Madd conversion basically keeps the load wires piloting thru the firewall. By eliminating the blade plug connection. And "shunting" the Ammeter to render it usless.
Running a large guage wire from alt to the starter solenoid effectively does the same as the bypass.
Charge flow (path of least resistance) then goes directly to battery. Power is still supplied thru factory setup but Ammeter is no longer relevant.

[ec_co]

redid the dash myself, which isn't anywhere close to great

Your workmanship in the pics looks great!  IF you don't mind me asking, what fell short of your expectations/original goals? 
 

It's been a 10 plus year running project, I was ran over last year (almost died) and decided to say screw it I'm just going to finish it and not get it perfect, but good enough for a driver. The one thing that I wish I could have done was a new dash pad, but I refinished what I had and it looks okay but there's definitely still a couple of cracks in it.

[70_440-6Cuda]

this may be a dumb question, but for those who want to keep an original appearance, are you keeping the amp gauge, and ensuring the wiring is in good working order?

I have always swapped in a volt gauge for amps in previous projects, but keeping an original appearance is something I have rarely, if ever, done in all of my resto projects over the years.

My e-body is the first car I have owned of any significant value where originality makes a difference, or am I overthinking?

[PLUM72]

Updates to the dash...I would add a extra ground wire from the switch panel to the dash frame.  You might consider replacing the gauge voltage limiter with a modern version from RT Engineering  https://www.rt-eng.com/.  Make sure you either add a USB adapter to the cigarette lighter port or have other provisions to charge a phone.

Others can debate the ammeter/volt meter thing.  It depends on the electrical needs of the vehicle and the alternator size you're running.

[dodj]

this may be a dumb question, but for those who want to keep an original appearance, are you keeping the amp gauge, and ensuring the wiring is in good working order?

I have always swapped in a volt gauge for amps in previous projects, but keeping an original appearance is something I have rarely, if ever, done in all of my resto projects over the years.

My e-body is the first car I have owned of any significant value where originality makes a difference, or am I overthinking?

Well...I kept original appearance of the rallye cluster. The amp gauge is still there..just isn't connected. I do however have a volt gauge down lower.
As I said before though, if you keep connections clean and tight and don't ask the BH and ammeter to carry more load than a stock system you should be pretty good. If it were me keeping it stock I would R&R the guts of the ammeter as well..it is 50 years old after all.

[chargerdon]

The problem with the amp gauge isnt the gauge itself.  The problem is that Mopar only used 12 gauge wiring from alternator thru the bulkhead connector to the amp gauge then 12 gauge back thru it to the starter relay.   Look our original alternators were 45 amp and 12 gauge wires are only rated for 20 amp as is the connectors in the bulkhead.

Replace the 12 gauge wiring with 10 gauge or better and Dont send it thru the bulkhead connectors.  Or better still run your 10 or better to the starter relay...

In my 74 challenger I ran a 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter relay.  Then realizing the amp gauge was now useless, I replaced the amp gauge with a voltage meter.  I found a 2 inch sun brand voltage meter that fits right into the original spot in the dash cluster.   

I found it interesting that when i turn the key to accessory if see the gauge right at 12 volt, but turn it to run and it drops to about 11 volt until after i start the engine.   One big benefit of the voltmeter over amp is that it allows me to see the state of charge on the battery.  I.e after several seconds of cranking to get the engine started (after sitting in garage for over a week or two) when the engine starts up my volt meter will then be showing around 11-12 for several seconds while the battery recharges..then once fully charged it will go to 14 volt and stay right there. 

[Duodec]

I have not done this yet but making plans to try.  One of the Chrysler annual tech books indicated that 1971 and later C-bodies did in fact have an ammeter that used a shunt.  The gauge itself, instead of expecting and handling 30+++ amps of current for full swing only handled a lot less (0.75?  I don't remember).   I purchased one of those ammeters NOS on ebay and plan on retrofitting it into my dead original ammeter, and add the connection in the engine compartment wiring that would be in place on a C body.

From a 73-ish FSM it looks like the ammeter wiring is just a pair of 18 gauge wires that tap into two different underhood splices, so the wiring between the two splices acts as the shunt, and a separate larger gauge wire was used to carry main power through the bulkhead connector (and it did not connect to the ammeter).

Not sure if this is going to work but I really do want to keep an ammeter instead of moving to a voltmeter.

[Mopar5]

Did you do the dash pad yourself?

[ec_co]

Did you do the dash pad yourself?

I did. It had a few valleys that I had to sand down and fill. Fill material probably should have been a little more flexible, it looked halfway decent when I got finished but after moving it around a little bit a couple hairline cracks formed when I was moving it around. Still looks okay for a 'driver' until I can eventually get one redone down the road. I used Herbs reproduction interior paint for all of my plastics and it's damn good

https://www.herbsparts.com/proddetail.php?prod=PAINT

[chargerdon]

I have not done this yet but making plans to try.  One of the Chrysler annual tech books indicated that 1971 and later C-bodies did in fact have an ammeter that used a shunt.  The gauge itself, instead of expecting and handling 30+++ amps of current for full swing only handled a lot less (0.75?  I don't remember).   I purchased one of those ammeters NOS on ebay and plan on retrofitting it into my dead original ammeter, and add the connection in the engine compartment wiring that would be in place on a C body.

From a 73-ish FSM it looks like the ammeter wiring is just a pair of 18 gauge wires that tap into two different underhood splices, so the wiring between the two splices acts as the shunt, and a separate larger gauge wire was used to carry main power through the bulkhead connector (and it did not connect to the ammeter).

Not sure if this is going to work but I really do want to keep an ammeter instead of moving to a voltmeter.

Again the problem with the ammeter is the wiring to it and from it...not the gauge itself.  It essentially is a shunt already...  Just a copper bar that as current passes thru it it magnetizes and moves the NOT CONNECTED needle.   Ive taken them apart and have seen this !! 

[dodj]

I have not done this yet but making plans to try.  One of the Chrysler annual tech books indicated that 1971 and later C-bodies did in fact have an ammeter that used a shunt.  The gauge itself, instead of expecting and handling 30+++ amps of current for full swing only handled a lot less (0.75?  I don't remember).   I purchased one of those ammeters NOS on ebay and plan on retrofitting it into my dead original ammeter, and add the connection in the engine compartment wiring that would be in place on a C body.

From a 73-ish FSM it looks like the ammeter wiring is just a pair of 18 gauge wires that tap into two different underhood splices, so the wiring between the two splices acts as the shunt, and a separate larger gauge wire was used to carry main power through the bulkhead connector (and it did not connect to the ammeter).

I have not done this yet but making plans to try.  One of the Chrysler annual tech books indicated that 1971 and later C-bodies did in fact have an ammeter that used a shunt.  The gauge itself, instead of expecting and handling 30+++ amps of current for full swing only handled a lot less (0.75?  I don't remember).   I purchased one of those ammeters NOS on ebay and plan on retrofitting it into my dead original ammeter, and add the connection in the engine compartment wiring that would be in place on a C body.

From a 73-ish FSM it looks like the ammeter wiring is just a pair of 18 gauge wires that tap into two different underhood splices, so the wiring between the two splices acts as the shunt, and a separate larger gauge wire was used to carry main power through the bulkhead connector (and it did not connect to the ammeter).

Not sure if this is going to work but I really do want to keep an ammeter instead of moving to a voltmeter.

Again the problem with the ammeter is the wiring to it and from it...not the gauge itself.  It essentially is a shunt already...  Just a copper bar that as current passes thru it it magnetizes and moves the NOT CONNECTED needle.   Ive taken them apart and have seen this !! 

Ive taken them apart and have seen this !! 

Yes, and seeing as you have seen it, you know they are soldered/welded or whatever in there and if you want to keep using it, it would be best to verify that those solid connections...are still solid. They can corrode/come apart after 50 years.