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Fried connector identification

Started by JunkYardFind, April 16, 2021, 07:58:57 PM

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JunkYardFind

Been slowly doing all the wiring in my 73 Cuda. Ran across this under the dash while installing the turn signal switch.
In fig.1 The Blue and green connector is the turn signal switch. The 3 pieces you see next to it, I believe is supposed to be ONE connector. The first piece without tape is actually the middle of the connector and the 2 ends to the right of it.

In fig.2 you can see the color scheme. 2 Red out the top, Orange & Black. fig.3 has the yellow wire.
Can anyone identify this connector? I just might need to replace this one  ::)

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Chryco Psycho

Ign switch connector , definately needs repairing or replace the switch but the main harness is equally damaged .
You should check the bulkhead plug as well the main power circuits got hot for sure & go through the bulkhead also .
I would look into an alt bypass wire , headlight relays & bypass the ammeter also to prevent this type of damage .

JunkYardFind

#2
@Chryco Psycho
Yep, already did all those upgrades. Ignition switch it is then!

I was hoping for rear tail light connector :/
My rear tail lights are staying on even when the car is turned off.

EDIT: Found the ignition switch replacement that has one side of the connector. So no problem there. I was just in the steering column for the ignition cylinder and turn signal.

Where does the other side connect to and where can I get that connector/wiring? Looks like it disappears under the dash.

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Chryco Psycho

You can check with JS restorations , he may have both sides of the connector , I know he rebuilds the ign switches so he has to have the switch side .
The taillight plug is behind the left kick panel in front of the door .
If the taillights are staying on check the adjustment of the brake light switch on the brake pedal , this could be the cause .

JunkYardFind

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 16, 2021, 09:28:18 PM
You can check with JS restorations , he may have both sides of the connector , I know he rebuilds the ign switches so he has to have the switch side .
The taillight plug is behind the left kick panel in front of the door .
If the taillights are staying on check the adjustment of the brake light switch on the brake pedal , this could be the cause .

I did move that brake adjustment a bit! That's a big help! Thanks!

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JunkYardFind

Okay....after ALOT of digging it appears this a very common problem. It also appears that male Molex connector that goes into the dash harness is tough to come by. Good to know as I can likely find these sporadically in the junkyard.

It also looks like the best way to go is to replace the Molex connectors completely with Anderson Powerpole connections... https://powerwerx.com/help/powerpole-connectors

Has anyone done this mod? If so, what size powerpole connections are used?

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Chryco Psycho

I have used different type connectors to make it work if originality is not an issue , you can use the small 7 pin trailer plug for example .
I am glad the brake switch suggest helped .


JunkYardFind

#7
Finally got this job done! Replaced the OE Molex connectors with Anderson PowerPole connectors... https://powerwerx.com/search?q=1327

In the pics below you can see just how damaged mine were!
A couple of notes on this upgrade...
> The Orange wires were not connected on my 73 Barracuda. Folks here say they are likely for steering column illumination if you have a column shift car. I have never seen a column shift E-body but the harness was likely used on other Mopars.. EDIT: See below for additional Info on the Orange wire!
> The 2 Reds are from the key buzzer inside the column and feed into the 2 black wires. (I took mine out so it is not shown in the PowerPole pic)
> Yellow, Blue and Brown connect to same colors.
> When you get a reproduction Ignition Switch, you will likely have a smaller 16g Black wire. DO NOT ATTACH THIS! Just cut and tie-off. It is for a switched ground used for other vehicle like the column shift wires.

The PowerPole terminal sizes you will need for the upgrade that fit the (14 pieces) 1327 housings shown. PP30 (12 -14ga wire) 10 pieces. Some factory replacement ignition switches have 10ga wires for the red and black leads, use 4 PP45s for those. The terminals will interchange, ie. PP30 on one side and a PP45 on the other.

Special thanks to @72RoadRunnerGTX for the help on this upgrade!

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72RoadRunnerGTX

#8
Be sure the two cut orange wires get re-connected to each other.

JunkYardFind

@72RoadRunnerGTX
Okay, good tip! The Orange are needed for dash illumination correct?

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72RoadRunnerGTX

Yes, orange is the illumination circuit. There are several circuit segments connected together at common connector terminals. Cutting off an unused terminal and not reconnecting the wires will stop current flow the other loads(lights) downstream, in this case, there will not be any other illumination lights functional if those two particular orange wires are not reconnected to each other.


JunkYardFind

Man, @72RoadRunnerGTX  if I ever run into you at a show....I owe you beers ALL day!
Thanks

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FSHTAIL

That turned out killer.. 

Did you use any sort of dielectric grease on the connections? 

Quote from: 72RoadRunnerGTX on April 28, 2021, 04:25:27 PM
Be sure the two cut orange wires get re-connected to each other.
1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

72RoadRunnerGTX

I'd be really hesitant to use dielectric grease on PowerPoles. The high current-low resistance properties depend on direct contact between the silver-plated terminals. On dry interior applications, just don't see the need.

Chryco Psycho