Rallye Cluster Rear - Which Poles are the Ammeter

[Mopsquad]

Doing the ammeter bypass with the new high amp alternator.  Members suggest that I connect the ammeter wires and bypass the gauge.  Here's a pic that I saw on Ebay.  Which two poles are the ammeter gauge?  Does it matter which pole I use to combine?

Thanks and much appreciated.

Steve

[Katfish]

Ammeter is on the bottom, so it's the 2 on bottom.....

[73chalngr]

I think the concept is to secure the two wires together and not connect them to the ammeter.

[1 Wild R/T]

I think the concept is to secure the two wires together and not connect them to the ammeter.

If both wires are connected to one ammeter post the ammeter doesn't see anything & you have a secure insulated mounting point...

[Brads70]

I think the concept is to secure the two wires together and not connect them to the ammeter.

If both wires are connected to one ammeter post the ammeter doesn't see anything & you have a secure insulated mounting point...

You have much more experience than me but isn't that the whole point of the bypass, like it's the cardboard insulator that breaks down causing the issue, so wouldn't bolting the wires together and taping them up well be a better option? 

[anlauto]

  bolting them to one end of the gauge would defeat the purpose of the by-pass...you still would have all the power connected to something that could fault out. I agree with Brad, hook the two wires together and tape them up.

[1 Wild R/T]

I think the concept is to secure the two wires together and not connect them to the ammeter.

If both wires are connected to one ammeter post the ammeter doesn't see anything & you have a secure insulated mounting point...

You have much more experience than me but isn't that the whole point of the bypass, like it's the cardboard insulator that breaks down causing the issue, so wouldn't bolting the wires together and taping them up well be a better option? 

The insulator breaks down because of heat caused by resistance across the meter, your not using the meter, just one post... Bolting them & insulating the connection works fine I've done it many times but until the ammeter is replaced with a voltmeter it's sitting there why not take advantage of it.... If it's gotten so bad that it has smoked then I wouldn't do it but the point of getting the info out there is getting people to bypass before the ugly final scene..... And as has been said many times before headlight relays are part of the fix.... Keep as much load away from the bulkhead as possible...

[Chryco Psycho]

I disagree ... tape dries out & having the wires floating around is more of a risk than bolting both on 1 post there is no heat or load on that post .

[anlauto]

Well you're the boss 

[Mopsquad]

Thx fellas.  Hopefully, I can reach under and do the job without to much body torquing.

[Chryco Psycho]

If you are worried about torquing against the fiber insulator gasket you can use 2 nuts further up the stud

[Mopsquad]

If you are worried about torquing against the fiber insulator gasket you can use 2 nuts further up the stud

Not sure what you're referring to?  I may be doing this blindly and by feel.

[1 Wild R/T]

If you are worried about torquing against the fiber insulator gasket you can use 2 nuts further up the stud

Not sure what you're referring to?  I may be doing this blindly and by feel.

I think Neil saw your post about torquing your body & misinterpreted it as concern about how much you could torque the studs on the back of the ammeter..

[Chryco Psycho]

I understood torquing the body < I was just saying if you were worried about damaging the insulator on the back of the guage you could use use 2 nuts & lock the wires on the stud that way

[Mopsquad]

Thank you for the clarification!