Rallye gauges, new to me

[Blake@diyhemi.com]

Hey guys, I picked up this dash today out of a 70 RT 383 challenger. I'm going to test them and install them into my 70 Cuda if they are in good shape.

My question is, where can I find the clock knobs and replacement parts for these gauges?


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[Blake@diyhemi.com]

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[xx88man]

The light bar is different from a 1970 Challenger. I'm not sure how correct you are making your car. Maybe it will be fine if you are using the entire dash? Others will know more.

[Blake@diyhemi.com]

The light bar is different from a 1970 Challenger. I'm not sure how correct you are making your car. Maybe it will be fine if you are using the entire dash? Others will know more.

Interesting, I'm curious and would love to know more. Not sure if using it or not at this point, I have to make sure they work first.

My AAR is originally a standard dash, but I always liked the rallye. Maybe I should leave well enough alone [emoji2371]

But education is always a plus. Maybe a guru can chime in and let me know what the differences are


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[6bblgt]

the lower plastic dash covers are '70 Challenger ONLY, also

here's the light bar for the 1970-'74 Barracuda & 1971-'74 Challenger
https://forum.e-bodies.org/parts-misc-for-sale/9/4-light-rallye-gauge-light-bar-a62-4-sale/12768/msg172666#msg172666

[Topcat]

Hey guys, I picked up this dash today out of a 70 RT 383 challenger. I'm going to test them and install them into my 70 Cuda if they are in good shape.

My question is, where can I find the clock knobs and replacement parts for these gauges?

$40.00

https://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.asp?prod=125%2DDK101

[6bblgt]

the edge of the '70 Challenger dash pad is "thicker" above the switch panel and the light bar is deeper?/taller?/wider? to fill the difference

IMO the easiest ID feature is near this cutout rectangle 

[screamindriver]

The good news is you can sell the 70 Challenger parts and get the more common parts that would be correct for your application...The actual bezel difference would be the 70 challenger bezel  has the character line that follows the contour..

[6bblgt]

The good news is you can sell the 70 Challenger parts and get the more common parts that would be correct for your application...The actual bezel difference would be the 70 challenger bezel  has the character line that follows the contour..

@screamindriver ***  that's backwards - the '70 Challenger has NO character line, pictured in tan/gold is all but '70 Challenger

[screamindriver]

Good catch Dan{ obviously the tag is incorrect on the file and I was second guessing myself good lord I have one right out in the shop to look at}I'll let it as is for the entertainment value.. So the good news is you can sell the 70 Challenger parts and still get the more common and correct parts needed..The one WITH the character line...

[Jay Bee]

Here's a thread on the light bar differences from our site's "Reference Material".

https://forum.e-bodies.org/reference-material/18/1970-challenger-dash-light-bar-differences/3044/

[Jay Bee]

Another picture comparing the differences in the trim pieces.

[Blake@diyhemi.com]

Here's a thread on the light bar differences from our site's "Reference Material".

https://forum.e-bodies.org/reference-material/18/1970-challenger-dash-light-bar-differences/3044/

This is perfect! E-bodies rocks!


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[Blake@diyhemi.com]

Here are my current gauges.

At some point in the 80's aftermarket gauges were added, but saving the original speedometer/odometer. I have documentation on the mileage from 12,000 miles back in the 70's, and everything lines up to when I bought it.

Undecided on what to do at this point, but I appreciate all the information!

I used Cody's testing methods on the gauge cluster and all seemed to be in working condition!


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[Jay Bee]

Looks like your original harness has been modified to accommodate an oil pressure gauge and a tach. Depending on how it was done you "might" be okay there, that's if the rallye cluster didn't come with the harness. If you decide to go with the rallye one make sure you have the correct oil pressure sending unit too. The clock wire should already be there in your existing wiring.