some advice needed

[Plumcrazy72]

I have been having the worst luck with finding a good neutral safety switch. My original started acting up so i tried replacing it. I have went through 8 NSS now with not one worthy of calling good. They either leak in odd spots, or don't work at all. The one i have now doesn't turn on my reverse lights but at least isn't leaking. I had one in that did everything it should but leaked between the center rubber area and the casing. So i was able to find an old original a guy give to me to try. I put it in and doesn't work, no reverse lights, would start in any gear etc (the worst one i've tried so far). When i had it on a hoist and moved the shifter through the gears i thought i could see the lights give a flicker, after finding out the old original was worse than the one i had in there i switched it back out. I found that i now have no turn signals and no break lights, my 4 way flashers do work, and all my running lights work as well. Could something have shorted out in the old original NSS? I checked fuse #3 and its fine, would it be my flasher relay? any input is welcome as this is starting to make me  Thanks

[Chryco Psycho]

You have separate flashers for 4 way & turn signal so it is possible , but that will nto affect the brake lights .
the brake lights could be a bad turn signal switch or a bad brake light switch , you can trace power through the brake light switch up to the column  . Often if up put pressure toward you on the turn signal arm it may connect & work if so the problem for brake & Turn is in the TS switch

[dodj]

If you went through 8 NSS switches I would start to suspect the lever in the transmission. Did the ones that leaked function properly otherwise? If they did then trans lever would be fine. There are two different length NSS switches out there, take a look at your collection and see if they are all the same. Then I would bench test the switch. Centre pin should have continuity to the 'nub' on the side of the switch that goes into the trans. The outer two pins should have continuity when the switch is activated (depressed). When you find one that checks out electrically, Install in the trans and check that the centre pin has continuity to the case of the trans when in park or neutral. If it doesn't, maybe something is in the way of screwing the switch in all the way? Maybe two or three gaskets?
For the reverse lights, put it in reverse and see if the outer pins have continuity. If you do, the switch /trans is ok and the issue is in the wiring to the reverse lights, or power to the switch for the reverse lights.
If you don't have continuity, and it bench tested ok, it is a matter of switch seating depth, or the plastic shroud may have broken in the trans - which would give the car the ability to start in any gear.
Brake lights would be a separate problem. Deal with one at a time. CP gave good advise on how to start with that one.
Good luck on your troubleshooting. 

[HP_Cuda]

The correct NSS has a nice washer on it to prevent leaking.

[Plumcrazy72]

If you went through 8 NSS switches I would start to suspect the lever in the transmission. Did the ones that leaked function properly otherwise? If they did then trans lever would be fine. There are two different length NSS switches out there, take a look at your collection and see if they are all the same. Then I would bench test the switch. Centre pin should have continuity to the 'nub' on the side of the switch that goes into the trans. The outer two pins should have continuity when the switch is activated (depressed). When you find one that checks out electrically, Install in the trans and check that the centre pin has continuity to the case of the trans when in park or neutral. If it doesn't, maybe something is in the way of screwing the switch in all the way? Maybe two or three gaskets?
For the reverse lights, put it in reverse and see if the outer pins have continuity. If you do, the switch /trans is ok and the issue is in the wiring to the reverse lights, or power to the switch for the reverse lights.
If you don't have continuity, and it bench tested ok, it is a matter of switch seating depth, or the plastic shroud may have broken in the trans - which would give the car the ability to start in any gear.
Brake lights would be a separate problem. Deal with one at a time. CP gave good advise on how to start with that one.
Good luck on your troubleshooting. 

I had one brand i got from classic industries that worked as it should, reverse lights came on, would only start in neutral and park. The bad part of them is they leaked, not from where the rubber washer seals when tightened into the trans but it leaked between the center rubber part (that has the 3 pins) and the outer metal section (that has the threads) Another brand i have tried is just a little bit (like one-two threads approx.) shorter than the original, it only allows to be started in neutral and park but does not turn reverse lights on. All units check out ok when bench testing. I did not bench test the last one i got that was an original NSS as i was told it would work. After putting it in i now realize i should have checked it, as nothing worked and i believe caused a short

[Plumcrazy72]

You have separate flashers for 4 way & turn signal so it is possible , but that will nto affect the brake lights .
the brake lights could be a bad turn signal switch or a bad brake light switch , you can trace power through the brake light switch up to the column  . Often if up put pressure toward you on the turn signal arm it may connect & work if so the problem for brake & Turn is in the TS switch

I will test this out tonight after work. Would this be caused by a short in a NSS? I know i had blinkers on my way to where i used the hoist, and i know i had break lights when i parked it the previous time because i can see them when backing upto the wall in my shop. Thanks for the help, appreciate it.

[7212Mopar]

Manual or Auto trans? What I had done on a auto below.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/electrical-and-audio/11/neutral-safety-switch/5460/

[Plumcrazy72]

Manual or Auto trans? What I had done on a auto below.

https://forum.e-bodies.org/electrical-and-audio/11/neutral-safety-switch/5460/

Auto trans

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[Plumcrazy72]

From the TS wiring harness what colour is the blinkers at the connector? I have resolved my brake light issue just need to figure the turn signals now. Also is this the turn signal relay?

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[Rich G.]

That's not it. It's a 2 prong.  There's 2 flashers , one for the 4 ways and one for the turn signals . Both the same. 2 different locations . The turn signal one is usually behind the ash tray.

[anlauto]

That's the timer delay for the A01 light group option.

[dodj]

That's not it. It's a 2 prong.  There's 2 flashers , one for the 4 ways and one for the turn signals . Both the same. 2 different locations . The turn signal one is usually behind the ash tray.

the other flasher is mounted above the steering column.

[Plumcrazy72]

That's the timer delay for the A01 light group option.

Okay thanks. Thought that was likely it.

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[Plumcrazy72]

I will check both locations thanks guys

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[Chryco Psycho]

You have separate flashers for 4 way & turn signal so it is possible , but that will nto affect the brake lights .
the brake lights could be a bad turn signal switch or a bad brake light switch , you can trace power through the brake light switch up to the column  . Often if up put pressure toward you on the turn signal arm it may connect & work if so the problem for brake & Turn is in the TS switch

I will test this out tonight after work. Would this be caused by a short in a NSS? I know i had blinkers on my way to where i used the hoist, and i know i had break lights when i parked it the previous time because i can see them when backing upto the wall in my shop. Thanks for the help, appreciate it.

The Nss has no effect on brake or turn signal lights