Upgrading Alternator - Ammeter Bypass and Fuseable Link Q's

[Mopsquad]

Hello All,

Mopar schematics are new to me and I'm learning a ton on  this site.  From the recommendation of several members here, I'm upgrading my alternator.  I converted to EFI which brings along an MSD and electric fuel pump with it.  A/C in the future.  My battery voltage tells me to upgrade my stock 60A unit.  12.6V at idle

I decided to order the 150A Quality Power unit so I need to know what I need to do to upgrade the wiring circuit,  I'm a bit confused. Some q's

1. Do I disconnect and unite the ammeter wires OR it doesn't matter because the larger wire from the 1 wire alternator to the battery will take most of the voltage.  Which is better? Is it hard to get at them (ammeter wires) ?

2. What do I do with the existing wires on the old style alternator once the new one is installed?  I think there are 3 connections.

3. Is the bypass a moot point since the new style already is one wire directly to battery (or starter relay)?

4. Do I need a fuseable link (which I just learned is a wire that acts like a fuse)?  And where to I install it?

Can someone give me a step by step to help my confusion?

So much appreciated.

Steve

[Chryco Psycho]

1] I would connect the 2 wires on the ammeter to 1 post , they are not too hard to reach behind the dash above the radio area but I am not overweight & I am very flexable still , there will be very little load across the ammeter now so the chance of it failing or catching on fire is very minimal but it will not read properly either .Might as well connect them together IMO .
2] The main output wire black still needs to connect to the Alt output to feed power to the rest of the car , the green wire just returns to the voltage regulator on the firewall, both the wire & regulator can be removed assuming the new alt is a 1 wire internally regulated design .
3] you will still be using the bypass from the main alt output to the start relay you can put a fusable link in but as I said before both ends have battery voltage unless you fuse both ends the fuse is really useless because if the wire shorts both ends supply full power

[Mopsquad]

1] I would connect the 2 wires on the ammeter to 1 post , they are not too hard to reach behind the dash above the radio area but I am not overweight & I am very flexable still , there will be very little load across the ammeter now so the chance of it failing or catching on fire is very minimal but it will not read properly either .Might as well connect them together IMO .
2] The main output wire black still needs to connect to the Alt output to feed power to the rest of the car , the green wire just returns to the voltage regulator on the firewall, both the wire & regulator can be removed assuming the new alt is a 1 wire internally regulated design .
3] you will still be using the bypass from the main alt output to the start relay you can put a fusable link in but as I said before both ends have battery voltage unless you fuse both ends the fuse is really useless because if the wire shorts both ends supply full power

That's great info, thx for the clarification and yes I do recall your reference to both ends having power.
You mentioned the black and the green wire connects on the back of the alt. What about the blue seen in pic?

[Chryco Psycho]

there are 3 connections to the back of the Alt , the heavy black wire 12ga ? , then the smaller blue 12v feed & the green wire back tot he reg , you have twin wires in one plug which may be feeding power to electric choke or ... the blue wire can be removed but you need to make sure the second wire is still powered , so better to just tape it into the harness

[dodj]

Fusing at the battery end is all you need. The battery is the only source you cannot turn off, so it needs to be fused. With the alternator, it stops supplying power when you turn off the engine.
Your car has no fusing at the output of the alternator now. A fuse or fusible link at the alternator may be a marginal improvement for a very unlikely fault,  but imo, overkill.

[1 Wild R/T]

Personally I don't fuse either end, but I do slip a length of radiator overflow hose over the wire for an extra measure of abrasion protection...

[Mopsquad]

Thank you for the info everyone.  I feel that I have a better grasp now on this swap. New high output alternator should be arriving in a few days.

[dodj]

While you are waiting you can plan out where you want to run the bypass wire. To be out of sight for the most part, I ran mine from the alt, forward along the top of the frame rail through the rad cradle (there is a hole there) across to the driver's side and back through the rad cradle along the frame rail to where I mounted an MANL fuse block. Then that is connected to the start relay/battery. Your choice where to connect, I chose the battery - one less connection for charging.
I went with an MANL fuse instead of a fuse link for ease of replacement but a fuse link is arguably a 'cleaner' install.
Good luck with the upgrade!

[Mopsquad]

While you are waiting you can plan out where you want to run the bypass wire. To be out of sight for the most part, I ran mine from the alt, forward along the top of the frame rail through the rad cradle (there is a hole there) across to the driver's side and back through the rad cradle along the frame rail to where I mounted an MANL fuse block. Then that is connected to the start relay/battery. Your choice where to connect, I chose the battery - one less connection for charging.
I went with an MANL fuse instead of a fuse link for ease of replacement but a fuse link is arguably a 'cleaner' install.
Good luck with the upgrade!

Thx for the routing tip.  I did purchase a fuseable link harness from member @crackedback

[Chryco Psycho]

I have always gone the other way following the main harness around the rear of the engine

[1 Wild R/T]

I have always gone the other way following the main harness around the rear of the engine

Yup....

[dodj]

I have always gone the other way following the main harness around the rear of the engine

Nothing wrong with that, just more visible.

[Fern]

Hello All,

Mopar schematics are new to me and I'm learning a ton on  this site.  From the recommendation of several members here, I'm upgrading my alternator.  I converted to EFI which brings along an MSD and electric fuel pump with it.  A/C in the future.  My battery voltage tells me to upgrade my stock 60A unit.  12.6V at idle

I decided to order the 150A Quality Power unit so I need to know what I need to do to upgrade the wiring circuit,  I'm a bit confused. Some q's

1. Do I disconnect and unite the ammeter wires OR it doesn't matter because the larger wire from the 1 wire alternator to the battery will take most of the voltage.  Which is better? Is it hard to get at them (ammeter wires) ?

2. What do I do with the existing wires on the old style alternator once the new one is installed?  I think there are 3 connections.

3. Is the bypass a moot point since the new style already is one wire directly to battery (or starter relay)?

4. Do I need a fuseable link (which I just learned is a wire that acts like a fuse)?  And where to I install it?

Can someone give me a step by step to help my confusion?

So much appreciated.

Steve

I know this is an older post, but what gauge wire did you use for the bypass?
What size fusible link?

Im thinking of installing 150 alternator.
Thanks

[dodj]

I used #4 fine strand motor lead wire. I think most people use #8.

[Chryco Psycho]

8 would be fine , with 150 amp you could use 6 but it would be vary rare where you  would max out the alt , generally 20-30 is normal unless you have a lot of cooling fans & EFI etc