Won't start in Park or Neutral

[money pit]

My car (74 360, 727 trans) won't start in park or neutral. I replaced the neutral safety switch and adjusted the shift linkage (slap stick) per service manual. That didn't seem to work. I replaced the starter relay, that didn't work. If I jump the terminals at the starter relay with the ignition on, it will start. I was reading on a thread that said there should be 12 V to the yellow wire on the starter relay and if you ground the brown wire on the relay and the car starts, there's a problem with the wiring or NSS. Is there a way to test the wiring to the neutral safety switch? I know there are 3 terminals on the NSS. What goes to these terminals, power, ground, back up lights? I noticed that if I jump start the starter relay and drive the car, the car will sometimes start with the ignition key. Any thoughts? Thanks.

[7212Mopar]

https://forum.e-bodies.org/electrical-and-audio/11/neutral-safety-switch/5460/msg77642#msg77642

Try this thread. The new switch most do not have the proper threads and depth.

[Shane Kelley]

Many times this is simply a bad connection at the bulkhead connector on the firewall. Another place is the connector on the steering column not getting a good connection. Start with the column and see if that yellow wire has power on both sides of the connector. If it does go to the firewall connector and check for power there. Obviously someone is going to have to turn the key for you.

[Jay Bee]

Same issue I just fixed. Car didn't crank, turning the key was like not turning the key at all. Initially I was thinking NSS too then did some troubleshooting. When I turned the key to start there was only 5v on the yellow wire. I had a bad connection on the red wire of the key switch connector under the dash by the steering column.

[money pit]

Thanks. I'll take a look at the connectors. I did remove the steering column when I replaced the steering gear box.

[money pit]

I'll check these connections. Thanks.

[Jay Bee]

Definitely take a very close look. Compare the red wire to the others to see that it's pins are seated the same amount as the others. I believe it was Wayne that noticed the red one was pushed out just a bit, doesn't take much. Hell, it might even be worth it to try and push the red pins together with something like jewellers screwdrivers. Let us know how you make out.

[money pit]

This is what I found so far. I get power to the yellow wire on the starter relay. I grounded the terminal on the starter relay (where the brown wire connects) and I'm able to start the car with the key. I checked the wire to the NSS. The center connector has continuity with the brown wire on the starter relay. The two outer connectors have continuity with the connectors on the fire wall. I pretty sure it's the NSS, even though I just replaced it.  Any recommendations?  Thanks

[7212Mopar]

Try disconnect shifter linkage and manually move shifter lever at trans to park or neutral and try to start the engine. If it start then it is just a matter of adjusting the shifter linkage. If it does not and you suspect it is the NSS, the switch might be too short and not making contact with the rooster comb. Do you have backup light when in R?

[money pit]

No back up lights.  Ill try disconnecting the linkage and see what happens.  Thanks.

[Cudajason]

Try disconnect shifter linkage and manually move shifter lever at trans to park or neutral and try to start the engine. If it start then it is just a matter of adjusting the shifter linkage. If it does not and you suspect it is the NSS, the switch might be too short and not making contact with the rooster comb. Do you have backup light when in R?

I think what @7212Mopar is alluding to is that if you do not have reverse lights, then it is likely the NSS is not seated properly, does not have the proper thread depth and is you problem.

As far as new ones, I would check with Roseville first.

Nothing like a new part that is not correct!

Jason

[7212Mopar]

The thread link I included in my first reply is long and wordy but illustrate the issues I faced. In my case, the NSS was too long and linkage not adjusted properly at the beginning. The replacement parts are not exact to the original. That thing is still giving me problem with a slow leak but likely because of me over tighten it and crack the center plastic. If you drop the trans pan, you will see what is going on.

[money pit]

I was thinking about looking for NOS since the aftermarket parts don't fit correctly.  Thanks

[money pit]

I read the link. If all else fails, I'll drop the trans pan and take a look at the position of the plunger on the switch. The photos of the mods was great.  Thanks

[money pit]

Which way is the rubber seal installed. The photo on the top is the way the NSS was packaged. The bottom photo seems like the way the seal should be installed.