426 Hemi. Spark plug #7 removal

[Mopsquad]

Hello all!  Changing all spark plug wires to hei for the efi swap. The new wires have a solid boot and I can't get the boot down the #7 head tube. I assume that the brake booster has to move.
Any tricks? Do I remove the 4 nuts and slant the booster or, do I have to also disengage the rod to pedal bolt as well?

Thanks in advance!

[Topcat]

If you have power brake booster, then get used to pulling master cylinder off (lines on) and tether it with a rag tied onto the hood hinge.

I've tried all types of extension combinations and never found anything that really saved me time overall.



Pull booster then you have better access to number 7.

Use a quick replacement loop end notched cotter pin that's re usable on the back of the booster.

After doing this a few times like for valve adjustment, it's no big deal anymore.

[HEMICUDA]

The #7 spark plug has a rubber boot, unlike the other 7 wires that have the porcelain for the very reason you're having trouble removing yours.

[Mopsquad]

The #7 spark plug has a rubber boot, unlike the other 7 wires that have the porcelain for the very reason you're having trouble removing yours.

Unfortunately this Mancini HEI set is a solid boot all around. #1-#8

[Mopsquad]

If you have power brake booster, then get used to pulling master cylinder off (lines on) and tether it with a rag tied onto the hood hinge.

I've tried all types of extension combinations and never found anything that really saved me time overall.



Pull booster then you have better access to number 7.

Use a quick replacement loop end notched cotter pin that's re usable on the back of the booster.

After doing this a few times like for valve adjustment, it's no big deal anymore.

Thx for the info. Do I have to disconnect the push rod at brake pedal?

[Topcat]

If you have power brake booster, then get used to pulling master cylinder off (lines on) and tether it with a rag tied onto the hood hinge.

I've tried all types of extension combinations and never found anything that really saved me time overall.



Pull booster then you have better access to number 7.

Use a quick replacement loop end notched cotter pin that's re usable on the back of the booster.

After doing this a few times like for valve adjustment, it's no big deal anymore.

Thx for the info. Do I have to disconnect the push rod at brake pedal?

What ya gotta do is on the backside of the Booster, there's a Cotter pin.
When you remove that after the master cylinder tied off the booster comes off.

It's a hard reach, so replace the pin with one that' s easier.

I put a big piece of foam cushion, on the fender; over the fender cover to lean over better.

[Topcat]

The #7 spark plug has a rubber boot, unlike the other 7 wires that have the porcelain for the very reason you're having trouble removing yours.

Yes, I'm aware of that but if you run Firecore 80 wires which are the best IMO, then number 7 is like the rest of the wires.

[Mopsquad]

If you have power brake booster, then get used to pulling master cylinder off (lines on) and tether it with a rag tied onto the hood hinge.

I've tried all types of extension combinations and never found anything that really saved me time overall.



Pull booster then you have better access to number 7.

Use a quick replacement loop end notched cotter pin that's re usable on the back of the booster.

After doing this a few times like for valve adjustment, it's no big deal anymore.

Thx for the info. Do I have to disconnect the push rod at brake pedal?

What ya gotta do is on the backside of the Booster, there's a Cotter pin.
When you remove that after the master cylinder tied off the booster comes off.

It's a hard reach, so replace the pin with one that' s easier.

I put a big piece of foam cushion, on the fender; over the fender cover to lean over better.

Thank you. Never saw that pin till now. I assume the 4 nuts to the support bracket come off too?

[Topcat]

If you have power brake booster, then get used to pulling master cylinder off (lines on) and tether it with a rag tied onto the hood hinge.

I've tried all types of extension combinations and never found anything that really saved me time overall.



Pull booster then you have better access to number 7.

Use a quick replacement loop end notched cotter pin that's re usable on the back of the booster.

After doing this a few times like for valve adjustment, it's no big deal anymore.

Thx for the info. Do I have to disconnect the push rod at brake pedal?

What ya gotta do is on the backside of the Booster, there's a Cotter pin.
When you remove that after the master cylinder tied off the booster comes off.

It's a hard reach, so replace the pin with one that' s easier.

I put a big piece of foam cushion, on the fender; over the fender cover to lean over better.

Thank you. Never saw that pin till now. I assume the 4 nuts to the support bracket come off too?

Yup!

4 for the Master Cylinder, then 4 for the Booster. 

[Mopsquad]

Thanks again! And for the spring pin trick too.