904 Shifting delay from 2nd to 3rd

[jyotkc]

I'm having issues with my 73 Challenger 318 with 904 automatic. When it shifts from 2nd to third, there's like a 1-2 second delay before it goes into 3rd, like it's in neutral and the engine revs way up. Going from 1st to 2nd is perfect. Is there an external adjustment I can do to fix this. I bought the b&m shift kit thinking it would fix the problem but it didn't. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[dylo]

Too little pressure from the kick-down linkage?

Have you checked that its pulling the kickdown lever all the way at WOT?

[jyotkc]

I don't have the kick down hooked up yet. I'll get it attached this week, hopefully that will fix it. Thanks.

[1 Wild R/T]

Don't drive it anymore till it's hooked up....  It sounds like you've already burnt the clutches...

[jyotkc]

Oh no. I assumed the kick down was only to downshift when you step on the gas. One reason i haven't connected it yet is because i installed a mid rise intake with the msd efi. Now the linkages sit 2 inches higher and the kick down boost line up. I made a custom bracket for the throttle cable.

[71383bee]

Agreed. The kick down is a MUST. It has to be working or it will FRY your tranny.   At the very worst you can wire it wide open to get you home or something if you are stranded but it needs to be set and adjusted to a reasonable setting.

It's like timing I have found the kickdown and setting timing are like voodoo to a lot of owners and it's very important to take the time to learn about it and set it right.

Very basic way to set it is while not running is to have a friend push the gas pedal to the floor. Check to see if the carb is open all the way. If not adjust the throttle cable first. After that floor it and push the kick down rod as far back as it goes toward the firewall. This is assuming it is hooked up at the tranny and the carb. If not connect it at the trans and at the carb without the return spring. If it slides back with the throttle there should be around 1/8" of play or so beyond the throttle stud on the carburetor if you push back on the kid down rod. Adjust the kickdown rod at the carb to achieve this.  After set put the kickdown return spring on so it always has pressure against the carb stud. When working it should always have slight pressure against the throttle stud and travel in unison with the trans throttle. Think of it as just a bar that links the 2 throttles together (trans and carb) which is basically what it is. I guess it's a little hard to explain but the FSM's in the resource library are available and explain this in the transmission sections.  Or you can ask for pictures and help. 

Is this the new cuda you got or the challenger you were going to sell? 


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[jyotkc]

This is on the Challenger. It also has the MSD throttle body fuel injection, no carburetor . So i guess i need to do some research on the kick down procedure for the fuel injection. The Barracuda i got is in perfect mechanical condition. I'm having a hard time deciding which one to keep, the Challenger or the Barracuda. My son and i have a lot of time invested in the Challenger. I was thinking about doing a survey topic of which one should i keep, haha.

[Jay Bee]

My car needed some modifications to the kickdown & throttle brackets so that everything would work properly and I didn't cook another transmission.

[7212Mopar]

Keep both for yourself and your son. If you are missing the kick down linkage, you can also get the kick down cable from Mancini Racing. Super easy to setup and adjust.

[jyotkc]

I wish i could keep both, if i did i might lose my wife, haha.
I called Mancini and they didn't have a bracket to fit the MSD EFI

[71383bee]

My car needed some modifications to the kickdown & throttle brackets so that everything would work properly and I didn't cook another transmission.

Ok that linkage looks good.  Modifications for higher intakes and such are totally normal.  The main thing is to make sure that there is no binding and everything moves freely.  Now typically the throttle cable is mounted to the outside of the carb stud and the kickdown is to the inside but as I said above if it moves freely and you have full throttle travel what you have should be fine. 

You have a one piece kickdown.  The upper carb plate is slotted so if the trans throttle accidentally gets stuck open your throttle also wont be stuck wide open which can cause a serious accident.  The lighter spring maintains pressure of the kickdown against the throttle stud.  The vertical bolt in the 2nd picture is how you adjust it.  I believe it is 7/16". 

i usually disconnect the kick down spring and have a buddy push the throttle to the floor while you manually push the kick down rod all the way back.  There should be just a little more travel in the kick down throttle leaving a slight gap behind the floored carb stud in the slotted kick down bracket.  You loosen and tighten the bolt to provide this adjustment.  Once it s set re install the spring and you should be set.  You should notice a difference in shifting right away.  It is amazing what that little adjustment can do. 

Also as 7212Mopar suggests the cable kickdown kits are very nice and adaptable for non stock applications.  I've used the Bouchilon kit in the past and they are nice pieces.  Lokar makes one too. 

I also say keep em both!  If you can afford it that is...

[7212Mopar]

Bee is right, cable kit is from Bochuillon Performance, not Mancinni Racing. I got them mixed up from time to time.

[Cudajason]

Do you have a pic of the MSD throttle body fuel injection.  There are a number of cable sets ups and brackets that may work with that application?

I run a lokar cable and bracket and it works great!

Jason

[jyotkc]

I'll post a pic when i get home. Holley said part #6039 Mr. Gasket will work

[jyotkc]

Here are a couple pics. Notice in the second pic how low the kick down lever is compared to the throttle bracket. I had to customer make a 2 inch bracket to raise the throttle bracket