Anyone here do dizzy rebuilds and recurving?...Plug wires!

[kawahonda]

Carter AVS, OEM. It probably could use a rebuild. You're very much right--pinging can just mean the carb needs some tuning/adjusting and it's running lean. Plugs look pretty good howeve. Going to continue on the path of getting the ignition done first. I do have Mike's carb kit for when the time comes to pull it! I think my pinging is very much ignition related...or at least "mostly". Will update you guys on details on how the rebuild is going.

[kawahonda]

It seems like my Firewall has pre-tapped holes for the later model e-body ECU mounting bracket. Is this true?

So this bracket should be plug and play?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-ECU-Electronic-Control-Unit-Mounting-Bracket-NEW/173298277764?fits=Year%3A1972%7CMake%3ADodge%7CModel%3AChallenger&hash=item285961dd84:g:N4sAAOxyjPNRErgU:sc:USPSFirstClass!83713!US!-1

[kawahonda]

OK, so time for some updates.

After talking to my Ignition rebuilder friend, and Jeff from AdvancedDistributor, and another mopar friend here, you will end up with three different conclusions. I have now came up with a new saying: "ignitions are like assholes, everyone has one!"

My rebuilder friend thinks everything available today is trash since it is made in China. It's either keep the point, or petronix. There's no other options to go along with the recurve.

Jeff at Advanced Distributor is VERY approachable. I really recommend him. But again, another professional opinion: It's either points or nothing from him. Petronix is very bad. Electronic ignitions are very bad.

My good Mopar friend here is all about electronic ignitions all the way. In-fact, he recommends getting the Mopar Performance one and calling it a day!

So I got to thinking that all of these distributors, even mine, are the same in the fact that they should be set up to where "all in" is around 35 BTDC (+ or -2). Only the curving is really changed (which is important for squeezing out additional ponies). What this means, is that if my ride pings now at 33-35 "all in", it's probably going to ping at 33-35 "all in" with a new distributor.

So I went out to the garage again with a much more educated mind, especially with my new timing light. Thanks @Cuda Cody for the recommendation...these lights are one of the best things you can buy. A must have. With all the noises, rattles gone from the speedometer cable, old exhaust pipes, old tires, etc, I will be able to really focus on engine noise.

First thing is I plugged up the vacuum advance. Keep it plugged up for the rest of your base tuning. You don't need it. Isolate it away!

Checked my point gap. Rock-steady at 33.5 dwell. Nailed. Pretty much the best point gap you can have.

Set my Initial timing at 16.5 BDTC. I know it's a bit high, but I wanted to hit the ceiling effect first. With my current Chrysler single-point dizzy, this leads to 36ish "all in."

First run: Didn't hear pinging at first. Got it on "medium". Didn't really hear pinging either. REALLY got on it in first from 3,000 RPM and definitely heard pinging. Performance seemed "good", but not necessarily THAT much better than before, especially with pre-detonation occurring.

Got back in the garage, and reduced it to 14 BTDC initial. This brought my total "all in" to 33 BTDC @ 3,000 (highest it would go).

Set it in first gear...ran to 3,000 RPM...and then punched it. Holy shit. This car RUNS now. No pinging. Punched it several times at high RPMs. No pinging. I did hear some "minor" pinging once from a complete stop with full load while turning and peeling out, but it's one of those "I think it pinged?" type things...or maybe something else. I'll keep monitoring.

So my final AT THIS TIME is going to be 14 BTDC, 33 "all in". Vacuum advance is still disconnected. Over the weekend, I will try to dial that in appropriately, which uses a different process. To reiterate above (and to correct some misconceptions on the internet), your vacuum advance does NOT count towards your ideal "33-35" BTDC "all in" timing. It's supplemental on top of that. Specifications are 50 total timing WITH vacuum advance connected. Sounds about right to me.

A good re-curving will still do me good....but you don't want to be spending $200 for one on an old point system...

As far as ignition? I feel at this time, this system is just fine and dandy. I may get some new FireCore plug wires in the near term, but it sounds like Ignition is now much less of a priority and I will delay back to winter as originally planned. Hell, by winter, I may be "rooted" with the point system in that I may just get it recurved/rebuilt and have the point retained if the price is right. I may be starting to grow a greybeard already...

Keep it stock, keep it hot baby.

[Bullitt-]

It seems like my Firewall has pre-tapped holes for the later model e-body ECU mounting bracket. Is this true?

So this bracket should be plug and play?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-ECU-Electronic-Control-Unit-Mounting-Bracket-NEW/173298277764?fits=Year%3A1972%7CMake%3ADodge%7CModel%3AChallenger&hash=item285961dd84:g:N4sAAOxyjPNRErgU:sc:USPSFirstClass!83713!US!-1

That mounts to the firewall to hold the ECU... helps keep it cool I believe is the idea..

Another source for electronic distributors if you ever want to go that route is stock rebuilt
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=27953&cc=1078680&jsn=538

[kawahonda]

Do you guys see any problem with replacing my current old wires (7mm) with the FireCore 50 8.5mm wires with the stock ignition system?

My current wires are not stock and appear to have 500 OHms per foot.

The FireCore wires have 50 Ohms per foot. And they look way more stock with the light green font and I can get the boots in tan color....

Is there any downfall to going to lower resistance with these wires using the point system?

If it's a great idea, do you guys have any recommendations for 8.5mm wire retainers/holders that look somewhat stock (black)?

[kawahonda]

Distributor is on its way back. This single-point dizzy has a max mechanical limit of 9 degrees. That’s pretty good—no tom-foolery needed to reduce that at all.

He changed out a couple springs and curved it. The RPM at “all in” was way too low…1700 RPM…which is fine for 100 octane fuel, but not for ordinary 91 fuel. He slowed this down to 3200 RPM.

He ditched the horrid 19-degree vacuum advance and put on a 10 degree vacuum advance. He has it preset with his Sun machine where the vacuum comes on at a specific amount of inches—only when it needs it.

He’s confident the car will scream with it. He even installed NOS Accel points that showed way better dwell at higher RPMs than the points I had....how does 6500 RPM sound? He said the points I had wavered around at 4500 RPM and he junked them. Now, he said I could easily run 16-18 initial. Of course the distributors from Faron always come back looking brand new. Can’t wait!

If you guys would like his contact info, let me know. His price was significantly lower than most other places I've reached out to and his work is top notch. Yes, even those Mopar ones need to be curved/tuned.

He's one of those old cranky dudes that won't touch Chinese parts. So if you bought a Mopar distributor, then he may/may not do work for you.

All distributors need to be fine tuned, even brand new "high performance" ones.

[kawahonda]

Before/After.

I also made my own collar out of brass. Took about 15 minutes and a trip to Lowes.

Thrust play is .007".

[Cudakiller70]

Looks good!