Best way to go with my 440 build

[70RTSE383]

Hi, it's been a little while since my last post. Making progress on my 70'RT. Bought a 71 440 from a family that had aquired a ton of mopar big blocks over a 30 year period. This one was a forged crank 4bbl likely out of a New Yorker. It was complete with needed accesory brackets for ac etc. i have taken it apart with the exception of the rotating assy. I am now at a point where I am looking into what to do about pistons, rods and crank. I am not looking for something to take to a track but a stock appearing car that can set me back in my seat and hold its own. Will use the 727, origional ac etc but want a lot of torque. Have read conflicting info in overhaul books on wether or not the stock origional rods are ok or not. The crank and block are fine with me as long as they pass magnuflux. Given that and It needs to run on 91 octane gas, will initially use 906 heads and maybe aluminum aftermarket heads later what should I do? Expensive aftermarket rotating assy, pistons and rods only or just pistons? Those that have been down this road before please give my your thoughts. Thanks John

[RUNCHARGER]

IMO: There are two ways to go. You use your stock crankshaft and rods and run a lighter, forged piston with a little higher compression height than you have now. Or if you want stronger/newer rods you go all the way and buy a complete stroker assembly with crank, rods and pistons.

[70RTSE383]

Thanks rc. Do you think or have you experienced the strength or lack there of with factory rods 8)i

[RUNCHARGER]

The trouble with the stock rods is that you have no idea how many rpm's they've seen. I broke quite a few 440's until I quit using the heavy forged six pack pistons and started lightening them (then later just bought lighter pistons). A good idea is to put high strength rod bolts in the stock rods but that will require resizing them and you start to eat up the savings of using the old parts.
The engine in my son's truck has a who knows how many miles 69 440 in it. We honed it, put in a Lunati Camshaft, Performer RPM intake and some ported 452's I did up. I guess he has about $1k into it other than the fuel injection. He has run the heck out of it for 4 or 5 years now but has the rev limiter set to 5800. The engine will outlast the truck I believe and it puts out an easy 450HP, most likely closer to 475.

[RUNCHARGER]

I also built a stock stroke 440 for my Road Runner just before stroker cranks became popular. My idea was a stock appearing 440+6 that was 100HP stronger than stock. Again a stock stroke forged crank, lightweight forged pistons, ported, big valve 915 heads and a sold lifter 528 camshaft. I had the rods resized with stronger bolts and it ran really hard. Most likely more than 500HP but I never dynoed it.
If you were sticking with iron heads I would not consider a stroker unless they were ported properly. If you may consider aluminum heads later I think I would utilize a stroker crankshaft (then I would most likely run a set of 240 Trick Flows as well).
It's never been easier to make enough power to break the block on these 440's.

[Chryco Psycho]

The tq of a stroker is unreal even with iron heads , just a flat curve from 2200 - 5300 rpm , I agree with RC that you need to port the heads or use better heads for peak performance
I really like the 512 CI in a 440 block , it has a great rod ratio & still removes 7 lbs from the rotating mass so it revs much quicker

[303 Mopar]

Here are the specs of my 505 stroker and the rear wheel numbers off a dyno run.  This thing just pulls for days.   

https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/505-stroker-parts-list/26/msg108#msg108

[Chryco Psycho]

 
Yes it does 

[70Barracuda]

I went with 440 source kit, Sidewinder heads and a mild comp hyd cam using stock rockers and pushrods.

Going to cost as much or more to rebuild the 906's then buy new.  I think I am $1700 into ported, bowl matched heads w new bolts and cam.  Marsh Performance builds the heads to your combo.  Truly ready to bolt on.

The sound of a BB stroker is addicting.

[70RTSE383]

Thanks for the info much appreciated. The main reason Im thinking about the 906 heads I have is they were rebuilt in the mid 90's with new valvetrain parts. They ate on my 383 now but are the least expensive option for the time being. I guess next step is get pricing on reconditioning the rods bistons crank regrind and balancing the assy. Does anyone have an idea what a good price for this would be?

[Chryco Psycho]

The cost of a stroker kit is similar to the cost of reconditoning the crank & rods & buying new pistons brgs & rings
, you can get everything new for approx the same $$ but the pistons will be much lighter & the engine will work better

[70RTSE383]

I think you convinced my CP.
Thanks