Camshaft for a street hemi?

[Meyer]

426 crate mopar performance
bored 0.30 over
10:25:1 comp
Je forged pistons
H rods
Manley valves
iron heads
Tti headers
Msd pro billet with 6al box
Mopar dual plane intake for single carb
850 street hp
3:55 rear gear
4 speed

It has a solid roller with sportsman edm solid roller lifters in it now ....

Let me know what you think of the specs

[Chryco Psycho]

I don't even have to look at the specs just the brand !!
Topcat used a Bullet cam , I like Lunati too , they will design a real Hemi cam for you

[Meyer]

So no one knows anything

[Cuda Cody]

I use Mr. Six Pack (mr6pk@hotmail.com) designed Hemi cams.  I think they are fantastic for street Hemi cars.

[Flatdad]

So no one knows anything

You'd like to know what folks think of your proposed cam, that's impossible to answer without the context of what you expect to do with the car.

Everyone has different standards of performance, idle characteristics, durability expectations, maintenance, time between rebuilds etc.

There's also the question of what you intend to do with the car. Shows only, weekends only, street strip use, daily driver?

I'll attempt to volunteer an answer with the information available, based on my own mild "street car" standards. I like to get a lot of miles out of my stuff so my knee-jerk reaction was "seems like a lot of lift and stress on the valvetrain". If it were mine & I was dead set on going with a roller cam, I'd probably go with a hydraulic roller with similar specs, but maybe .530-.550 lift.

I hope you stick around on the forum & we'd love to see pictures of your car.

[Chryco Psycho]

Care to share your Bullit cam grind @Topcat  ?

[Topcat]

I don't even have to look at the specs just the brand !!
Topcat used a Bullet cam , I like Lunati too , they will design a real Hemi cam for you

It's a great Cam for a 472 Solid lifter

[Topcat]

i would like to add @floorit426 his thoughts on this  as well.

He's been around Hemi's for quite a while.   

[floorit426]

I'm running a Clay Smith, solid lifter, cam. I have to dig, to find the specs, but I remember in talking to George Striegel at Clay Smith, that he ground a cam with a lower than normal degree of lobe separation (see excerpt from their website, below). The theory being that it would take away a little low end, which I wanted, in a street motor. Apparently, it works. The car is not a real tire shredder, but it does run a 12.40 quarter mile. I am in the process of tuning my motor down, so I'm reading this thread, with great interest.

"While most of our customers know what lift and duration are, most have no idea what the term Lobe Center means, or how it affects the engines performance. Therefore the biggest obstacle to overcome when selecting a cam profile, is selecting the Lobe Center.

Lobe Separation or Lobe Center is simply the distance between the peak opening points on the Intake and Exhaust lobes. A 110-degree lobe separation means that the peak opening points of the Intake and Exhaust lobes is 110 degrees apart. Lobe Separation or Lobe Centers is another way of expressing the Valve Overlap, which was the term formerly used by cam manufacturers. Overlap is the amount of time that both valves are open in the same cylinder. All three terms are similar, as they all relate to the relationship between the centerline of the Intake lobe and the centerline of the Exhaust lobe.

Simply put the lobe center of the camshaft controls where the power curve is applied. The tighter the lobe center, the lower the rpm range; the wider the lobe center, the higher the rpm range.

A cam with a 112 lobe center will idle smoother than a cam with a 110* lobe center, while a cam with a 108* lobe center will idle rougher.  A cam with a 112* lobe center will generally have a smooth idle, a cam with a 110* lobe center will be a bit lopey, while a cam with a 108* may have a rough or choppy idle.

Tests have shown that, for a given cam profile, a tighter (smaller) lobe center will produce more average horsepower and a quicker revving engine.  However it is at the expense of a small amount of bottom end power and idle quality, due to the increased overlap. In reality, a cam with 220º at 0.050" and a lobe center angle of 112º will have the exact same mechanical overlap as a cam with 217º at 0.050" and a lobe center angle of 109º.  If you compared these two cams side by side in identical engines, the first cam would actually have a slightly better idle and would produce slightly more peak power at upper RPM's. The second cam would have a rougher idle, produce more torque and would rev quicker.

Also another thing to think about is Inches of vacuum, This may be of concern if you have vacuum assisted accessories, such as power brakes or steering. A cam with a 112* lobe center will pull approximately 16-20" of vacuum, which is good for power brakes. A cam with 110* lobe center approximately 14-18", is borderline. However a cam with 108* will only pull 12-16", which is not enough for power assisted accessories. These numbers can vary a few inches one way or the other, depending on several other factors and your individual engine specifications, so you may want to check your vacuum once the cam is installed.

If you do not have enough vacuum you can install a vacuum canister or reservoir, which works by storing the peak vacuum in the reservoir. If that's still not enough, then as a last resort you can use a vacuum pump.

When degreeing in the camshaft, you are making sure the intake centerline is precisely where the cam is intended to be. This is very critical for manifold vacuum, throttle response, emissions, and gas mileage. If the intake valve opens too early, it will push the new charge into the intake manifold. If it occurs too late, it will lean out the cylinder and greatly hinder the performance of the engine. If the exhaust valve closes too early it will trap some of the spent gases in the combustion chamber, and if it closes too late it will over-scavenge the chamber and take out too much of the charge, again creating an artificially lean condition. If the overlap phase occurs too early, it will create an overly rich condition in the exhaust port, severely decreasing the gas mileage"

[RUNCHARGER]

I'd try that Comp Cam, Specs look good to me, a heck of a lot better than the dismal factory baby camshaft that's for sure. But to me it's a Hemi and I don't want an idle and tractability of a slant sicks. If you're not happy with the performance, then it would be time to change up the intake (my personal choice would be a Stage V with dual 800 AVS', or better yet injection).

[Topcat]

After market cams for Hemi's are higher lift and with that; requires bigger diameter Springs.
Exhaust side is super close to hitting valve cover inside already.

So be certain to get Bee Hive Springs to avoid rubbing thru.

[Chryco Psycho]

The problem with Specs is it is only a snapshot of the opening & closing point on the lobe it has nothing to do with the shape of the lobe & Comp cams are always poor performers in Mopars , I would make a better decision & spend hard earned $ only once 

[Meyer]

It is the cam it has in it now... and its only making 8-10 hg wacuum ,since its a solid roller cam everyone says it wont last in a street driven car. The motor has only 3000 miles on it since rebuild, i dont want it destroyed, But wont go low on cam so its a 400 hp hemi....!

I want to swap to solid flat tappet like they had from the factory... bullit cams send me one they would recommend @ 050 duration 250 int 258 exh 
Lift 565/547
112 lobe separation
109 intake lobe center

Its a 4 speed 71 cuda with 3:55 rear gear

[Meyer]

Its a shaker so not all intakes would fit

[Meyer]

Pic of the car