Carter AVS Lean Spot

[kawahonda]

Cool. I'll plan to get some .015" soldering wire and make it go in about 3/4" or so.

[Chryco Psycho]

you should be able to pull a single strand out of 16 or 18 ga stranded wire

[kawahonda]

I just scored some from a friend! .015"

Just a "hook" at the end I suppose is all she needs. Have it go into the air bleed around an inch or so?

The good news is when I get to tuning this weekend, I'll have everything on-hand.

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes just hook the end so it cannot fall in or out !

[kawahonda]

It will need more of a hook to keep it from coming "out" though. Maybe I'll just "wrap" the end around the booster. That will secure it.

[Chryco Psycho]

sure

[kawahonda]

Fired it up.

Warming up now.

Rich right off the bat just from a metering rod change....

Letting it warm up. I don't think air bleed mod is necessary.

[kawahonda]

Alright. Got it nice and hot and performed these changes. I used the .063 x .060 x .051 rod. The .065 x .064 x .055 was replaced. I also upped my secondary jets to .098 over .096.

First off, it idled rich without any adjustments. With the mixture screws out 3 3/4 turns, this is to be expected. Good so far!

I achieved highest idle/best vacuum at 3 turns from out with new needles. I kept my timing at 13 initial, which is a bit low for my recurve.

Drove it 6 miles. Stopped and went. Stopped and went. I probably looked stupid, but for the life of me I could not get it to hesitate or stall anymore. I got on it a few times and did not experience any "rich" signs ("bog" or rich stumbles).

Success. It does not need the idle bleed mod.

Next steps:

1) Get timing back up to 15-17 degrees, right before detonation.
2) Start leaning accelerator pump. First try second position with .043. If bored/have too much time on hand, install factory .033 and try that out.
3) Get to spark plugs to monitor change over time.

[734406PK]

Awesome job! Congrats! Readjust the idle speed and mixture screws after the timing change then check the plug color after some use, should be tan. 

[kawahonda]

Thanks. My dizzy guy said to not touch timing If speckles are present.

I still may go up a degree. I always need to understand limits before you can understand optimal.

Basically, time to hone in on the pumpshot next.

[734406PK]

Quote:
Thanks. My dizzy guy said to not touch timing If speckles are present.
He is a wise man, old school i suspect! FYI, speckles WERE present bit since the mixture change, things are different now.

I still may go up a degree. I always need to understand limits before you can understand optimal.
I Agree!

Basically, time to hone in on the pumpshot next.
Sure, check the limits, this is how tuning goes.

[kawahonda]

Idle mixture screws don't seem to need to much adjustment (if any) from a small timing change (it seems).

I raised it to 15 initial. I hear some very faint, intermittent pinging at full load. Took about 10 minutes to discover the pinging at this setting (with just me in the car).

So I lowered it to 14 initial. Will test that setting tomorrow.

Got some new Champion plugs. Once I determine a timing setting with NO pinging whatsoever, then I will change plugs.

Then it's time to play with that pump! I'll probably just move arm to the center hole and probably stop tuning from there. Not sure if the effort is worth it to install the .033" when everything seems fixed! Who knows...I like toying with stuff. Nozzle size: Timing. Arm position: Volume.

btw, STILL NO stumble anymore.

[kawahonda]

14 initial seems to be the ticket. No pinging, so I'll leave it there and monitor.

I moved the pump to the second position and reset the height.

Went for a drive and didn't notice any "negative" change. Maybe it was more "snappy", but that could just be a false perception. So I'll keep it there for the time being. I don't see a reason to go lower than the .043 nozzle at this point--that may just be playing with fire.

There is no doubt that I picked up power down low from this change. Peeling out, doing burnouts is much easier to do now.

From a stand-still, if I SMASH the gas pedal ALL the way, 40% of the time it would perform as expected, 60% of the time there would be a micro-hesitation. This could simply be an adjustment of the air-door? I didn't try this "smash foot down 100% from standstill test" at the richest pump lever position but I don't think that would impact this test in any way. The lever position just changes volume, not timing.

There really isn't a use case where one would smash the pedal from a stand still. Drag racing you would hold the brake and raise the RPM to stall level. Same process for doing burnouts, just more brake.

So I'm not sure if it's worth "tuning" this part out, lol. But yea, I haven't touched my air door yet as I didn't really have a reason to...there is no hesitation from cruise to WOT. So I wouldn't really know how to "test" my air-door change.

Is there a way that I can give it more idle speed during warm-up? She basically is warming up at about 500ish RPM, which is a bit too low.

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes there is a fast idle cam , a rod from the choke plate runs down to it & there will be a screw that rides on the can to raise the cold idle rpm
Congrats on getting it mostly tuned up

[kawahonda]

Best method to play with that? I suppose wait until it's cold, remove air cleaner (for access), then fire it up, run over to engine bay, and start tightening that small screw on the driver's side that's underneath-ish?

Regarding the WOT from idle "micro" stumble (that i'm really not motivated to get perfect), I think that's best solved by an AFR gauge to save time/money. Again, I don't know of any use case that requires the driver to floor the pedal from a stand-still without any brake action. Would be interesting however though if the "wire" idle bleed mod could probably solve that. Keep in mind it doesn't do it every time. So IDK...?

It's amazing how much better this car drives now. Since I'm adding a 408 stroker motor soon with yet another AVS carb, I think it's best to call it quits here--but definitely raise the fast-idle speed. This is ready to hit the drag strip and can run consistent runs each time. Guessing 14.8 ET.

Keep in mind, the "testing" that I'm now talking about is not "drivability testing". I've since moved on to "reckless driving ticket" find-a-place-where-no-one-is-around testing where I have to be careful.   Not a bad tuning job so far, eh?