Choppy during cruising, but accelerations without any issue?

[Chryco Psycho]

Generally I agree , I good running / well tuned engine will not respond to a coil change or ign change too , BUt if you do change the coil use a higher output coil such as a MSD Vibration coil putting out 60kv +

[kawahonda]

SOLVED IT.

Timing was off. Set dwell at 33.

Set timing at minus 5 BTDC.

Smooooooth. No choppy. I can't believe it. all with old points, condenser. Reinforces to NOT just start replacing stuff.

I tuned both air screws best I could on the Carter. It holds at 15 vacuum steady. Not able to get more with my limited experience. I installed a missing intake manifold bolt. Retorqued the rest.

I should retorque head bolts. I got 1/4 turn movements for intake bolts at 35 ft lbs.

This is a diamond in the rough car. Can't wait for Wild RT to give it a new pair of shoes....

I still need to spray starter fluid. Have not done that. But for now, she's a daily driver!

[RUNCHARGER]

Sounds great. I am sort of rethinking points lately. The electronic stuff starts better and runs better, however the Chinese electronics also leave you stranded whenever they feel like it. You can always file a set of points to get you home.
When I run electronic I buy two boxes, one to keep in the glovebox, that goes with MSD lately as well.

[kawahonda]

Even though my car is very original, I still am considering going electronic, maybe over the winter. Better starts and no maintenance makes it a given. You may even gain a little bit of power. Not a fan of the distributor location on the 340 challenger either...takes some great stretching techniques to dial the points in. Also sucks that you cannot adjust the dwell while the car is on.

All of my bikes have points, except for the one CT70 that I converted. I like points OK for things that are not driven often.

[kawahonda]

I'm a little bit out of order, but that's OK because I'm learning. Lots of experience with 60s/70s motorcycles is kicking over, so I'm excited to be working on this 340.

I bring good news.

So I decided now to actually check the RPM. Yes, should have been done FIRST thing, but whatever! She was idling at 600 RPM (HOT) which is way low. The book says 900 RPM. I find 800 RPM to be a happy medium where the engine sounds happy and you hear a little lope. 900 just sounds a bit hyper-smooth for my tastes...well not really, but 800 just sounds "right". My opinion. I did take a vacuum reading at 900 RPM and I got 17".

At 800, that brings the vacuum to 16".

So now I'm at 16" vacuum, from whatever low number I was a few days ago. Pretty easy stuff so far, and we're knocking this healthy 340 where it should be!

Time for the spray test!

Spraying the carb-to-intake connection causes RPM/vacuum drop.

Spring the intake to engine connection causes RPM/vacuum drop.

Those two gaskets should be replaced! Like I mentioned before, I would consider retorqing head bolts. Why not?

I ordered new points, cap, rotor, condenser and timing tape. This time around, I will actually do the "full process" and check advanced timing. Probably will do a quick carb rebuild and re-seal intake manifold prior. I don't really think the carb is the main culprit here...I may not even touch it at all.

I have 2 weeks before this goes to the Mopar tranny guy. I may not want to bite off more than I can chew. At 16" vacuum, even with some carb/intake leaks, she runs pretty well.

Hope you guys are enjoying! I went from 13 to 16 vacuum in about two days. I have line-of-sight of what needs to occur next to get this 340 punching teeth.

1) Remove and clean distributor. Replace condenser, points, cap, and rotor. Get it damn nice.

2) Remove intake manifold. Clean.

3) Torque head bolts

4) Install intake manifold with new gaskets (paint).

5) Remove carb. Replace carb-to-intake gasket. Torque appropriately. I don't even think carb should be rebuilt any time soon!

Re-check vacuum. That may gain another inch or so.

What Hemi orange paint do you guys like to use? I want something that holds up.

[Chryco Psycho]

\head bolts do not need to be retorqued , you can only get to 1/2 of them anyway ,
Checking intake torque is one of the things I check everytime I tune an engine

[kawahonda]

Raised timing to 12 BTDC. It pinged under decent acceleration. Lowered it to 9.5. Minor pinging only on very hard acceleration and was getting hard to hear. I'm now about 8, have not tested yet. Should be all I can get away with for now. Will have distro recurved by my disto expert friend over the winter and then plop on new points/ignition pieces. No more ignition for now.

Next step is going to be removing intake and carb and applying new gaskets. My carb gasket kit from Mike came with a 1/4 wooden? gasket. That may help with the heat soaking.

My current vacuum is a steady 16.5 @ 800 RPM. I'm now approaching the green zone. I fully believe that new gaskets will bring this up a few inches of vacuum! I can hear a slight hiss and I know it's coming from either carb or intake.

Will do a compression test. I don't expect any surprises.

Other than that, she's gong to be ran as is until the winter! Lots of other fun things planned soon!

[nsmall]

@Cuda Cody are you connected to anyone who makes 2k hemi orange paint?  @kawahonda wants something that will hold up.  Eastwood only makes https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-ht-ceramic-engine-paint-chevy-orange.html which is chevy orange.

2k paint holds up way better vs a cheap rattle can   my

[nsmall]

Chrycho Psycho is a master tuner who can help you.  He helped me big time make my 340 run WAY better.

[Cuda Cody]

I've made small batches of it and just sending out my last 2 cans that I have in stock.  I might make another run of it soon.  Application is important so I've been meaning to make a video to go along with the paint so users can get the best results possible.

@Cuda Cody are you connected to anyone who makes 2k hemi orange paint?  @kawahonda wants something that will hold up.  Eastwood only makes https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-ht-ceramic-engine-paint-chevy-orange.html which is chevy orange.

2k paint holds up way better vs a cheap rattle can   my

[kawahonda]

Charlie recommended Totally Auto, but sadly they do not sell the paints anymore.

I can certainly use a two-part paint, no problem. Is there one that you guys have used in the past? Single stage, etc? PPG Code #? Can those withstand the heat? Can be used without priming?

Wonder if anyone has any experience with OER Engine Paint (replacement part for #P4349216)

[Cuda Cody]

Stay away from single part rattle cans.  If you have a gun I can get you some good paint.  If now, I can put it in a two part rattle can.

[kawahonda]

That would be awesome. Cody, I am gun-ready. PM me the details. I assume single-stage engine enamel that's heat resistant?

[kawahonda]

What do you guys consider to be a good vacuum reading for a bone-stock 340 at 8 BTDC?

[Bullitt-]

My stock '73 lower compression 340 pulls 21 inches at 850RPM idle...