Diaphragm Clutch

[Racer57]

When I got my car the clutch was basically fried. Called Brewers and got a new B&B and clutch plate. Installed it and could not keep from grinding gears. Finally pulled everything back apart and found that one of the fingers on clutch had not been set properly and was making contact about .125 before the other two did.  Called Brewers and they said they would replace it for free, but I had to pay the shipping. Shipping costs about as much as the frikkin clutch did. I bought a heavy duty Ram diaphram clutch and plate from Jegs and have not had any problems.

[Banana]

I just installed a Centerforce dual disk clutch and new flywheel yesterday. I just saw this thread......

With the stock pedal over-center spring and stock fork return spring installed with the new clutch, my pedal stayed stuck on the floor about 50% of the time I depressed the pedal.

I happened to have another fork spring, so I added it next to the other fork spring and so far pedal come back up 100%. But it's only been driven a few miles today.

The Centerforce literature that comes with the clutch says either:
- take out the over-center spring, or
- replace the stock fork spring with a "heavy-duty" one

Since doubling up the springs probably not a long-term solution, I'm calling Centerforce Tech to see what they recommend.

If I have to take out the over-center, I'll be asking you guys how to do that while it's in the car (I think putting shims in-between the spring while the pedal is depressed?)

[70 Challenger Lover]

That wouldn't be fun in the car. I've used the shim technique but only out of the car. I'd say pedal half way down would give you the most expansion. All the way down or up is not stretched as far.

[Chryco Psycho]

Lots of washers inserted between the coils at max expansion is the safest way to remove it , get a rev limiter , I have still seen the pedal stay on the floor without the overcenter spring . I would replace the clutch personally & leave the spring 

[BigmanjbMOPAR]

Sorry to re hash this older thread but Can anyone confirm for sure that the spring under the dash needs to be removed with a McLeod clutch? We are having the same issue - pedal not coming all the way up and this is causing a stall condition in some cases.

New to the 4 speed set up so bare with me.

We have all new parts from brewers, the z bar seems to be adjusted correctly and the spring on the clutch fork is new all clips and parts are new.

We do not know what to do  I see a lot of info for and against the over center spring removal just need to know what the correct way is so the pedal comes back up all the way and disengages.

Any and all help on this is greatly appreciated.

[dodj]

Can anyone confirm for sure that the spring under the dash needs to be removed with a McLeod clutch?

Old B&B three finger style, keep it. Newer diaphragm style, remove it. 

[usraptor]

Yes, I removed the spring when I installed a McLeod clutch. Otherwise, the pedal would occasionally stay on the floor.

[BigmanjbMOPAR]

Is it normal for the pedal to feel firmer now?

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes , the spring helps to depress the clutch pedal as well as pulling the pedal away from the clutch at the top so the release brg doesn't constantly stay loaded .

[Purepony]

Do a borg beck or invest the money and get the hydraulic clutch. That's what I'd do because if you don't like the diaphragm you'll have to take the trans out again