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Difficulty of resolving this transmission leak?

Started by kawahonda, July 12, 2018, 08:57:35 PM

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Ennist

Keep in mind that the drip/drop by the very bottom of inspection plate is a common area for engine oil leaks and in particular oil pan seal leaks to collect. I still have a drop and oil slick down there on mine. So, might want to make sure it's tran fluid and not oil.

I'm not sure about your tranny fluid loss, and I hope you figure it out. I actually just started checking mine recently, and thankfully it's good. I am pretty sure the guys that did my rear main had to drain/refill it. Now I'm concerned about what they filled it with, because I've been reading a certain type of fluid is required by our transmissions. Never had tranny problems with any car yet, except with a standard gearbox.

gzig5

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on July 12, 2018, 09:50:10 PM
First thing unbolt the trans crossmember & drop the trans down to get more room... Then remove the two levers...



I'm hoping to get after these seals this week. How far can the back of the tranny be lowered without breaking something?  It looks like it would be advisable to pop the distributor cap off.  I'm replacing the trans mount while I'm at it.

1 Wild R/T

Quote from: gzig5 on July 31, 2018, 07:43:30 AM
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on July 12, 2018, 09:50:10 PM
First thing unbolt the trans crossmember & drop the trans down to get more room... Then remove the two levers...



I'm hoping to get after these seals this week. How far can the back of the tranny be lowered without breaking something?  It looks like it would be advisable to pop the distributor cap off.  I'm replacing the trans mount while I'm at it.

Distributor cap & fan shroud, then you can lower the trans till the oil pan rests on the steering linkage....


kawahonda

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on July 30, 2018, 07:13:00 PM
:bigthumb:

Wild, I noticed that it only improves the 3 to 2 kick-down, and doesn't touch the 2 to 1 kick-down. So it would be weird to have different behavior depending on which gear you're in. May just be better just to expect to pedal to the metal it and focus on adjustments, seal replacement, and shift kit....
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

Quote from: Ennist on July 31, 2018, 06:14:10 AM
Keep in mind that the drip/drop by the very bottom of inspection plate is a common area for engine oil leaks and in particular oil pan seal leaks to collect. I still have a drop and oil slick down there on mine. So, might want to make sure it's tran fluid and not oil.

I'm not sure about your tranny fluid loss, and I hope you figure it out. I actually just started checking mine recently, and thankfully it's good. I am pretty sure the guys that did my rear main had to drain/refill it. Now I'm concerned about what they filled it with, because I've been reading a certain type of fluid is required by our transmissions. Never had tranny problems with any car yet, except with a standard gearbox.

It's definitely a shift selector leak. Fluid is red!
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

gzig5

Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on July 31, 2018, 08:39:42 AM
Quote from: gzig5 on July 31, 2018, 07:43:30 AM
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on July 12, 2018, 09:50:10 PM
First thing unbolt the trans crossmember & drop the trans down to get more room... Then remove the two levers...



I'm hoping to get after these seals this week. How far can the back of the tranny be lowered without breaking something?  It looks like it would be advisable to pop the distributor cap off.  I'm replacing the trans mount while I'm at it.

Distributor cap & fan shroud, then you can lower the trans till the oil pan rests on the steering linkage....

Excellent.  Thanks.

kawahonda

Alrighty! The Challenger is scheduled on the 14th at the local shop here in town that loves old Mopar transmissions.

Here's the work I'm scheduled to get done.

1) Shift shaft seal replaced

2) Trans go TF1 or TF2 shift kit. I've been reading lots of opinions on the internet. Most will recommend TF2 and said they'd never turn back. Some have said the TF1 is "not worth it". Does anyone have the right answer for me? Local Mopar tranny guy said the TF1 does just about everything the TF2 does and shifts very nicely. He said the TF2 is definitely firmer, and "some like that".

3) Band adjustment

4) All mechanical leakages adjusted

5) Removal of the dumb first gear 20 MPH limit!

6) New fluid, filter, pan seal

7) Inspection, of course. Will have him drive it give me some advice.

I'm not too sold on the partial kickdown conversaion. It only works from 3-2, and doesn't work from 2-1. I don't mind putting my foot to the floor!
1970 Dodge Challenger A66


1 Wild R/T

Do what you like, the PTK makes allot more difference then you realize....

kawahonda

Wild R/T, woudl love to hear more of your thoughts about it. For me, I drive the car mainly to 40 MPH top speed. Sometimes I get on the local highway at 60 MPH. While it seems the PTK would be cool for those cases, I'm just a little saddened that it doesn't work for 2-1. It seems like that's where it just all would ignite!
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

kawahonda

Could use some help. Need to order the PKD kit today so it gets here in time for the tranny guy.

I'm being given two options.

The 1967 option, which is the first version Chrysler used.

The 1971+ option, which is the more "sensitive" version. This is slightly more expensive.

They mentioned that either one will install in the 1970 valve body.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66

1 Wild R/T



kawahonda

Alright, it's ordered!

8) Later model PKD accessory!

Transmission should be real nice soon!
1970 Dodge Challenger A66