Difficulty removing axle wheel studs

[Felinity]

Hi - just joined a few days ago and this is my first tech question.  As it's axle related, I put it in Rear Ends, but I suppose it could also fit under Wheels, Tyres etc

I bought some E Body axles through ebay last year but didn't examine them too closely, except to make sure they were what the seller claimed and that they had no damage.  Now I have had a good look and have noticed that one has LH thread studs.  So that makes them from a 70 Barracuda /'Cuda or Challenger.  I didn't realise that 70 E bodies still had these so it was a bit of a surprise!  At first I thought, maybe they were from a 60's C body perhaps...  But then looked up this forum and found out after some research.  (BTW, this forum seems to have a superior Search function to many other forums I've tried...)

Anyway, I want to replace them with standard thread but want to still keep the LH studs as they are hard to find, espec Down Under.  Finding these axles at this great price on Australian Ebay was also amazing.

To get to the point, I am having no luck removing them.  Is bashing them out the only way or is there another more gentle way?  As I don't have any LH nuts to put on to protect the threads to give them a good whack, as we say...

They are in solid - I have mildly heated the flange to about 60 degrees and let oil soak in around them.  Using a solid brass drift and part of an old leather welding glove for protection during the bashing. 

I'm thinking a few drops of liquid nitrogen on the ends after mild heat to the flange might work...

You can also get electronic freeze in a can, used when trouble shooting circuit boards.  I'll have to look that up.

Will be interested in any ideas... Thanks.

[bdschnei]

Hydraulic press

[MoparLeo]

To protect the threads you will need to put a l/h lug nut on the stud and screw it down to be flush with the top. That way when you press/hit the stud loose, you won't damage the threads.

[Felinity]

To protect the threads you will need to put a l/h lug nut on the stud and screw it down to be flush with the top. That way when you press/hit the stud loose, you won't damage the threads.

I know, thanks.  I said I didn't have them (third sentence in fourth paragraph of OP)

I could order some but could take 2-3 weeks.

Going out to the shop soon to try again.

[blown motor]

I've hammered them out with an air chisel but again you need the nuts on to protect the threads. Perhaps you'll have to delay this until you get some nuts.

[RUNCHARGER]

You're losing the sharpness of the hit. You'll need a well supported surface that is higher than the axle. A large socket that is bigger than the size of the back of the stud to support it on the table. Maybe someone to hold the axle still for you when you hit the stud directly with a 5lb sledge sharply. You won't prong the threads if you hit it square and can dress them with a file if you do.

[Felinity]

You're losing the sharpness of the hit. You'll need a well supported surface that is higher than the axle. A large socket that is bigger than the size of the back of the stud to support it on the table. Maybe someone to hold the axle still for you when you hit the stud directly with a 5lb sledge sharply. You won't prong the threads if you hit it square and can dress them with a file if you do.

That's some good advice - I will try that.  Previously I just had the splined end on the concrete with some leather between.  I have some ideas to get it to that height.  But I won't be bashing the bare end with a sledge hammer until I can find some LH nuts.  Will keep mildly heating up to around 60 deg and keep using Penetrol.  The whole area is surface rusted so I don't doubt the splines would be solid.  There's also a heap of spray freeze products on the market, some are advertised as loosening fasteners, Eg Dy-Mark, CRC as well as medical sprays for wart/ticks removing etc.  I have no doubt they would be good at shifting the splined surfaces.  Thanks.

[dodj]

Support it like runcharger says and whack it harder. Don't worry about the threads you're going to toss them in the bin anyway.

[MoparLeo]

Duhhhh. You aren't trying to save the L/H studs, Right ?
Just get the new replacement studs and take everything to your local automotive service shop that has a press.
Or better yet, most larger auto parts stores have access to local machine shops for rotor/drum machining and bearing/stud press work. Buy your new studs/lugs there. Pay them to do it for you. Should be cheap and quick.
Also, what is the condition of the bearings and seal on those axles.?
Might be time to get that done anyway.

[Filthy Filbert]

Pull the axles out if they're installed.  Put a lug nut on to protect the threads, stand the shaft on end and smack it with a 2lb hammer. They'll pop right out.

[MoparLeo]

You can remove them with a hammer but install the new ones with a press. Don't try to use washers and a lugnut to install the new ones.
A sure way to damage the new studs by stretching them as the factory studs do not take much torque compared to modern metric studs.

[Brads70]

Big hammer and a aluminum or brass punch always worked for me.  Well supported of course .