Distributor shaft collar for “Timing spark balance weight”

[Cudakiller70]

Saw this posted by @Topcat  https://m.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Distributor-Spark-Scatter-Fix-340-440-383-Hemi-Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler/223111568847?_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1
On a thread  here https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/anyone-here-do-dizzy-rebuilds-and-recurving/8183/15#lastPost
Haven't heard of this before.
I've read that it's supposed to stop the cam oil drive gear from jumping up and down? Wouldn't this be a load on distributor if it's not designed for this?
Does it work? How do you set the depth correctly?
Same collar I could get at ace hardware? looks similar?

[Topcat]

The theory I believe is to keep the tip loaded with a little bit of weight so that

1. Oil shaft is kept thrusted down
2. Tip weighted keeps constant PSI in slot eliminating any spark timing variation.

Depth just like in picture. Just slightly above.

My timing is Rock steady even with the bigger Cam.

[Chryco Psycho]

it will still put pressure on the dist bushings to stop it rising which are usually loose

[Cuda66]

I can see it will make at least 50HP by steadying the shaft and making it run off balance.  Works even better when you wave a chicken foot over it as your installing and add 3 bat hairs and 1 eye of snake to the oil.

If your distributor is loose in the slot just tap on it with a small hammer and spread the tang a little to tighten if up, don't jam it in the slot it needs to move up and down easily.  There's a thrust washer between the housing and the shaft collar to set the end play but .020 to .050 is fine.  I've seen uncountable numbers of Mopar distributors with 200,000+ miles on them and the thrust is just fine.

There's reasons for the timing mark to jump around but I've never stopped it with one of these CON-traptions (Pun Intended)

"watch closely, you will notice that at no time during my entire act will my nose leave my face"

[Brads70]

I can see it will make at least 50HP by steadying the shaft and making it run off balance.  Works even better when you wave a chicken foot over it as your installing and add 3 bat hairs and 1 eye of snake to the oil.

If your distributor is loose in the slot just tap on it with a small hammer and spread the tang a little to tighten if up, don't jam it in the slot it needs to move up and down easily.  There's a thrust washer between the housing and the shaft collar to set the end play but .020 to .050 is fine.  I've seen uncountable numbers of Mopar distributors with 200,000+ miles on them and the thrust is just fine.

There's reasons for the timing mark to jump around but I've never stopped it with one of these CON-traptions (Pun Intended)

"watch closely, you will notice that at no time during my entire act will my nose leave my face"

   Usually Eburgs stuff is pretty useful but I gotta say I question this one?

[Burdar]

The old racers trick was to just put a length of rubber hose on the end of the distributor shaft.  It does the same thing.  It keeps the oil pump drive from bouncing.  If the end of the distributor shaft doesn't bottom out in the oil pump drive, it could bounce.  Since the teeth are cut at an angle, any up/down movement changes the timing.  The problem with the hose is that it eventually breaks down from being in constant contact with the oil. 

I put a collar on my engine when I had it apart.  I also added another shim to the distributor to tighten up the end play.  Finally, I peened the end of the distributor shaft so it wasn't loose in the oil pump drive.

[Cudajason]

I can see it will make at least 50HP by steadying the shaft and making it run off balance.  Works even better when you wave a chicken foot over it as your installing and add 3 bat hairs and 1 eye of snake to the oil.

If your distributor is loose in the slot just tap on it with a small hammer and spread the tang a little to tighten if up, don't jam it in the slot it needs to move up and down easily.  There's a thrust washer between the housing and the shaft collar to set the end play but .020 to .050 is fine.  I've seen uncountable numbers of Mopar distributors with 200,000+ miles on them and the thrust is just fine.

There's reasons for the timing mark to jump around but I've never stopped it with one of these CON-traptions (Pun Intended)

"watch closely, you will notice that at no time during my entire act will my nose leave my face"

   Usually Eburgs stuff is pretty useful but I gotta say I question this one?

That is why I tried it, Eberg seems to know his stuff.

I have run it for years.  I saw my timing bouncing at idle.  My distributor was in decent shape.  I installed the collar and saw pretty steady timing at idle.

Pretty cheap to try.

To set the depth correctly, install the collar on the shaft, just tight enough that it will stay where it is, but can still move.  Install the distributor and make sure it  is fully seated.

The collar will slide up to the correct depth.  Pull it out, tighten it down and you should be good to go.

Jason