found my ignition problem

[Chryco Psycho]

I know that's why they have main stud girdles 

[1 Wild R/T]

Yup... And they do help...But they to have limits.... Back n the 80's you couldn't hardly hurt a 440 block.... Hemi's yeah, 440's no.... Not enough flow from the heads.... Thats changed...

[Shane Kelley]

Larger camber aluminum heads might be your best solution. You will still be able to run 11-1 on 93 octane. But that really only works with aluminum.

[jordan]

I trying to figure out what I am going to do.  I think I will buy some 110 octane gas, and do some testing.  Best case scenario is that I finally get to drive my engine to its capacity.  The too high compression will be proven if it doesn't predetonate like it does on pump gas. Especially if I just got my ignition sorted out.  I can change the timing to 36* on race fuel instead of the 33* that I have to run on 93 octane.  If it all tunes in, then I should just get new pistons.  Running race gas will get expensive quick and it will be a pain in the butt to find when Im on the road.  Once I get it sorted out on race gas, I will let you guys know when I pull the motor and put street friendly pistons in it.   Im sure I will be asking advice on piston choices soon. 

[Chryco Psycho]

33* is borderline If it will not ping , often peak power is 34-36*

[jordan]

If I keep my foot out of it and grandpa drive it home, I will be fine at 33*  I just ordered up a few cans of "race gas" to try it out.  If it works, great.  I can always work the blend ratio to get it close.  If it doesn't work, then I will try real race gas.  Then I will check on pistons.  That will be easier and cheaper in the long run. 

[Strawdawg]

Torco used to work for people.   I have heard the racegas.com works as well but I don't known anyone personally that is using it.

[jordan]

OK guys, I have been doing some work.  I didn't want to say much until I got it figured out so I wouldn't jump to conclusions, or have anybody or any product be blamed for the issues if it wasn't really the issue. 

I got my car home from the shop that said nothing was wrong with my ignition (Rev-n-Nator box, coil, and ballast) and said my compression ratio was too high.  I decided to test out my CR by adding some octane booster "Race Gas" in a can.  I increased my octane to 101 and then went for a ride around the block with my foot in it.  I kept playing with timing to see if I could get it to run great.  I did get a good pull, but then I couldn't restart it hot. Never was consistent, and backfired, or fell flat. So I gave up on octane, and turned the timing down until it would easily start hot.  I got up the nerve to call my engine builder to say that so and so said there is nothing wrong with my ignition, and that my CR was too high.  He said "BS", that the CR is 11:1.  He then offered to let my try out a chrome box or a MSD.  First he wanted me to change the plugs, test the voltage to the coil (12.5V), and move the coil from horizontal to vertical.  I said moving the coil is 50:50 opinion.  He said to do it.  So I did.  I made a bracket and hung it on my passenger inner fender in the vertical position near the alternator and ran the stock coil wire to the distributor.  I lengthened my wire harness and rewrapped it.  I fired it up and it idled very smooth.  It starts easy hot or cold.  It runs out to redline with no missing or run ability issues.  I have been loving it!!  I burned through most of that tank of 101, and put 93 back it.  With diluted octane booster in the tank I am assuming it is around 94 octane.  Not too different than pump gas.  Tonight I took it to my friends shop to start advancing the timing.  We initially checked it and it was super retarded.  Full advance was 20*!!  So we got it up to 30*, and took it out for a flogging.  It ran really hard and strong all through 3 full gears.  This thing hauls a**!!  We will do another bump up on the timing after I get through this tank and get it to fully 93 ocatane, and after evaluating that there are not problems.  I am hoping to get it up to 32-34* with out detonation.  I am beside my self with giddiness because of the way this car is running. 
     So in the end, since I am mostly back to 93 octane, I have only changed the spark plugs, and remounted the coil to the vertical position.  I am assuming that the horizontal coil position was the problem.  My previous coil had died earlier this year.  R/T Garage replaced my ignition box and coil under warranty, and recommended the ballast change .  I cannot say anything but great things about their customer service.  What a great company.   My engine builder recommended to change the coil location, and it didnt cost me anything.  I would have never thought to try that.  Now I am on the bandwagon with the vertical mounting of an oil filled coil. Im keeping the Rev-n-Nator system.   

     Finally, I got the car I always dreamed of having.  This might actually get me in trouble.  I am so ready to race something!! 

[Cuda Cody]

That is fantastic news!!!!  Way to go man.    

[RUNCHARGER]

I always ran Chrysler coils horizontal with no problems but these last few years and using MSD coils I have had problems and mount them pointing up. It looks ugly but it seems to be necessary with the new coils.

[jordan]

I am curious to see the responses.  Thanks Runcharger for validating my changes.  Have many of this group found this to be the same for them?  Does anybody else mount their coil vertical?

[73440]

 I am using the RevNAtor with an MSD epoxy filled coil PN 8222 mounted horizontally with no problems.

[jordan]

I am no expert, but the epoxy filled coils are not influenced by position as much as the oil filled ones.  I am using the oil filled coil supplied by R/T garage that is matched with their ignition so it works at optimum specified by the manufacturer. 

[Burdar]

I didn't think the epoxy filled coils were recommended for street use.   

[Shane Kelley]

Both my cars started eating up MSD Blaster2 coils. Both mounted sideways in factory brackets. Called MSD and Summit about possible problems and if a ballast resistor was needed or not. Both showed no big return rates on the coils and hadn't heard of any issue. I'm thinking it might be my situation that I had them for a while so they are not getting returned. After some interweb research from other Mopar guys the Blaster2 doesn't work on a Mopar in factory position. Could be the case with some other oil filled coils as well. Oil leaks out and coil overheats. I had one blow the top apart. The epoxy filled one is what everyone is using with no problems so far. As far as running a ballast resistor. I run a chrome box and Mopar Performance mechanical advance distributor. They said it's only needed if you run points. When I blew another coil I put a resistor in the system. Didn't matter. Blew another coil. Now that I have switched coils I removed the resistor and have had no issues to date.  I did some research on the ballast resistor and what I found was Chrysler used them to keep the coil from overheating. Pic below are both Baster2 coils. I just painted one black and the other is the new epoxy filled one.