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Gas boiling in carb

Started by Mark_B, July 22, 2020, 03:40:47 AM

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Katfish

Get the Edlebrock insulator gasket, helped mine a LOT.
I have fuel injection now and kept the gasket on there as insurance.

Mark_B

Thanks for the information.   Just bought the Edelbrock 9266 insulator divider.  Hope it fits my 1406 Performer.

HP2

Something I've never understood about old Mopars...they are hotter than Hades under the hood, even if the coolant running through them is under 190. They always seemed hotter than nearly any other engine bay I'v stuck me head into.


kawahonda

Even just the thicker flange gasket from Mike's rebuild kit helps a lot. Don't really need a "insulator"-only type named gasket as the only means to heavily solve this issue.

1970 Dodge Challenger A66

Rdchallenger

Quote from: kawahonda on July 24, 2020, 03:33:47 PM
Even just the thicker flange gasket from Mike's rebuild kit helps a lot. Don't really need a "insulator"-only type named gasket as the only means to heavily solve this issue.

Whos?

MoparLeo

Anything that is non metallic that you use as a spacer under the carbs' baseplate is an "insulator" since it it not transferring the heat directly from the manifold to the carburetors' baseplate. To check clearance, put some type of flexible material ( don't want to dent the hood) like clay, Silly Putty etc on the top of the air filter housing ( on a piece of paper so it doesn't stick to it) and slowly close the hood. Just like checking valve to piston clearance. Current ethanol mix  and Summer fuel blend fuels do have lower boiling/evaporating temperatures. Funny that some people don't like electric fuel pumps when every car made in the last 30-40 years comes with one. Just needs to be installed properly. That alone can solve many problems.
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

kawahonda

Yep, the gasket that comes with Mike's carb kit is simple a 3/8" paper/composite gasket, and like what MoparLeo said, it acts insulator.

It solved the problem for me.

Pretty sure that gone are the days where you can stick a thin paper gasket under a carburetor for today's fuels. I'm a proud mechanical fuel pump owner, too. You will still have "evaporation.", but that's hardly an issue. Crank car with gas pedal held down 20% of the way, and it will start in short time after a hot drive.

Boiling off is entirely different and not acceptable. Been there, done that.
1970 Dodge Challenger A66


Mark_B

I'll post up when it's fitted and say if it worked.

Quote from: HP2 on July 24, 2020, 12:41:27 PM
Something I've never understood about old Mopars...they are hotter than Hades under the hood, even if the coolant running through them is under 190. They always seemed hotter than nearly any other engine bay I'v stuck me head into.
Yep.  Never made this problem on my 69 Mach 1 or 72 Mustang.

Mark_B

I fitted a phenolic spacer under the carb and it seems to have worked.

Also fitted wider jets and new needles too.

Thanks for your help.


FSHTAIL

I run non oxy fuel and don't have these issues anymore..   
No more hard starts, good to go. 
1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)

6pack

Find a gas station that sells NON-ETHYL gas at the highest octane available and with what the others gave as advice on heated lines and such along with your spacer your good to go.  Way good.  We have 91 NON ETHYL here.  The 10% alcohol is no good for small engines also makes a world of difference and no more trips to the small engine repair shop making them very rich.  I have many muscle cars and what a world of difference.  The ethanol gas is why it boils and why you smaller engines like weed wackers generators and chain saws won't start.  Pulls in water out of the air.  Go online and find out where they sell it near you.


Racer57

Quote from: 6pack on August 08, 2020, 11:40:00 AM
Find a gas station that sells NON-ETHYL gas at the highest octane available and with what the others gave as advice on heated lines and such along with your spacer your good to go.  Way good.  We have 91 NON ETHYL here.  The 10% alcohol is no good for small engines also makes a world of difference and no more trips to the small engine repair shop making them very rich.  I have many muscle cars and what a world of difference.  The ethanol gas is why it boils and why you smaller engines like weed wackers generators and chain saws won't start.  Pulls in water out of the air.  Go online and find out where they sell it near you.
I've never had access to anything other than E10. Everything from chainsaws to a 1976 GMC C70 2 ton truck always start without issue. Both will sit for several months at a time. Plus all of my "modern" vehicles have never had anything else in them.  I am not saying the gas without ethanol isn't possibly better to use, but I don't believe that E10 thats been used since the mid 70's is as evil as some people make it out to be.

Scooter

My car stays at 180... does not overheat. Prior to installing the 1/2 phenolic spacer, after shutdown you could pop the hood and literally hear the gas boiling off in the carb. And this is with a Holley Demon carb with a composite body that is supposed to keep the fuel cooler. If I only let it sit for a few minutes it would fire right back up. If it sat longer after running.. I had to crank and re-prime the carb before it would start. Electric fuel pump cars likely have less issue. Adding the spacer is a no brainer if it fits... 15 minutes work and problem solved. Additional plenum volume as an added bonus.  :alan2cents:

FSHTAIL

Take some lightly balled up tin foil and put it on top of your ear cleaner as it sits now, shut the hood, let it sit for a few seconds, open hood, see how much space you have

Quote from: Mark_B on July 23, 2020, 10:42:03 AM
I'll buy and phenolic spacer and see if it does the trick. 

Anyone know if a 1" phenolic spacer fit under the hood with the standard air cleaner and R/T hood.
1973 BS23H Cuda' 340/TKX 5 speed (70 AAR clone-ish)