How to solve heat soaking for hard re-starts

[Bullitt-]

Use the the thick one for Carburetor only, save the thin one for if you add a thermal spacer.
Bolts are standard.... if you add a thermal spacer you will need longer bolts but some folks prefer to switch to studs..

[Racer57]

I've been having some issues when its hot out with my 383 Shaker. Had it on lift last night and noticed that the stainless fuel line coming from the tank is being held by clips that hold line tight against the frame near the engine. Frame was too hot to touch near exhaust manifolds so I'm going to attempt to bend the clips so that fuel line doesn't touch the frame. Maybe get some rubber fuel line and cover the existing in the area where its hot.

[1 Wild R/T]

I've been having some issues when its hot out with my 383 Shaker. Had it on lift last night and noticed that the stainless fuel line coming from the tank is being held by clips that hold line tight against the frame near the engine. Frame was too hot to touch near exhaust manifolds so I'm going to attempt to bend the clips so that fuel line doesn't touch the frame. Maybe get some rubber fuel line and cover the existing in the area where its hot.

http://designengineering.com/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving/

[Bullitt-]

 

something like this may do you more good... Factory used similar on my 240Z
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-350136-1/overview/

[gzig5]

In case you have not used a digital timing light, here's video on YouTube that shows how easy it is to adjust them to just the zero mark.  Start the video around 9:20 and you'll see a quick clip on it.  I'm sure there's better videos out there but you'll get the idea.

I got the Innova that Cody shows in this video and I think it works pretty nice.  I can set a desired advance on it and then adjust the distributor until the mark lines up on the 0 and I'm there.  If you have points, I think it will do dwell too, but I've got electronic and haven't used that function.  Also shows voltage and has a tach which are nice additions.   

The digital pro model is ~$95 and worth the purchase in my opinion.  https://www.amazon.com/Innova-5568-Pro-Timing-Light-Tool/dp/B000EVU8J8
I'm sure there are others that do the same thing.

You may want to verify that the timing mark on your damper is accurate.  The outer hub can slip and be off quite a bit. Still does it's damping job, but screws your timing setup.  Mine was off 2 degrees.  Verifying zero is very straight forward using a piston stop in the spark plug hole.  I made mine from an old spark plug but the are commercially available.  I wanted the piece of mind that it was accurate when I was having issues setting my timing up and now I can move forward with confidence.

[kawahonda]

Thanks guys. Yeah, I'll use the thick one. That may actually improve things and keep the carb cooler. Currently it has a thin one that's leaking.

One thing that I was thinking about is that right now, my mufflers make direct contact with the exhaust tank (the flange part, of course). That probably helps to heat up the fuel too.  Maybe not.

[Brads70]

I've been having some issues when its hot out with my 383 Shaker. Had it on lift last night and noticed that the stainless fuel line coming from the tank is being held by clips that hold line tight against the frame near the engine. Frame was too hot to touch near exhaust manifolds so I'm going to attempt to bend the clips so that fuel line doesn't touch the frame. Maybe get some rubber fuel line and cover the existing in the area where its hot.

http://designengineering.com/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving/

Same idea but I used black so it didn't stand out like a sore thumb.... Bought a spool of it when I was building my car. You could also use it to protect spark plug wires...
https://www.cableorganizer.com/fire-sleeve/

[Strawdawg]

Be sure to block off that exhaust heat if it is not blocked already...that would be number one on my list

[kawahonda]

That's Steve.

I'd like to know more about blocking off the crossover port. I do have a Fel-pro kit that I bough, I will check to see if the gaskets block the port. I've read some things from some anti-bodies regarding doing it. They mention these points, which I'm not saying is true/false, just wanted to share and get your guys' take:

1) The heat buildup for this issue isn't mostly coming from the cross-over port. Putting a spacer/shield does more than blocking the cross over.

2) Cross over ports are there to help vaporize gas for better mixing.

There are times I will drive the car when it's high 30s. Probably won't be driving it when it's low-30s (near freezing). Still a good idea?

FYI, just checked my Felpro kit. It does not have the cross-over block. Who makes a damn good gasket with it already built in?

Assuming this is good?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance/312/P4452101/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710532996&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=aud-194566579511:pla-177199793831&CATARGETID=230006180003463483&cadevice=c&jegspromo=thirdparty&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-o_bBRCOARIsAM5NbIMu20DIOSk1pzadPftUAQAiqyajbtp_ZHyU3v9ypRrLLG_xmcAVwlEaAvHMEALw_wcB

[73440]

I've been having some issues when its hot out with my 383 Shaker. Had it on lift last night and noticed that the stainless fuel line coming from the tank is being held by clips that hold line tight against the frame near the engine. Frame was too hot to touch near exhaust manifolds so I'm going to attempt to bend the clips so that fuel line doesn't touch the frame. Maybe get some rubber fuel line and cover the existing in the area where its hot.

http://designengineering.com/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving/

I went with a spacer and the DE heat sheath over braided fuel line and that helped a lot in Texas summer heat.

[kawahonda]

Replaced wimpy carb gasket with 1/4 "wooden" one.

Amazed at how easy it starts up hot now....

[Chryco Psycho]

I am glad it worked , take a look at Coolcarb spacers they are awesome

[Topcat]

On a hot soak situation you have the fuel boiling but the vapor is trapped so it doesn't escape, the whole intake & air cleaner area gets to be a super rich mixture... But the fuel bowl is empty cause all the fuel boiled away....

Trying to start it hot? Your best choice is wide open throttle to get enough air in the fire the super rich mixture but chances are it won't fire till all that has been purged.... And when it does fire? Well the fuel bowl was empty but now fuel is pouring in so it may or may not stay running....


[/quote]

And I have discovered this as well.

So before putting her down to rest, I let her cool down, hood up.

An hour or two later, fire it up just for a minute  then shut her down.
Bowls are full and less evaporation occurs so it'll start easier next time.

Even after a week later, I can see a difference on less effort to start up.
2-3, 5 second cranks vs. 6-8, 5 second cranks.

Very true on a hot soak.
A hot run and shut down and then a half hour later she needs WOT burst to start on a hot day.

[1 Wild R/T]

California's gasoline sucks..

[Topcat]