I would like to be able to fry my tires (Trick Flow and Cam)

[nsmall]

Hey out there.  So I would like to up the fun factor.  Car currently goes 0-60 in under 5 seconds.  My 340 is fairly stock.  Previous owner built it so I dont have all the details.

I am currently thinking of buying some trick flow heads.  I currently have J heads with (apologize if I am saying this wrong) some valve work done so they were sent to a machine shop so I think the number is 2.02 now.  I also was thinking of increasing the size of the cam.  Mine is basically a stock cam.  My compression ratio is around 9-10.  Lets guess at 9.5.  Engine is bored .40

Will new heads and a new cam be worth it?  My goal is to break the tires loose without power braking the car.   Right now thats not happening.

I have a slapstick 727 with a stock torque converter.  Car makes a lot of power at 2800 on, I am assuming this is common in 340s.

I am also entertaining the idea of setting up a torqstorm super charger, but all the extra costs for that route are going to get expensive fast.

Any opinions out there about finding power without going to a stroker?  I want to fry a set of tires and get out some quarantine rage.

Thanks in advance

[DeathProofCuda]

What kind of gears are you running?

[1 Wild R/T]

Bigger cam will make more power at a higher RPM while killing low end torque, are you sure the cam is close to stock??   As mentioned what gear, 340's can be soft down low but they like to spin & more gear makes a 340 happy...

It would be interesting to know the true C/R...

[DeathProofCuda]

Yeah a bigger cam and new heads are really probably the last thing you want to do if your goal is tire frying.  Both of those changes are gonna give you more power at higher rpm, not low end grunt.  Cheapest bang for your buck will be a gear swap, after that just put a 440 in it. 

[RUNCHARGER]

I was thinking convertor and yes what gears are in it?

[DeathProofCuda]

I was thinking convertor and yes what gears are in it?

I was going to modify my post and also suggest a converter swap, but Sheldon beat me to it.  So 

[Chryco Psycho]

He has the 4 valve relief pistons so it should be 10-1 compression , 1800 stall & I believe 3.23 gear IIRC
I suggest a 2500 stall converter first , the cam is likely OK but it would be good to know what it is , You can't lose with the Trick Flow heads but the Converter would be my first change .
Or build the 408 stroker !!

[nsmall]

3.55 sure grip. It had 273 and yes the new gears upped the fun factor.   I was told the cam is on the bottom end of stock.  I guess I will pick up a set of 410's.   But seriously I do like the 3.55 as I do use the freeway.

I should just bite the bullet and buy a stroker.  It aint cheap to go fast.

[RUNCHARGER]

Hmm: No, I would leave those gears. How tall are the tires?
How is your tuneup? Is your advance curve in the distributor optimized?
If carb and ignition are dialed in then I would change the convertor.
The only problem with changing the convertor is if you change it and it isn't enough and you decide to upgrade the engine then that convertor won't be optimum. The camshaft and convertor are a delicate balance and work together.

[Burdar]

Go drive the car and note what RPM the converter is stalling at now.  A converter change would probably be less work then a cam change.  If the current cam is small, you can go up to something mild while still retaining your driveability.  A bigger cam will want more stall so...if you do the converter change first, you'll be set with the cam swap down the road if you decide to do it.

[gzig5]

A cam (and long tube headers if you don't have them) are going to give you the best bang for the buck.  Torque converter in the 2500-3000 range would be a slam dunk too.  Steeper gears will definitely help but could negatively affect highway cruising if you go too far.  The TF heads are a win/win if the cost doesn't bother you.  They will increase power across the RPM range and the cam can either focus it on top end or a more balanced grind will focus on the low/mid range.  2.02 J heads with an appropriate cam and a quality converter should send your car back to the tire shop for new rears on a consistent basis.  Everything needs to be balanced. Don't forget the induction system either.  TF heads with a OE cast iron intake wouldn't be an efficient combo.

[7212Mopar]

Tick flow heads in a stroker motor, deadly combo. 

[nsmall]

2.02 J heads with an appropriate cam and a quality converter should send your car back to the tire shop for new rears on a consistent basis.  Everything needs to be balanced.

You get it, yes I want to go buy new tires.  That was a good one.     

I have TTI headers and an RPM Air gap.  My tune up could be improved runcharger.  I am a history teacher, I have a lot to learn about cars.  Rear tires are 25.3 inches tall.

Burdar.  Its a stock convertor, binds up at 1800 RPM.  Even if that is not stock, I am certain that is the RPM where it is binding up.

Thanks for all your ideas folks.  I love my car, but most of my joy is found when I floor it and I want more tire smoke.   

[gzig5]

You should be able to get them going pretty good with what you have if the tune is good, but a 2500 rpm converter would get you in the power band better.  Supposedly the new converters from good aftermarket suppliers can have a higher stall speed but still behave well in street driving applications much better than years ago.  PTC converters is one that comes to mind from talking with a friend.

[Burdar]

I was just looking at converters on SummitRacing.com yesterday.  Looks like there are more options for a 727 like you have then a 904 like mine.  The 727s are cheaper too.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/torque-converters?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&N=transmission-type%3Atorqueflite-727