Is this the right way to test the ballast resistor

[blown motor]

The resistor is only two or three years old, which I know, means nothing when it comes to ballast resistors. But here's another point, do they get a ground to the firewall when they're mounted. On mine the mounting screw in the middle of the resistor is a hair loose in the hole. I think the hole has gotten worn over the years and the bolt won't tighten down. If it needs to be grounded then my ground will be poor to non-existent.

[dodj]

It needs to be isolated from ground actually Murray. You will notice the resistors are encapsulated in ceramic to accomplish this.

[madmax2b]

Use an ohm meter.

[blown motor]

It needs to be isolated from ground actually Murray. You will notice the resistors are encapsulated in ceramic to accomplish this.

Yes that's what I figured. I just wanted to be sure.

[blown motor]

[/quote]
Well, both shouldn't test two ohms either. Did you have all the wiring off?
But seeing as you brought up having a dual resistor on the PW, you could have just swapped resistors to confirm/deny  that was your issue.
[/quote]

Yes I did have the wiring off.
As far as switching resistors, I can and will. Just haven't done that yet. I've been wandering down this other path and asking questions as a way of learning and trying to understand all this stuff better. I appreciate everyone's input.

[Bullitt-]

  Actually a bad resistor wouldn't prevent the engine from starting..
As long as the key is turned to the "Start" position the resister is bypassed, only after releasing the key & it returns to the "Run" position is the power to the coil routed trough the resistor, at which if it were bad the engine would die.

  You can always put a jumper wire from the + battery to + coil terminal to determine if the issue lies before or after the wiring to the coil, distributor and ignition box.
 

[Rich G.]

Are you working with electronic ignition? A lot more going on than just the resistor on a no start. ( I didn't see what you were working on)

[blown motor]

Yes, electronic ignition.

[dodj]

Actually a bad resistor wouldn't prevent the engine from starting..
As long as the key is turned to the "Start" position the resister is bypassed, only after releasing the key & it returns to the "Run" position is the power to the coil routed trough the resistor, at which if it were bad the engine would die.

  You can always put a jumper wire from the + battery to + coil terminal to determine if the issue lies before or after the wiring to the coil, distributor and ignition box.

Yup, this happened with me a bunch of years ago. At the time I was new to fixing cars and was pulling my hair out wondering why the engine fires then immediately stopped when I released the key.
 

[dodj]

Saw this online Murray. Factory resistor. Not saying the resistor is your issue, but thought you might like to have the pic.
I'm sorta thinking you have a coil or ecu issue. Bullitt's last suggestion will point you in the right direction.

[chargerdon]

If you have the original factory Electronic ignition it is probably a 5 post ECU.   You can change it out with a 4 post ECU and that eliminates part of the 4 post resistor.   

Strong battery and wiring connections are a must.   The factory design is poor in that during the "start" cycle the voltage drops normally to about 9 Volt, then the resistor can lower that voltage to even lower.   If the voltage to the ECU drops below 6 volt it wont fire the coil !!   

If your car isn't firing try this.   Turn the key to the "run" position not start.  Then put jumper wire at the starter relay to cause the starter motor to engage.   This will allow the full remaining voltage to the ECU without the resistor in line.   I've done this many times on my 74 with electronic ignition to force it to start !!  Then check all of the connectors going thru the bulkhead connector... to correct the problem.