Rebuilding a 4 speed

[70 Challenger Lover]

I plan to yank the engine and transmission on my next day off and I have been debating on whether to do anything with the transmission while it's out. When I bought the car a few years back, the seller had already rebuilt the engine but not the transmission. Just a new clutch. It shifted well when I drove it but it's covered in grease so guessing it's never been gone through. As much as I hate to spend more on this simple project, it just makes sense to get it right before I throw it back in.

My question is, has anyone here rebuilt their own transmission? I'm wondering how difficult it is or if special tools are required. If it's simply a matter of disassembly, clean and press on new bearings and switch out a few new parts, I'm game. On the other hand, if the process is complicated and requires precise internal adjustments like a rear end, I'd rather pay a pro on this. Not crazy about spending a huge wad of dough on it if I don't have to. There are other areas of the car I'd rather spend the budget on.

[70 Challenger Lover]

Just read a couple how to articles and it doesn't look that bad. Looks like snap ring pliers and an alignment tool are about all that's really needed.

In checking with Brewers website, looks like they offer a nice kit but synchronizer stop rings are extra. I thought these were typically replaced in a rebuild. Is it normal to inspect and reuse or just replace?

[Chryco Psycho]

I have done many 4 speed rebuilds , you can make a countershaft tool , the snap ring pliers are a must
I always bought rebuild kits that included new syncros

[edison1970]

My friend and I did a few. The main tool that most people don't have is a press. Most is cleaning and inspecting parts for wear. Get a factory manual.

[70 Challenger Lover]

Brewers sells the tool for $8 so easy decision there. Sounds like I should just buy the synchros though to be safe. I do have a nice press and also some bearing removal tools for the press. I'm actually kind of looking forward to trying it. Always been interested in giving it a shot.

[edison1970]

I didn't think it was that hard.

[Rich G.]

If it ain't broke don't fix it. But if you want to this is a pretty good book to read. I learned the hard way when I thought I could just pull the tail shaft off in the car to replace the rear bushing. I can't tell you how sick I got when it moved about an inch and all I heard was needle bearings falling to the bottom of the trans. And of course the tail shaft I found out doesn't come apart like that! Not that hard to do once you learn a few tips. No real special tools, snap ring pliers and some wheel bearing grease to hold the needle bearings on the shaft and the most important thing is a nice work area to lay things out as you take it apart.

[RUNCHARGER]

I agree, it's pretty easy. If it's quiet and shifts nice I would probably leave it alone though. Just clean it up well. A manual transmission won't suddenly spit it's guts out and leave you stranded like an automatic can. They will give you clues and when they do it's pretty easy to pull them out.

[anlauto]

You're not restoring the car so why rebuild the transmission ? Just clean it up, maybe some new oil and a way you go 

[dodj]

Just read a couple how to articles and it doesn't look that bad. Looks like snap ring pliers and an alignment tool are about all that's really needed.

In checking with Brewers website, looks like they offer a nice kit but synchronizer stop rings are extra. I thought these were typically replaced in a rebuild. Is it normal to inspect and reuse or just replace?

I have done only one. The one in my car. It was, I thought, pretty easy. That was a few years ago and it is still working!
Get a 12" piece of 3/4" EMT and it will make loading the roller bearings easy.

[70 Challenger Lover]

So my plan on this R/T was to simply get it back on the road by doing the proper front end sheet metal repairs. The only reason I'm yanking the power train is I need full access to a shock tower as it's rotated up a couple degrees from an old collision. I did try to get creative and pull it down with bars and levers but it just won't remain in the right position. I could force it harder but I think the best solution is to gain access, grind out the old shock tower welds and reposition it correctly.

So why rebuild? Well when I bought the car 8 years ago, it ran and drove extremely well but the old front end metal repairs were downright scary so I only drove the car a couple miles around town at slow speed. The transmission seemed fine and shifted well but two miles of light driving wasn't a very convincing test. I was willing to roll the dice if it never came out but since I am pulling it out, it makes sense in my mind to do it all right now so I never have to look back. I'm not concerned anymore about ruining anything and the rebuild kit is a small price to pay. Especially since I have less than 10k into the car so far. Not really trying to create more work for myself but I'm that type of person who can't reinstall something that's dirty.

[JS29]

@70 Challenger Lover I would suspect the frame rail might be tweaked if your shock tower is rotated. you always have to over pull a little when it comes to frames.  you my want to measure things out before you cut anything apart. the car may have to go on a frame machine. I would have to see it before making any judgment calls. but i thought i would through it out there.    

[Chryco Psycho]

I have never used a press to rebuild them
there is a tool for replacing the rear bushing with only the slip yolk out

[70 Challenger Lover]

@70 Challenger Lover I would suspect the frame rail might be tweaked if your shock tower is rotated. you always have to over pull a little when it comes to frames.  you my want to measure things out before you cut anything apart. the car may have to go on a frame machine. I would have to see it before making any judgment calls. but i thought i would through it out there.   

Good advice and I definitely appreciate it. I have another post started months ago detailing the damage I found as I started working on the car. In short, there was damage to the front 8" of both rails and someone poorly attached a whole new radiator support from a donor car. While they did a lousy job cosmetically, the replacement fenders and hood matched up. All gaps including door gaps looked good. The car actually drove straight, looked straight, and the front wheels even had the correct camber. The inner fenders had been crunched in the front and straightened but I decided I wanted new ones on there.

As I worked on the car, I set it on rails and measured everything. It all checked out great. I did not check the shock towers though until I noticed a fitment issue on the left inner panel. I jury rigged a really stout way of pulling the shock tower and at one point the inner panel did fit perfect. It just wouldn't stay. The amount of force needed to get it that far was extreme so I decided not to go farther.

I agree that a frame shop could probably make short work of it but I'd like to tackle everything myself.

[jimynick]

It would be rare for the apron to roll over, taking the shock tower with it and still be able to align the car.  If the alignment specs are within tolerance, then perhaps either only the upper portion of the tower has moved or, and this is more likely, the apron has issues, new or not. Just my