Remove sheared off transmission fitting

[tparker]

The rear transmission line fitting sheared off flush with the body of the transmission. I tried to get it out with a extractor but it doesn't budge and I done want to break it off in there. I was thinking of heating it up but brass expands faster than steel which seems like the exact opposite of what I want. Any other tips besides trying to drill it out and trying to knock it out with a small chisel? Ugh.

[pschlosser]

If that's the transmission cooler line fitting, be aware that is the rear one is the RETURN fitting, so any crud that falls further into the transmission may be forced to wash through the valve body before being filtered.  Not good at all.  If you don't plan to drop the pan and valve body, stuff the hole with cotton or something you can remove, later.

I don't know how bad off the breakage is, a picture may help us help you better.

If an easy-out wont work, you may be looking at using needle files and/or a dremel tool to work it out of there.  Were the transmission out, and on a bench, it may be easier to do the surgery. 

If the breakage is what I'm visualizing, I've had success extracting by grinding down some cheapo harbor freight flat blade screw drivers to a width allowing it to wedge and grip the inner fitting so it can be turned by hand using vise grips on the screwdriver shaft.

[tparker]

I pulled the tranny out so I can deal with it easier. It is the rear line, here's a pic. Not much to see, it's broken flush, actually just a bit lower than flush. I put a lot of force on the easy out and I'm pretty sure any extra torque and it will break off. I am not sure I understand the screw driver thing. I don't see how that will grab anything. The Easy out grabs just fine but it still won't budge.

So I am thinking of drilling it out but am concerned with the shavings. Does anyone know if I can access this area easily to either block it off or clean it out after drilling it out? I thought it was in the main body but the second video seems to show it might be accessible in the tail shaft area.

Any thoughts?

[Katfish]

I'd cycle it with heat and cold, while spaying it with PB Blaster and give the easy out another try before drilling.  Need to heat cycle it a few times to let the lube work.

[tparker]

Yeah, drilling was a last resort. BUT i was able to get it out with some heat from a propane torch. Heated it up a bit then wrenched on it. I though the extractor would snap but it didn't. Just about when I was ready to give up and try head one last time it budge. Yay.

A couple notes in case someone else reads this post. I bought a many point socket that would fit on the end of the square drive of the extractor, but the teeth were so small it just stripped out. A GOOD 12 point socket MIGHT do the job but I doubt it. I ended up using a decent crescent wrench to give me the leverage. Apparently they do have square drives for taps. I would probably recommend that

also others have side the typical EZ Out screw extractor works by wedging itself into the material and applies lots of lateral pressure. This can cause the softer brass to expand tighter into the threads. They recommended a square extractor. That was my next thing to try.