Removing 340/883 from my Cuda.. tips?

[FSHTAIL]

My L5 is broken and I'm having numbness on my legs. 

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[Chryco Psycho]

If you need help I am happy to jump on a plane !

[FSHTAIL]

My fsm doesn't show the procedure for dropping the engine and trans out the bottom.   Am I missing something?

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[RUNCHARGER]

Not missing anything. The factory recommended repair procedure would be to pull it out the top. In your case I will go against the grain here and pull the trans out the bottom (with a big friend helping) and pull the engine out the top. I've done it both ways and have no problem with either however you are going to want it rolling in the end and I see less work that way. You would need to rent an engine hoist either way. I'm pretty sure I can pull a wedge engine faster out the top and you don't have to mess around pulling torsion bars and breaking balljoint connections, opening brake lines, disconnecting the steering column etc.

[1 Wild R/T]

Not missing anything. The factory recommended repair procedure would be to pull it out the top. In your case I will go against the grain here and pull the trans out the bottom (with a big friend helping) and pull the engine out the top. I've done it both ways and have no problem with either however you are going to want it rolling in the end and I see less work that way. You would need to rent an engine hoist either way. I'm pretty sure I can pull a wedge engine faster out the top and you don't have to mess around pulling torsion bars and breaking balljoint connections, opening brake lines, disconnecting the steering column etc.

Everyone these days say take it out the bottom, well I have & I agree it has it's advantages when doing restoration work.... But it also has it's challenges which you really don't need to deal with for what your doing..... Trans out the bottom, engine out the top....

[Cudamike]

I took mine out the top. Removed 4 speed first. Not hard at all.

[Shane Kelley]

They can both come out the top bolted together. Removing the lower crank pulleys gives a little more working room also. The motor is easier with no tranny on it.  But it's not much more difficult together. If the car was all painted and restored and you had to worry about a scratch that's a different sorry.  But his is on the way to the Bodyshop.

[RUNCHARGER]

I was thinking that too Shane: I would install it in two pieces but a smallblock pull should be no problem all together. An engine tilter would help or two chains. He's going to need a friend though with his back condition for sure.

[Jim AAR]

I agree, pulling it out the top and putting it back in bolted together is relatively easy.

Make the chain shorter at the front and longer in the back will give you a good angle to avoid hitting the firewall with the trans.

It makes it much easier with 1 or 2 friends helping you to guide it and 1 working the lift. Since you have the bad back, you should work the lift and let your friends guide it out.

I hate taking out the 833 through the bottom by itself, it is so heavy and even with a jack under it, it wants to roll from side to side, unless you have a tranny jack or rig something up to stabilize it.

I removed the 833 through the bottom by myself a few times, when I kept cooking my Release Bearings, until I finally replaced the Pivot and clutch fork because they were bent. Didn't know they were bent until I compared them too my buddies and ever since replacing them, I have never had a problem with the Release Bearing.

[1 Wild R/T]

I hate taking out the 833 through the bottom by itself, it is so heavy and even with a jack under it, it wants to roll from side to side, unless you have a tranny jack or rig something up to stabilize it.

I removed the 833 through the bottom by myself a few times, when I kept cooking my Release Bearings, until I finally replaced the Pivot and clutch fork because they were bent. Didn't know they were bent until I compared them too my buddies and ever since replacing them, I have never had a problem with the Release Bearing.

When I was a young stud  (Read Young & Dumb)  I pulled dozens of 4 spds by myself laying on my back...  Then I started using a floor jack, and yes the trans wanted to roll off constantly....  Wound up attaching a 2x6 to the jack cup & a couple straps to the 2x6 to attach the trans... Worked pretty good... Then I tried the job on a lift with a proper trans jack..... Never looked back..

[HP_Cuda]

I would recommending to drop it out the bottom and use casters to roll it around.

This gives you tons of flexibility when you are getting it painted and you can work on the kmember before it's done.

Here are some caster choices fyi:
https://store.uscartool.com/Car-Moving-Body-Wheels_c_10.html

Or you can make a setup like others have here (I did as well).

[jimynick]

Yes, you can take it out the bottom, but the bending and under car work should be considered. I pulled and later re-installed my engine/trans in one piece- out the top-and if you have a chain and engine crane, you can, too. We popped for an adjustable tilter and that came in handy. Pull the rad, take off the fan and it'll go out and in without touching anything if you're minding your manners while doing it. Good luck and having just got over a bout of back pain, please accept my wishes for a quick recovery. 

[FSHTAIL]

I talked to the body shop and for a fee, they said they'll pull and reinstall themselves.      It was reasonable.     I also figured this way after the engine compartment is all painted, if they scratch or ding the paintwork, it won't be a big deal for me because it's on them. 

I go for my consultation to a neurosurgeon on the 5th, I really want to get my spine fixed. 

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[RUNCHARGER]

Great solution. Good luck with the back, I fractured a couple of vertebrae and the pain is pretty tough.

[73_Cuda_4_Me]

FWIW... I removed my 340 w/auto out of the top, after removing radiator, fan, pulleys, and hood (used cherry picker and ratchet straps on hood) all by my lonesome, and with a back like this...

I've felt your pain... been there! Let them do it!