Rod bearings too tight

[Strawdawg]

I am of the opinion that it does unless you have VERY strong valve springs.  I believe it is 1300/1200.

Some like additives but it seems most oil engineers feel it can screw up the additive package and also that it tends to be corrosive unless changed very frequently. 

The CME stroker that I bought ten years ago or so came with instructions to use only high zddp oils and Classic was suggested.  I believe it claims to have 1600 zinc in it...not sure about the P.  I have a couple of cases out in the shop.   https://www.hagerty.com/media/archived/classic-oil/

For me, this would probably be about as good as it gets if I wanted to go first class and thought it would help.
                                   
AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil, our primary recommendation for classic cars and hot rods, contains more than...

1,400 ppm zinc
1,300 ppm phosphorus

[HP2]

Does Vr-1 have adequate zddp levels for a flat tappet cam?

Quote
" Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil: Contains 75% higher zinc than SN or SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and traditional applications. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40 and straight 60.
Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus: Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine instead of poisoning the catalytic converter. "

https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq

Although I found this confusing?
Quote
" Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or Not Street Legal racing oil?

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13 percent zinc and .12 percent phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil, which contains .14 percent zinc and .13 percent phosphorus."

I've used VR-1 with no issues in past engines, I've been using this now for years
https://penngrade1.com/

History... https://penngrade1.com/history/

Very cool, thanks for the info on VR1.  It appears the old Kendall I was used to has been resurrected as Penngrade1. Also very cool. Might have to pick it up again.

I am of the opinion that it does unless you have VERY strong valve springs.  I believe it is 1300/1200.

Some like additives but it seems most oil engineers feel it can screw up the additive package and also that it tends to be corrosive unless changed very frequently. 

The CME stroker that I bought ten years ago or so came with instructions to use only high zddp oils and Classic was suggested.  I believe it claims to have 1600 zinc in it...not sure about the P.  I have a couple of cases out in the shop.   https://www.hagerty.com/media/archived/classic-oil/

For me, this would probably be about as good as it gets if I wanted to go first class and thought it would help.
                                   
AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil, our primary recommendation for classic cars and hot rods, contains more than...

1,400 ppm zinc
1,300 ppm phosphorus

Nahh, my valve springs aren't that bad ass. 300# per inch, so at installed height with .550 lift, I should be around 160# at max lift.

I managed to talk with a friend of a friend this past week who was able to swing by this weekend with a mic and bore set. Checked things out with the precision instruments and the rods all measured out at .0016-.0017. Slightly more than the plastigauge read out of .0015, but not smack dab in the middle.  That does make me feel better that things are a hair bigger and the opinions here that it isn't a big deal similarly make me feel okay.  So, rather than stress about it, I'm going to run  it.

[ek3]

you will most likely be fine. one thing about modern engines with tighter clearances is the run-out. if the roundness of the crank journals are accurate, then that is where it is really at. just like the rods. the truer the machine work the better! the ability to [mass production] machine parts today versus 1970 is a prime example..